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When to switch from hiking boots to mountaineering boots.

Original Post
Ian Hughes · · Riverside/ San Diego · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Hi everyone!

I've been getting into mountaineering more and more lately and I had a question about when you like to make the switch from regular old hiking boots to actual mountaineering boots. I tend to be a bit of a minimalist (also because I'm a broke college student) so all the alpine climbs I've done so far have been with my good old Vasque waterproof hiking boots with some off brand crampons strapped on the bottom. So far this setup has done me fairly well on lowkey hikes like Whitney via the chute (like in the picture I attached) and the Baldy Bowl. I was just wondering at what level of climbing would I start to see an advantage of getting a boot that's actually made for mountaineering and a good set of crampons to match? Are mountaineering boots more for really intense alpine climbs or are they nice for more lowkey climbs like the Baldy Bowl?

I realize the answer might be along the lines of "When you feel uncomfortable with your shawty gear" but I'm planning on hiking Middle Palisade in early June and what with all this snowfall, I'd like to be prepared. What would you wear for a hike like that? I'm planning on working my way through all the CA 14ers in the next few years. Would my boots get me through all of them?

Let me know what you guys think!

- Ian 

 
Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643

As a single rule of thumb, you will likely want mountaineering boots for routes that require front-pointing with crampons through exposed terrain.  

For most people, that happens on firm snow and ice, steeper than about 40 degrees.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Karl just closed the thread.  Anything that follows is spray or superfluous. 

Used 2climb · · Far North · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

DO it right, use screws in trail runners.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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