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Slab Climbing! What’s the limit, Man!?

Original Post
J R · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 50

About a month ago I was in J-tree trying to bag me a redpoint on Hot Rocks. Well, we threw up a TR on The route next to it “stand and deliver” a 5.12a Slab climb, and it got me thinking, what’s the limit to slab grade?That 5.12a felt damn near impossible.

Chris Bersbach · · Arroyo Grande, CA · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 356

Not the hardest based on grade, but maybe based on the number of ascents over the time it's been established: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109538712/hall-of-mirrors  

Miss Cat · · Hell · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 1,607
Chris Hatzai · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 909
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

Slabby arete in one vid and face climb in the other, not true slabs.

Steve Marshall · · Concord NH · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

this is supposed to be a V10

https://vimeo.com/193064839

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108131730/the-voodoo-child

so if there's V10+ slabs out there, there must be 5.13+ or 14 slab lines too...

Mark Orsag · · Omaha, NE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 931

I have heard of 5.13 to 5.14- slabs in Europe and Africa. They must be just heinous. I like harder slabs in the 10a to mid-11 range. Above that, the sport versions get scary pretty quick as there is next to nothing to clip from. Bold/crazy first ascenders tend to compensate for this by running these out. I am hoping to climb a couple of 11b slabs on my upcoming trip. Right beside one of those is a new 12b slab route. The guidebook says it is awesome, but who really leads this kind of stuff? Not a whole lot of people... I am fairly sure that I will look at it, shake my head, and walk away...

Mark O

Rick Carpenter · · Marion, NC · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,315

There is a 5.13d slab in Western NC that was bolted by Pat Goodman and sent in 2017 by Ben Hanna

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109688005/headspace

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55

Taken From Supertopo.      "The hardest single pitch slab climb is most probably Territorio Comanche (proposed rating is 8c+) in La Pedriza (which already has established slab climbs at 8b+). The climber who sent the route, Ignacio Mulero describes the difficulties this way: the first three bolts consists of a V6 or V7 boulder of pure slab, almost without hands, followed by a 30 meter long, very continuous section with sustained movement like the hardest moves on the existing 8b+ slabs."

Mark Orsag · · Omaha, NE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 931

14c. And I can't imagine that there are many lines out there undiscovered in that range that would go. Too many breaks in the video (somebody got artsy), but fun and informative to watch his technique. Thanks for posting!

sourisse · · Canmore, AB · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 180

Some ideas: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116385536/tough-slab-areas-in-north-america

Surprised nobody has mentioned The Meltdown (not the Beth Rodden route) in Wales, which is 14d.

Mathew Coburn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Meltdown, 5.14d, an old Johnny Dawes project, FA by James McHaffie.

https://vimeo.com/55772201

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55
Mark Orsag wrote: 14c. And I can't imagine that there are many lines out there undiscovered in that range that would go. Too many breaks in the video (somebody got artsy), but fun and informative to watch his technique. Thanks for posting!

yeah I hate artsy. I want raw no music added video!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
sourisse wrote: Some ideas: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116385536/tough-slab-areas-in-north-america

Surprised nobody has mentioned The Meltdown (not the Beth Rodden route) in Wales, which is 14d.

As I mentioned in that earlier thread, we should distinguish between friction climbing and crimping up less-than-vertical rock. Meltdown is in the latter category. Hall of Mirrors is friction (or lack thereof!) climbing. The Adirondacks (photo) and NH have great friction climbing at reasonable grades (i.e. below 5.11).

Tim Lutz · · Colo-Rado Springs · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5
KyleMFSpurgeon · · Syracuse, NY · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 26
Gunkiemike wrote:

As I mentioned in that earlier thread, we should distinguish between friction climbing and crimping up less-than-vertical rock. Meltdown is in the latter category. Hall of Mirrors is friction (or lack thereof!) climbing. The Adirondacks (photo) and NH have great friction climbing at reasonable grades (i.e. below 5.11).

What is this climb?!

Sean Post · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 31

The lower slab pitches of Lurking Fear go between 5.12b and 5.13c free.

https://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#westb

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
Gunkiemike wrote:
 

Hall of Mirrors is friction (or lack thereof!) climbing. 

Tell me more about your experience on Hall of Mirrors? :D

While the opening lower angle pitches are friction slabs (Misty Beethoven), the cruxes are steep slab edging per report.
Hamish Hamish · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15
KyleMFSpurgeon wrote:

What is this climb?!

I’m guessing it’s something on Chapel Pond Slab??!?

Big B · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1

Southern Belle, South Face of Half Dome

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
Big B wrote: Southern Belle, South Face of Half Dome

Yes, certainly for commitment.

Dawn Wall for 5.14d slab may be the hardest yet done.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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