Talk me out of taking a trad lead class, please.

I’m a fairly new climber, although I’m older(38). I’ve been climbing outdoors for the past 4 summers,  but I’ve only ever toproped at places where you can walk to set the anchors and rap down to climb. I have climbed in the gym, but don’t like it that much. I’d really like to expand my horizons this summer season and learn to trad lead and potentially do some multi-pitch climbs. I have a partner who has been great at helping me set top rope anchors and I really enjoy climbing with him.  But, I’d like to step up my game this year and don’t have many options to learn to trad lead other than taking a class with a local guide. But, I’d rather spend that $ on cams or something. The issue is I live in the climbing Mecca of central PA.  I’m about 3 hours from the Gunks, but don’t know anybody there let alone someone who would want to mentor an older beginner climber to climb trad. So is the class my only option or should I try for something else?  Thanks. 

Considering the distance you live away and that you don't seem to know any trad climbers around you, I would take the class. Trad classes can be pricey, but if you go with a reputable outfit, you do have the assurance that the instructors have some professional certifications suggesting they know what they're doing.

You're also not terribly far from Seneca Rocks. I took a trad class there, and it was really worth it. It wasn't so much learning to place gear that was so valuable but learning to build anchors, assess rock quality, and find creative placements.

Are you an engineer, mechanic, etc?  Buy a rack, grab your favorite climbing partner and go out there, climb easy stuff, and figure it out.

Not mechanically inclined?  Read a book, buy a rack, grab your favorite partner and go figure it out. 

Central PA IS a climbing mecca.  you need to meet some people and find your infinite gritstone and sandstone wonderland!

not to mention mocc will get you well versed in sketch.  

It doesn't hurt to take the class and learn the basics. This way when you do get out to the Gunks or smaller crags to practice you'll have better confidence in what you're doing when with a partner. Read the sticky in the beginner forum and understand the basics of cleaning/following to be a good partner and try to find people on here or the many FB groups to meet up with people that are willing to partner up.

there are some easy routes at the water gap you could tick. 

I'm far from an accomplished lead climber, so take this with a grain of salt.

I don't think there is anything wrong with classes.

That said, it's not rocket science.  It's not horribly unreasonable to just buy some cams, watch a ton of videos, practice placing pro on the ground, and then go and lead a bunch of easy stuff you're not going to fall off.  That's a highly variable bit of process depending on how competent you are at teaching yourself stuff.

It's better to have some guidance.  I'd recommend getting on Facebook or whatever and finding partners.  The thing about learning is that if you can find different folks to go with who are leading, most of them have a rack... that's true of about anyone you'd want to learn from.  So my general advice is to start finding partners who are already leading.  Finding and assessing partners is a skill in itself... it takes a certain amount effort to put yourself out there, and a lot of commitment to just ask people and go out on the rock whenever you can, and it's interesting to see how different folks operate on the rock... but finding partners who know more than you do and following them around when you can is the best way to learn skills.

By the way... yeesh... 38 isn't "older".     I'm 41.  I went climbing with a 23 year old this weekend, and we had a great time.  But I'll climb with about anybody of any age if they are fun to be around.

I will preface my comment with YGD and I am gunna die, since I am sure it will be said, but Rock Climbing Anchors is a great book and is where I started. I just did what you suggested, bought some gear and started leading stuff well below my limit. So far I have not died. IMO placing gear is not all that complicated and there are plenty of youtube videos out there that are very helpful.

Additionally, you could also just buy some gear and post up in the partner finder or just show up at the gunks. Follow some people who are more experienced and you will learn about placing gear whilst cleaning and getting trad mileage. I am sure there are plenty of people that would be more than willing to let you follow them.

Were there trad classes in the golden age and stone monkeys era? I never took a class. I've gotten pretty hurt, but I've also had some big, successful whippers on bomber gear. I climb better when trad climbing than when I'm sport climbing. I don't like climbing at my limit on questionable gear placements. 5.8 and below has some pretty remarkable challenges. Just climb easy stuff. 

I would also advise you to start easy and figure it out for yourself.  I just think that's a better way to learn anything.

+1 for reading the book Rock Climbing Anchors. Then read it again after some real world experience. 

There's fundamentals that you can learn on your own through research or a class - building an anchor, placing bomber pro, transitioning during pitches, etc. Once you have the basics, it helps to practice on low grades where the climbing element is nearly removed and you're mainly focused on the basics. You also want a partner than can judge your protection and actively tell you how each piece looked. 

Most of the advice above is pretty good....there's basically 3 ways to learn to lead:
1) Figure it out yourself with a friend by reading and experimentation.  Many excellent climbers learned this way,  Most, however, if they are truly honest, will say that there was someone who helped with at least some level of "mentoring".  Today there are many "how to" books on anchors, protection and gear that didn't exist "back in the day".
2) Find a mentor and/or a group that will help and mentor. Again, many excellent climbers learned this way.  Whether you say you learned by method # 1 or method #2 is usually just  a matter of degree.
3) Take a course with an accredited school / guide.  Ah...but AFTER the course you're sort of back at #1 or #2 to learn more.  You'll never stop learning...that's one of the great things about outdoor climbing.  

Something you may not of thought about is taking a whole week of vacation, and using a guide, say, for 3 or 4 days and mixing in both "learning to lead" and "some great climbing with the guide leading".  If you take this route, having two of you helps spread the costs somewhat.  With two of you, you can also do some non-guided climbing on the days you don't hire a guide.  You also want to clear what your doing  iin advance and get the same guide each day, or at least most days.  There's just SOOOOOO much more to outdoor leading than just learning to place good gear and climb above it. Yes, expensive, but by having a "condensed & focused" series of sessions there's opportunity for the guide to correct incipient errors, and a camraderie could (should) develop that probably won't develop in a one-day scenario.

   

Hobo Greg wrote:

Even something that could get you killed if you didn’t learn it correctly?

Chris Hill wrote: I would also advise you to start easy and figure it out for yourself.  I just think that's a better way to learn anything.

Hobo Greg wrote:

Even something that could get you killed if you didn’t learn it correctly?

Let's be clear... plenty of people who learned "correctly" have been killed rock climbing. Many of them being experts of this meaningful activity.  Yes, guides to seasoned climbers have felt the effect of death. Some guides have had this experience while in guiding/ teaching mode.

Have you followed trad? Have you followed multi pitch?

My suggestion - head to Seneca, hire a guide, and follow them around the rock.  Seneca, not the gunks, for the different nature of multi pitch there.

Just seconding a bunch of trad routes if you've not already done that, will give you a ton of experience which could be enough to launch you on your own path, or act as a foundation for a future class.

I personally would make friends in your local gym and find out who trad climbs.  Ask if you can go outdoors with them and follow..  I bet you'll meet some cool people that wouldn't mind at all, as long as you're a solid lead belayer, and it certainly would entice if you offer to drive.  Study every single placement and ask some questions along the way.  Study a bit online, buy yourself a rack, then go out and lead something well below your limit and practice placing.  That's exactly what I did.  Good luck.

If you have a small rack on hand I found that practicing placement on sport routes is a great way  to get some practice in a lower consequence setting as you are backed up by bolts. Top roping works too. I say take the class to get started but do lots of reading and playing with gear FIRST.   Learn as much as you can (on the ground or backed up) before your lesson.   Watch a million videos.  This will allow you to get the most out of your session and ask questions about the finer points of trad instead of getting lessons on what cams and nuts are.

If you’ve got the cash, classes are never a bad idea.  When I started climbing trad, I watched a LOT of YouTube videos on gear placement. I bought the beginnings of a rack, and would place gear while top roping, and have a buddy inspect my placements. I’ve heard of beginners testing their placements by clipping directly to gear, and whipping on it while on top roping. Once you can indentify bomber placement, it’ll make your life a whole lot easier. As several other people stated - climb well below your limit until you feel comfortable.

I have to say at one point I wanted to be a know it all and just do it all on my own like I wouldn't suffer any repercussions from any possible mistakes I might make, because I though I was that good.. that I didn't to be taught anything.
I'm mid 30's myself now, and I want people to teach me how to stay alive.
Teach me things beyond my assumptions and gathered info from youtube videos.
It's ok to start from the ground, up. To learn as you go through the community and from classes.
I highly advise it, I am taking classes myself.
Get insight from the certified. Not the youtube lol. Good luckwith it.

Yer gonna DIE!