Slab Climbing! What’s the limit, Man!?
|
About a month ago I was in J-tree trying to bag me a redpoint on Hot Rocks. Well, we threw up a TR on The route next to it “stand and deliver” a 5.12a Slab climb, and it got me thinking, what’s the limit to slab grade?That 5.12a felt damn near impossible. |
|
Not the hardest based on grade, but maybe based on the number of ascents over the time it's been established: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109538712/hall-of-mirrors |
|
|
|
|
|
Slabby arete in one vid and face climb in the other, not true slabs. |
|
this is supposed to be a V10 |
|
I have heard of 5.13 to 5.14- slabs in Europe and Africa. They must be just heinous. I like harder slabs in the 10a to mid-11 range. Above that, the sport versions get scary pretty quick as there is next to nothing to clip from. Bold/crazy first ascenders tend to compensate for this by running these out. I am hoping to climb a couple of 11b slabs on my upcoming trip. Right beside one of those is a new 12b slab route. The guidebook says it is awesome, but who really leads this kind of stuff? Not a whole lot of people... I am fairly sure that I will look at it, shake my head, and walk away... |
|
There is a 5.13d slab in Western NC that was bolted by Pat Goodman and sent in 2017 by Ben Hanna |
|
Taken From Supertopo. "The hardest single pitch slab climb is most probably Territorio Comanche (proposed rating is 8c+) in La Pedriza (which already has established slab climbs at 8b+). The climber who sent the route, Ignacio Mulero describes the difficulties this way: the first three bolts consists of a V6 or V7 boulder of pure slab, almost without hands, followed by a 30 meter long, very continuous section with sustained movement like the hardest moves on the existing 8b+ slabs." |
|
14c. And I can't imagine that there are many lines out there undiscovered in that range that would go. Too many breaks in the video (somebody got artsy), but fun and informative to watch his technique. Thanks for posting! |
|
Some ideas: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116385536/tough-slab-areas-in-north-america |
|
Meltdown, 5.14d, an old Johnny Dawes project, FA by James McHaffie. |
|
Mark Orsag wrote: 14c. And I can't imagine that there are many lines out there undiscovered in that range that would go. Too many breaks in the video (somebody got artsy), but fun and informative to watch his technique. Thanks for posting! yeah I hate artsy. I want raw no music added video! |
|
sourisse wrote: Some ideas: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116385536/tough-slab-areas-in-north-america As I mentioned in that earlier thread, we should distinguish between friction climbing and crimping up less-than-vertical rock. Meltdown is in the latter category. Hall of Mirrors is friction (or lack thereof!) climbing. The Adirondacks (photo) and NH have great friction climbing at reasonable grades (i.e. below 5.11). |
|
|
|
Gunkiemike wrote: What is this climb?! |
|
The lower slab pitches of Lurking Fear go between 5.12b and 5.13c free. |
|
Gunkiemike wrote:
Tell me more about your experience on Hall of Mirrors? :D While the opening lower angle pitches are friction slabs (Misty Beethoven), the cruxes are steep slab edging per report. |
|
KyleMFSpurgeon wrote: I’m guessing it’s something on Chapel Pond Slab??!? |
|
Southern Belle, South Face of Half Dome |
|
Big B wrote: Southern Belle, South Face of Half Dome Yes, certainly for commitment. Dawn Wall for 5.14d slab may be the hardest yet done. |