Mountain Project Logo

camp dyon

Original Post
RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

went to climbing shop and really like the feel of it, small nose and full strength.  Anyone else use this for racking?  I was looking for a full size biner and thought of the WC Helium untill I saw these.  

Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

I have 2 of them. Nice but so pricey. Get photons for racking

RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

wanted a snag free closure

Sean Post · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 31

I have a rackpack's worth of the Dyons. In terms of general use I have no complaints; they're light, close fine, and are pretty low-profile. My only concern is that they don't feel very beefy; the nose especially feels thin, like it would bend/snap in a second if the biner were loaded improperly. If you can find them on sale, go for it; otherwise they're not any better on the whole than comparable snag-free wiregates (Hoodwire, Alpha Trad, Helium). 

Ryan Pfleger · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 25

If you like them I think they are a good snag free 'biner. I actually don't like the feel of any of the single wire 'biners, but I think that is just a personal quirk and one I'd likely get over if I started using them a lot. My favorite racking 'biner is the Nano 22 for bare hands, Photon for gloves and rope side. 

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 987

They are cool.  I love my nano 22 carabiners for racking cams and for alpine draws, but I've learned that they love to catch on each other in crazy ways when you have a lot of gear on your harness.  The Dyons solve this with their snag-free gate. I also really like the Petzl Ange carabiners.

Crotch Robbins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 307

Dyons are very smooth handling biners but they exhibit some gate slap due to extra mass at the end of the wire gate.

J W H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Like Ryan, I love the Nano 22 gear-side, Photon rope-side combo. I haven't found the Photons to be too snaggy, but haven't climbed a lot on them yet. I have been practicing basic aid techniques, and have found I really like the Dyons for the ends of my etriers and 'fifi'. They are great for anything that needs a hooking motion. Expensive.

Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Am i the only  petzl ange guy?

Sean Post · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 31

Love 'em but they don't come in cam colors. 

Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Fair enough

I am.not the hardest dude, but i do know a thing or two about climbing  hard (for me) trad. Up to mid 13 in zion the creek, and 12+ other places. For me notched raching biners make so much less differance than just being easy to stuff the rope into and light. For alpines yeah its nice to have a clean nosed biner.   But even then. You are almost never fully extending in hard terrrain. Light and easy to clip is way more important. Matching is really nice. I have never had a notched wire gate get stuck on a gear loop. 

RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

Thank you everyone

Gregory H · · So, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

I have some Dyons and i really like them. I recently ordered some from the Clymb/Leftlane sports with a 20% off coupon which brought them down to like $8 apiece. Seems like they do 20% off your entire purchase sales about once a month if you decide you want them and aren't in a huge hurry.

Bryan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 482

I've held them but never used them in the wild. The gate feels super stiff to me, I really didn't like the feel of it. I'm sure I wouldn't notice it that much if I were actually using them but I'm used to nano, photon, oz, and the occasional helium.

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 50
Sean Post wrote: Love 'em but they don't come in cam colors. 

They come in 8 colours:

https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/carabiners/dyon-carabiner/

That's good for every brand of cams out there.
Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

The Dyon is good enough for sure, though IMHO the Helium is (still!) king.

Though the Dyon certainly works ok, am I the only one that thinks Dyon is a funny name for a carabiner? In my head it sounds too much like "Die on" such as: "Yer gonna die on that carabiner." I realize that it's an Italian company and that there is probably a good reason for naming it that, but it just seems like a funny name for a 'biner.

James Bing · · Salem, NH · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Mike wrote: The Dyon is good enough for sure, though IMHO the Helium is (still!) king.

Though the Dyon certainly works ok, am I the only one that thinks Dyon is a funny name for a carabiner? In my head it sounds too much like "Die on" such as: "Yer gonna die on that carabiner." I realize that it's an Italian company and that there is probably a good reason for naming it that, but it just seems like a funny name for a 'biner.

Lmao


Apparently it’s a hypothetical particle with a magnetic charge as well as an electronic charge according to Wikipedia 
Scott Morrison 182 · · Alburtis, PA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 3
Sean Post wrote: Love 'em but they don't come in cam colors. 

They have a dyon rackpack, same colors as the Nano 22. It’s pricey though at $79

Scott Morrison 182 · · Alburtis, PA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 3

They are great for racking nuts. Two dyons are big enough to split a set well and the hook free nose is nice so the wires don’t get hung. 

acrophobe · · Orange, CT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

One of the nice bonuses about the Helium design, is that the notchless gate has a hood that prevents the gate from scraping sideways against the rock and opening under pressure.  This applies equally to the DMM Chimera, Alpha Light, BD OZ, as well as the Petzl Anges and similar wire gates that lack notches.  Some biners that do not have these hoods have tabs the stick out a few millimeters to achieve the same effect.

The Dyon gate does the reverse of this.  The wide portion is on the wiregate and more likely catch on the rock.

I don't think this is a big deal, but also don't see a compelling reason to pick the Dyon over these other biners, all of which I have used.

Sean Post · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 31
Scott Morrison 182 wrote:

They have a dyon rackpack, same colors as the Nano 22. It’s pricey though at $79

I was talking about the Petzl Anges. It seemed weird to quote the post directly above me, but I guess I should have, since multiple people thought I was talking about Dyons even though I had stated my opinion of them upthread. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "camp dyon"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.