Revo for Rope Solo - part 2

(cross posted from Rope-solo climbing FB group)

(Note: I use an older super flexible 9.9 rope. I've found for the Revo, flexible is better than stiffer in relation to feeding freely)

This is a continuation of my first post on Revo for TR-solo which should be read first for the rational and background for this method. It can be found embedded in the Revo Spring Modification thread. This post is about using the rap-ring mode for following/cleaning a Revo lead. This mod is NOT NECESSARY for leading with the Revo. However it could be of potential benefit when cleaning/TRing a Revo lead.

Caveat - I'll get this out of the way up front - full information: This mod and method is what I’ve done for TR-soloing. I do not lead-solo anymore even though I did it for years. However, I see the potential for it to work well for leading to make cleaning/TRing more seamless. HOWEVER, I've not tested it on lead. If you decide you want to try any of this, proceed with caution at your own risk and report your results. I’m not encouraging you to do this but it’s what is currently working for me for TR-solo and has potential application to lead-solo. Know: your equipment; your method; your risk tolerance; your route; your goals; and how all these things interact - then decide wisely.

All indications are that it does not interfere with leading or locking up - if anything it provides less fiction and allows the wheel to accelerate quicker which produces the lock-up. During a fall in a lead situation, the wheel does not accelerate till there is tension on the rope coming from the last piece placed. When the tension begins, the Revo which is hanging down, will flip up and one strand will go up to the last piece of pro and one down (cache loop/back-up knot/rope bucket. etc.). It’s at that point that the tension on the wheel causes it to start accelerating and ultimately lock-up when it reaches a critical speed. However because of the design of the Revo, the strand of rope going down from the inverted Revo (now essentially in the same orientation as a TR-lock-up), will rub on the edge of the belay jaw which keeps it from accelerating as fast as it potentially could. With the rap-ring in place it no longer rubs on the edge of the jaw but on the “bearing" surface of the rap-ring which provides less friction and allows it to accelerate quicker. My prediction is that it will lock-up in the same distance or less than without the rap-ring. Proceed slowly and test. YMMV

In the previous post I shared how I TR-solo using the rap-ring to help it feed more freely and then how to rap efficiently and safely with the rap ring in place. These functions can benefit a lead-soloist if doing multi-pitch. However, it would be an extra hassle to put the rap-ring on/off between the rap/TR and lead cycles. Since the rap-ring shouldn't interfere with leading*, it’s better to just leave it on for everything - leading/rapping/TRing. This introduces a problem because in lead mode (leading from a rope bucket or from cache loop[s] on harness or backpack) there is nothing to keep the rap ring from sliding down the rope strands since both go down. In TR-mode, one strand goes up to the anchor so the ring is always held in place next to the Revo. This problem can be remedied by attaching a keeper cord to the rap-ring. There are two ways to attach it. Both are described further down the post. The keeper cord offers no advantage for TR-soloing except as a way to keep the rap-ring with your Revo. Functionally it is not necessary for TR-soloing.

NOTE: If you lead from a backpack and want a seamless lead experience with the rope feeding directly from the backpack through the device to the pro, then Joe Healy’s method using an Eddy is preferable. See his many threads where he describes his method. If leading from a bucket or cache loop(s), then the Revo is potentially a better option IMO.

The advantages of using the rap-ring with a keeper cord are:

1) Keeps the rap-ring with the Revo so the ring is always there and can’t be dropped or lost
2) Keeps the ring from sliding down the rope in lead mode since both strands exit the Revo and go down. The cord keeps it by the Revo jaws where it can act as a “bearing” surface
3) Saves having to put it on/off during the lead/rap/TR-clean cycle. It can be put on before climbing and left on.
4) If the second cord attachment method is used, the rap-ring can be easily removed for normal belay use.

These are the two methods I've used for attaching the rap-ring with a cord - on the left is the jaw mount and on the right side-saddle mount.

Method 1 - Jaw Mount
I attached the rap-ring to the Revo by pushing one end of the cord through the last vent hole in one of the jaws/ears of the Revo. Once through I tied an over hand knot and melted the end of the cord right next to the knot and pushed it as far back into the crevice as possible. I then put the other free end of the cord through the rap-ring and pushed it through the corresponding vent hole on the other side of the jaw and tied an overhand knot in it and melted the end of the cord. The tricky part is getting the cord as short as possible and then pulling on the ring once installed to tighten the knots. It’s important that both knots be tucked/pulled back into the crevice away from the wire bail that flips down during lock-up.

Method 2 - Side Saddle Mount
I threaded the cord through the drilled hole in the rap-ring and tied it into a loop. This is then put on the rap ‘biner on the harness and allows the ring to just hang flush with the belay jaws. The tricky part is getting the loop just the right size so that it doesn’t hang down excessively or too short that it bends the ropes path off to the side. (In the photos I tied the cord loop using an overhand knot. An overhand is easier to make adjustments on while the double Fishermans would be more secure and keep cord ends in-line with the cord loop. However it would be tricker to adjust to the correct length.

Drilling the rap ring for keeper cord

For both above methods of attaching the rap-ring to the Revo, I used a 2.5mm (or similar) accessory cord and a 3/32” drill for the hole.

• In a scrap of 2x4, I drilled a a close series of 7/16” holes until it formed the length of the outside diameter of the rap ring (~1 7/8”).
• I then pushed the rap-ring down into the slot so that it was held securely and drilled a 3/32” hole through the side of the ring.
• I used a drill press and held it securely against the fence. I drilled the hole in a series of short bursts withdrawing the bit each time. I also used cutting oil on the drill bit each pass to keep it cooler and to help carry away the aluminum debris.
• I finished by using the tip of a larger drill bit to drill a slight chamfer on the hole to get rid of the sharp edge. A Dremel tool and small bit could also be used.

As always, YMMV

Strong work; thanks for sharing.