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Squeak
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May 12, 2019
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Perth West OZ
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 21
I just arrived at Skull Hollow Campground (site 21) Looking at heading to Smith Rock tomorrow. Can someone suggest some easy 5,6. _ 5.8) single pitch climbs. I can climb a little harder but I'm seriously out of climbing shape. And my wife(belayer) doesn't climb and is inexperienced. So a day of easy's would be perfect
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MIchael Plapp
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May 12, 2019
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Madras OR
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 5
Sport or Trad? There are a few sport routes in that range on the Southern Tip of Smith Rock Group. Morning Shade. Also the Monument base area.
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Squeak
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May 12, 2019
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Perth West OZ
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 21
MIchael Plapp wrote: Sport or Trad? There are a few sport routes in that range on the Southern Tip of Smith Rock Group. Morning Shade. Also the Monument base area. Sport, but single pitch trad would work only if the anchors are bolted or a walk off
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David Van Quest
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May 12, 2019
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Truckee, CA
· Joined Oct 2016
· Points: 95
Spend some time at the Rope de Dope Block
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Khoi
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May 12, 2019
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Vancouver, BC
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 50
Here are some sport and trad routes. All of the trad routes have bolted anchors.
ROPE DE DOPE BLOCK: - How Low Can You Go 57 - Rope De Dope Crack 5.8
SHIPWRECK WALL - Time to Shower 5.8
WESTERN SHIP - Purple Headed Warrior 5.7
MORNING GLORY WALL - Five Gallon Buckets 5.8
THE PEANUT - Hop on Pop 5.8 - Peanut Brittle 5.8
CINNAMON SLAB - Lichen it 5.7 - Right Slab Crack 5.6 - Easy Reader 5.6 - Left Slab Crack 5.4 - Night Flight 5.5 - Ginger Snap 5.8 - Cinnamon Slab 5.6
THE DIHEDRALS - Bookworm 5.7 - Bunny Face (pitch 1) 5.7 - Rabbit Stew 5.7 - Lycopodophyta 5.7
LLAMA WALL - Wannabe Llamas 5.8
PHOENIX BUTTRESS - Hissing Llamas 5.8
Phoenix Buttress and Llama Wall will go into the shade first, followed by the Cinnamon Slab area.
Have fun!
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Will Howard
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May 12, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2019
· Points: 10
The Rope De Dope block is nice because you can lead (sport) or top rope all the routes (ladder up the back side). I think the range is between 5.6 and 5.10c. It is almost always crowded though.
Picnic Lunch wall has some fun bucket routes that aren't as crowded as 5 gallon buckets.
Red wall has some good routes too.
If you want less crowds go to the backside (Spider-Man Buttress, my Little pony) or go up to the marsupials.
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Will McCarthy
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May 13, 2019
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Bend Oregon
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 0
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Kelley Gilleran
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May 13, 2019
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Meadow Vista
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 2,851
I thought this thread was about something else..
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Robert Hall
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May 13, 2019
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North Conway, NH
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 28,893
I remember my first time at Smith. I think it was on the "Peanut" when I decided to lead the 5.10 just to the right of the 5.8 because it seemed way safer. 5.8 moves 10-12 ft off the deck, with the deck being a rock/dirt ledge just aren't in my "vocabulary" these days. Later that day I bumped into a friend from the East that climbs at Smith a lot, his reply " Oh ya, you probably want a stick clip for a lot of the climbs." Act accordingly.
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mediocre
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May 13, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 0
Robert Hall wrote: I remember my first time at Smith. I think it was on the "Peanut" when I decided to lead the 5.10 just to the right of the 5.8 because it seemed way safer. 5.8 moves 10-12 ft off the deck, with the deck being a rock/dirt ledge just aren't in my "vocabulary" these days. Later that day I bumped into a friend from the East that climbs at Smith a lot, his reply " Oh ya, you probably want a stick clip for a lot of the climbs." Act accordingly. Well what’s worse, the 5.8 moves 10-12 feet off the deck on a 5.10 or the opening 5.10 moves 6-7 feet off the deck on the 5.8s on The Peanut? Best advice for Smith is to bring a long stick clip and stay away from The Peanut.
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