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The Ultimate Desert Tower To Do List!™

Original Post
Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026

I'm stuck at work waiting for my long weekend in Moab, and I am obsessing about the desert towers. I searched the forums for a "master list" of desert towers, but I couldn't find anything. I want to use this thread to create The Ultimate Desert Tower To Do List!™ I'll start with the towers/routes that I've either climbed, bailed off/obsessed about going back, or drooled over. Post other routes/towers below and I will add them to the list, ordered roughly by difficulty. It's okay to have more than one route on the same tower. I'm mostly interested in towers in Southern Utah, but I suppose we can include surrounding states. I'm okay with little ding dongs. For me, the defining characteristic of a tower is no "easy" way to the top. I.e. You won't top out to a crowd of tourists.

Usually All Free: 
- Otto's Route on Independence Monument 5.8+ (CO)
- North Chimney of Castleton Tower 5.9
- North Face/ West Crack of Oak Creek Spire 5.9+ (AZ)
- Original Route on The Mace 5.9+ (AZ)
- Kor-Ingalls Route of Castleton Tower 5.9++
- Earth Angel in Mormon Canyon 5.10- (AZ)
- Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art 5.10
- Jah Man on Sister Superior 5.10c
- In Search of Suds on Washer Woman 5.10+
- Ringsizer on Pinky Tower 5.10 PG-13
- Lonely Vigil on Lighthouse Tower 5.10
- Fine Jade of the Rectory (Tower?) 5.11a 
- Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest 11a 
- Free Window Route on Echo Pinnacle 11a
- Long Dong on Kissing Couple 11a (CO)
-
North Face of Castleton Tower 5.11- 
- Lightning Bolt Cracks on N. Six Shooter 11-
- North Ridge of Monster Tower 5.11 
- The Regular Route of Standing Rock 5.11c
- Primrose Dihedrals on Moses 5.11+
- Sisyphus on Zeus 5.11R 
- Dolofright on Dolomite Spire 5.11dR
- Medicine Man on Sentinel Spire 12a (CO)

Usually Involves Aid: 
- Zenyatta Entrada on Tower of Babel 5.4 C2+
 - Maverick on The Hindu 5.9 C2 (free at 13?) 
- Kor Route on Dolomite Spire 5.8 C2
- Finger of Fate on the Titan 5.8 C2+ (free at 13?) 
- Regular Route on Islet in the Sky 5.9+ C3?
- Fang Spire 5.9+ C3 (Zion)

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084

Lightning Bolts on North Sixshooter is the same quality. 

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
ddriver wrote: Lightning Bolts on North Sixshooter is the same quality. 

Added. I definitely want to do that one. Keep them coming. 

Samuel Andree · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2015 · Points: 70

Free Window Route on Echo Pinnacle

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084
Samuel Andree wrote: Free Window Route on Echo Pinnacle

Agreed.  A less-appreciated classic.

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
Samuel Andree wrote: Free Window Route on Echo Pinnacle

This looks rad and I've never even heard of it! 

Maya L · · Chicago, IL · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 35

Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
Greg Opland wrote:
Original Route on The Mace in Sedona is a worthy tower.

also in Sedona, The Earth Angel

Added. Both look cool. 

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
Maya L wrote: Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art

Added. I'm afraid to do that one because I think it's going to a massive guide-train cluster, but some day. 

J Achey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 155

Don't forget Zeus next to Moses, Dolomite next to Lighthouse, and the Bridger Jacks - you can tick the complete traverse! And Texas Tower, the granddaddy of them all.

chris vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 540
C Archibolt wrote:

Added. I'm afraid to do that one because I think it's going to a massive guide-train cluster, but some day. 

Go at 4-5pm, let the gumbies get it over with then have the summit to yourself.

Maya L · · Chicago, IL · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 35

Oh, also, not exactly a free-standing tower, but fits your criterion: mountainproject.com/route/1…

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
J Achey wrote: Don't forget Zeus next to Moses, Dolomite next to Lighthouse, and the Bridger Jacks - you can tick the complete traverse! And Texas Tower, the granddaddy of them all.

You posted some scary ones! What's the best route on Texas Tower? 

Spencer Cone · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 205

You might top out to a crowd of tourists on Castleton. 

rpc · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 775

King of Pain via Vision Quest
Tower Of Babel via Zenyatta Entrada
Oak Creek Spire in Sedona

Ron O · · middle of nowhere, southern… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Too many to list

I like some of the ones I got to by boat. Not so crazy. Most of the great towers are within 10 miles of a major river.

David A · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 405

If it was legal, the Totem Pole in Monument Valley, but it's illegal, so don't do it. But if it was legal, it would be one of the BEST desert tower climbs on the Colorado Plateau (or so I've heard...). 

Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 555
chris_vultaggio wrote:

Go at 4-5pm, let the gumbies get it over with then have the summit to yourself.

Definitely go at the end of the day.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Can we please not have this be a thing? Last thing the fragile desert needs is hordes of people ticking off some dumb ass list for their instagram. Some places don't need to be discovered by everyone. 

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
grog m wrote: Can we please not have this be a thing? Last thing the fragile desert needs is hordes of people ticking off some dumb ass list for their instagram. Some places don't need to be discovered by everyone. 

It's not going on instagram or anywhere else. The "TM" thing is just a joke. 

David A · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 405
grog m wrote: Can we please not have this be a thing? Last thing the fragile desert needs is hordes of people ticking off some dumb ass list for their instagram. Some places don't need to be discovered by everyone. 

Think it's a little too late for that, man. Towers have been discovered. People know that they are awesome. Luckily the vast majority of people who go out and climb these things adhere to responsible outdoor ethics...I don't think most people who are going for the lesser-done towers are only "doin for the Gram". 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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