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Which slings to buy

Original Post
Jesse ND · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

What slings should I get for general anchor building? Length, width, # of each. Overall objectives include multi pitch trad/alpine, but also some sport and top rope. 

I’m getting back into climbing again and have a few mentors lined up. I’d like to be able to use much of my own gear so I’m not relying on them to use all of their gear.

Thanks

Dan Cooksey · · Pink Ford Thunderbird · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

I carry BD 60 cm dyneema slings, for alpine draws (usually 6-12 depending on the route), and 1 big 240cm dyneema sling for my anchor.  Some (rightfully so) will use nylon for the anchor because it can absorb more of a shock load during an accident.

The Dyna are just the lightest thats why I like them.

Best of luck getting back into things, be safe, and have fun.

EDIT: Dyneema can be hard to untie.  The knots on nylon slings are much easier.  

Sawyer W · · NH · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

For multipitch sport (or anything with semi-horizontal bolted anchors) you can get a quad and two lockers

John T · · San Diego, CA · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

Incoming comments: "Use your rope."

Usually a single cordalette is enough for the main anchor assuming you already have some slings. Around 20 feet, 6mm (for alpine, long multi-pitch) is about as thin as you should go. Thicker is more durable of course, but heavier. Just make most of your draws into alpine draws with shoulder-length slings. You can also carry around 2 double-length slings. That's way more than enough to handle most situations. Plus you can use the rope.

Edits: My response was directly at the trad/alpine portion. In response to OP's addition about sport/TR, you can just use a double-length (120cm) sling. I prefer nylon because it is easier to untie.

Dan Cooksey · · Pink Ford Thunderbird · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365
Sawyer W wrote: For sport/tr get a quad and two lockers

Great suggestion.  

If you want to save money and buy multi-use gear, the large 240cm sling is great for a TR quad.  

It is also acceptable to use two opposite and opposed quick draws for a sport anchor.  If you are going to be gang banging a route all day with a lot of people, add some locker, or use the quad.
Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

Dude:  I climb 70% trad/TR and 30% sport. I LOVE Mammut Contact 8mm slings. The are light and rack nice in the Alpine draw config.

I use a long sling for trad anchors in place of a cordalette, Mine is a DMM 240cm nylon sling, it is really nice. I also have a few Sterling nylon slings in the 60cm length that I use for slinging trees/horns/chickenheads.

So my inventory for multipitch trad: 1 x 240cm nylon 1 x 240cm Dyneema 8mm, 12 x 60cm Dyneema 8mm for alpine draw, 6 x 60cm Nylon and 2 x 120cm Nylon (use for bolted anchors)

Nylon is nice because it is cheap and durable, but bulky. 

stolo · · Lake Norman, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 214

The Mammut Contact slings get fuzzy so fast, it is just the nylon banding. Other slings do not do this.

Black Diamond 10mm DYNEX RUNNERS or Trango Low Bulk 11mm Sling are preferable to my Mammut Contact slings. BD 240 is a hair heavier than Mammut.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
stolo wrote: The Mammut Contact slings get fuzzy so fast, it is just the nylon banding. Other slings do not do this.

Black Diamond 10mm DYNEX RUNNERS or Trango Low Bulk 11mm Sling are preferable to my Mammut Contact slings. BD 240 is a hair heavier than Mammut.

The CAMP 60cm Dyneema sling is very similar to the DB Dynex,  if you don't like the Mammut slings...

I am wondering if the 8mm DMM sling will behave the same as the Mammut one? Looks like a higher percent of Dyneema, less nylon.
Sean Post · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 31

I mostly use Dyneema, but FWIW I also try to keep at least one shoulder-length nylon in the rack for use as a friction hitch in case I or my partner forget/drop prusik cord. If you only take one, it's a pretty small weight penalty for a higher safety margin. 

DR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 998

I haven't had any issues with the mammut slings and like the fact that they have the snagfree closure. I do also like carrying a cordalette depending on the area mostly for extending anchors.

stolo · · Lake Norman, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 214
Sean Post wrote: I mostly use Dyneema, but FWIW I also try to keep at least one shoulder-length nylon in the rack for use as a friction hitch in case I or my partner forget/drop prusik cord. If you only take one, it's a pretty small weight penalty for a higher safety margin. 

Dyneema shoulder-length works just fine for friction hitches too

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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