Best Offwidths in New Hampshire / Maine / Mass / New York

My girlfriend recently decided she wants to get into offwidths, like everything else she's touched in climbing i imagine she will be ok at it for a day or two then immediately crush everything we put in front of her.  Anywho, we now have some shiny wide gear and want to put it to use. What are everyones favorite wide cracks in the northeast?!?!?!

I know they are few and far between on this side of the U.S. but I would love to hear what you guys and gals think. What first comes to mind is some of the stuff at pawtuckaway, london bridges in acadia, some stuff on cathedral?

What are we missing, where should we go? would love to work our way up in the grades but I imagine they will get hard quick.

Thanks in advance!!

For Pawtuckaway, you have some good options at Upper Cliff:

- https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105941471/double-jam
- https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106949198/short-stuff
- https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107235878/yellow-zonkers

Theres one at Waimea in Rumney, and then also a circus trick invert at triple corners right if you're headed out for a day of sports climbing it may be worth bringing the rack.

Been a while since I've been climbing back East now...let me see.

Cannon Cliff in NH has Vertigo with the Half Moon Crack. It's four pitches up, though.

In the Gunks:
- Ventre de Boeuf  has a 5.10 OW variation and a squeeze chimney finish.
- Low Exposure, though that's really short,
- Disco Death March (which I've never been on...and may not climb as an OW at all)
- Baby (which I once heard described as a 5.6 that could ruin a relationship)
- Miss Bailey has a weird horizontal OW section and a bunch of chimneying

Esthesia in the Adirondacks has a wide section, though most people layback it.

Thanks for the question. That was fun to think about.

Never done any of these since I decided there are much more enjoyable climbing styles in the NE, but this is what came to mind:

Black Crack, 5.10 @ Cathedral
Bulletproof, 5.13 @ Farley, to the right of the pictured climber
The before-mentioned cracks at Pawtuckaway are very splitter

I think the Adirondacks has got some great OW. I remember the route 'Creation of the World' was featured in that old New England film 'Uncommon Ground'. Looks amazing!
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105871064/creation-of-the-world

Come out and visit Durango. There is a bunch of wide stuff within a few hours. 

Some in Adk's:
- Route of Oppressive Power in Wilmington Notch. Goes from chimney to hands in a long pitch. Great route if dry (shady side, slow to dry). FA Romano...
-McCarthy var to Fastest Gun
- At Silver Lake, Center of Progress:
      1) Connecticut Yankee has a wide section on the 1st pitch flake, not pure OW, but big cams and can use OW technique. This is one of the best 5.10's in the park ( 2 varied long pitches), and compares favorably to anything at Moss Cliff
      2) Sinner Repent is right next to CY. Haven't climbed it, but def wide
      3) Wasted Reprise has a 30' section that goes from about 7" to chimney. Good but hidden gear inside using a smaller crack (placed by feel). Heel and toe action.
          Pictured below (the bottom 1/2 is a good flake/crack)
       

Samuel13 wrote: Come out and visit Durango. There is a bunch of wide stuff within a few hours. 

Ha! How’s it going Sam, I bet you could take us on a wide tour!

Peanut Gallery on Cathedral.

BFK wrote: I think the Adirondacks has got some great OW. I remember the route 'Creation of the World' was featured in that old New England film 'Uncommon Ground'. Looks amazing!
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105871064/creation-of-the-world

do you know where one could see the film these days?

an earlier discussion: ​https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/109496834/best-offwidth-climbs​​​

Shell Pond Adam is mentioned in the previous link.

Surprised no one has mentioned Repentance, at Cathedral. If your girlfriend likes difficult things, she'll be in offwidth heaven at the start of the second pitch. And after you've done it, marvel that John "Tumbledown" Turner climbed  it 60 years ago with no gear at that crux.

There are a scattering of other good off-widths around the Northeast beyond those already mentioned. In addition to Bulletproof there are some other routes with wide sections at Farley such as Boys from Boston on the Upper Tier. There are also a couple around the corner at Rose Ledge--though most can be 'cheated' by using face holds. Further out in the Berkshires I recall a nice short off-width (at least for those of us with small hands) at the Reservoir Rocks in Great Barrington. If you are really desperate there is a pretty demanding wide section of "The Crack" in the Hadley CRG!!!

There are also a good number of wide cracks on the Upper Tiers at Poko in the ADKs--mostly Ken Nichols creations, and numerous other ones scattered throughout the Park.

Astro Boy (boulder problem) at Mt. Gretna.  it's about V6 (Wideboyz Grading, V10+ Shanti-Pack )

There is a short crag hidden in the woods  below   mt Willard, all off widths. Browns  fist  on cathedral, another at rumney at triple corner, walking the devil. New river gorge  has  a bunch  of offwidths.

Hewes Hill in Swanzey NH has a couple. Nice but short 5.8 on the Zig Zag buttress. Also an impressive 20 foot roof crack (5.12) (though not exactly offwidth) Crow Hill has a short, burly 5.11 offwidth on the left side of Fisherman’s wall. As others have mentioned... Bulletproof at Farley is amazing (and harder than I will ever climb)

Fun Adk off widths off the top of my head
Esthesia
Eternity
Boiler maker
Coffee acheivers ( short fun off width section)
Fear of flying
P1 of fastest gun
Sinner repent
Mr ribbons last stand
It don’t come easy p3
California flake p1
Gerionmo

june m wrote: There is a short crag hidden in the woods  below   mt Willard, all off widths. Browns  fist  on cathedral, another at rumney at triple corner, walking the devil. New river gorge  has  a bunch  of offwidths.

Do you (or anyone else) have more specific beta on this? I’m all about weird cliffs that are tucked away...

In the Gunks there is Veal in a Blender (10b) which takes #6s and #5s