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Foam vs Air Sleeping Pad for Alpine Climbing

Original Post
Daniel Melnyk · · Covina · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 50

What are your thoughts on closed cell vs air pad for alpine climbing? I like the small size of an air pad but have had reliability issues with them (Big Agnes and REI). I have a Z Lite, which is cheap and reliable but bulky.

What do most alpine climbers prefer?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Not only are the foam pads bulkier, they don't insulate as well (R value) and aren't as comfortable. But you don't have to deal with leaks in a foam pad!

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

If I could sleep on a foam pad that's definitely what I'd use, bulk be damned. Sleep is important. 

I usually bring a thin foam pad for breaks and just hanging in the tent, add a torso length inflatable to sleep on for comfort. 

Christian Edstrom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

If I’m sleeping on rock or dirt I use an inflatable.  Sleeping on snow or ice I layer an inflatable and a z-rest. 

Melanie Shea · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

Xtherm, the patch kit is quick if it comes to that. Even duct tape works for a few days on that material.

Todd Kreider · · West Lancaster, PA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 10

Big Agnes Q Series has changed my life - I'll never go back to foam

diepj · · PDX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Once you go inflatable you never go back. I was cheap/doubted reliability for a long time. But I’ve got several different thermarest models now and I’ve had to patch a pinhole once in an estimated 150 nights. I’m pretty careful but I never would have imagined being that trouble free. That patch has been holding for 3-4 years at this point. Add a foam pad underneath for longer trips on snow. 

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 222

At camp I'll use foam and inflatable, but on the route I'll only bring the inflatable. At 2.5 inches thick, RValue of 5.7, and only 15oz, you cant beat the Xtherm.

Logan Hugmeyer · · Salem · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 6
  • I like both depending on the situation. My Thermarest is heavy and old, 15 years or so but it still self inflates and is still inflated under me in the morning. I think there is a quality gap between brands sometimes. I used both on Adams a few years ago. I was super cold but I think that had more to do with the "tent" my buddy brought for us being more of an ultralight tarp than a tent... without a bottom... and open on 2 ends. But as far as pads go. If you're on snow or get cold easy bring both. Comfort and sleep matter.
Jason Schmidt · · Cache Me Ousside · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 15

Why not both? 

Sarah-Min Donahue · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 50
Greg Shea wrote: Xtherm, the patch kit is quick if it comes to that. Even duct tape works for a few days on that material.

Marine tape is my new best friend also.

diepj · · PDX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0
diepj wrote: Once you go inflatable you never go back. I was cheap/doubted reliability for a long time. But I’ve got several different thermarest models now and I’ve had to patch a pinhole once in an estimated 150 nights. I’m pretty careful but I never would have imagined being that trouble free. That patch has been holding for 3-4 years at this point. Add a foam pad underneath for longer trips on snow. 

I should clarify - I’m referring to several of the neos not the older heavy self inflators. Also love the bag that came with the Xtherm for inflation. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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