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Did Tommy & Kevin not lead every pitch of the Dawn Wall?
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I was reading Ondra's wiki and it says he was the first to lead every pitch. If that's true, yet T&K free'd the whole wall, does that mean they top roped some of the pitches??? Maybe I'm just not understanding this correctly or the wiki is just wrong. |
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I think Ondra led every pitch and his belayer just belayed and followed whereas KJ and TC swapped leads. However, they did both lead the Crux pitches. |
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They followed the pitches they didn't lead. They swung leads the whole climb. |
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My understanding was that both KJ and TC led every pitch. Wasn't that the whole point of KJ finishing the traverse? |
Sean C wrote: I think Ondra led every pitch and his belayer just belayed and followed whereas KJ and TC swapped leads. However, they did both lead the Crux pitches. That was my understanding too. They both lead the hardest stuff, with the assumption being they could easily lead the easier pitches if they HAD to, but it was faster to just swap leads for those pitches to save time. Ondra's situation was a bit different. He had a dedicated belayer who wasn't climbing, just jugging, so he obviously had to lead every pitch. |
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Who cares? |
Cory Brooks wrote: Who cares? Travis Crane |
B W wrote: But why? |
Cory Brooks wrote: Who cares? |
B W wrote: Indeed. |
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Yeah, Tommy TRed some pitches. He's also actually got 11 fingers, and in Soviet Kyrgyzstan he captured terrorist! Your whole life is a lie!! |
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They swapped leads for the first several easier pitches of like 5.9-5.12 then they both led all of the harder pitches (like 5.13 and above). There's also like a couple of easier pitches at the top, I think. And I'm not sure if they swapped leads on those or not. |
B W wrote: It's been a while since I'm met a philosopher of your stature. Awe inspiring. |
Travis Crane wrote: Gracias! I'm illuminating, aren't I? |
B W wrote: We should collaboratore on an ariticle and submit it to the philosophical review. |
Cory Brooks wrote: Circular logic is circular could be the thesis? |
Chris Johnson wrote: Really? They spent a month climbing it, how much time you think they saved by swapping leads? |
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Listening comprehension is low in this thread. Did you watch Dawn Wall? |
Fehim Hasecic wrote: It isn’t about time saved, I bet it’s about jugging saved. |
Kelley Gilleran wrote: Listening comprehension is low in this thread. Did you watch Dawn Wall? Watched, but were likely spewing more bs instead of listening. I thought it was clear. EDIT: OK, I can admit when I am wrong... from https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventure-blog/2015/01/14/how-the-yosemite-climbers-dawn-wall-first-free-ascent-has-pushed-the-sport-forward/ Over the years, big-wall free climbers on El Cap have debated over the various “styles” of ascent. The method employed by Caldwell and Jorgeson over the past 19 days has left many in the climbing community scratching their heads about what to make of their style. The goal for Caldwell and Jorgeson was simply for both climbers to free climb every pitch. At least one person had to lead every pitch, and once that pitch was led, then it was OK for the second person to free climb that pitch on top-rope. It became confusing because, once the two climbers hit the block of really hard pitches, from pitch 14 through 20, they each free-climbed these pitches out of order from each other. Jorgeson battled to complete pitch 15, while Caldwell continued leading every pitch up to pitch 20. After Jorgeson led pitch 15, and pitch 16, then he top-roped pitches 17-20 while catching up to Caldwell. This style really stretches the definition of “team free” to its limit due to the fact that both climbers ascended each pitch of the Dawn Wall in succession to their own high point, but out of order in relation to each other. |
Fehim Hasecic wrote: Someone leads, then cleans, then the next person leads, then the first leader jugs back up. At that point, there are 4 trips up or down the same pitch. Sure, they were up there for a long time, but they needed the time to get the hardest pitches. Also, it's not like anyone is doubting that either of them can easily lead 5.12 or easier. That's the point. It's not like Kevin only made it up the wall because he had a little TR help. Why waste time you don't have to to accomplish the goal you set (free climb the dawn wall)? |
