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Sport Climbing in Italy

Original Post
Phil Tylman · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 15

I'm headed to Italy at the at the end of April and am going to spend a few days around Florence and Cinque Terre. Was wondering if anyone has any info on sport climbing near Cinque Terre?

I'll be solo on this portion of the trip so would likely need to find some sort of guide or anything sub 5th class that I could do on my own. I've read great things about the climbing over there but not much information about guiding/finding a climbing partner for people who already have experience. Most of what I've found is for those who don't have climbing experience and they're pretty expensive.

I'm climbing up to ~5.11b/c in the gym and leading up to 5.9 or 5.10 (typically sport) in CO.

Mauro F · · Lecco, IT · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 15

Hi Phil,
I can't help much with Florence & Tuscany as I'm in the Milan area and climb mainly around Lecco & Lake Como...if you come this way give me a shout and we can arrange some climbs.
cheers,
Mauro

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,419

Here's probably the most popular location:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107498304/muzzerone

http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingItaly/RockClimbingMuzzerone.html

You might toss a specific shout out for Muzzerone.  Another area nearby that's not a super far drive is Finale Ligure.  If I was solo, I'd head there to look for partners.

You might try the UKC forums for a partner as well.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/destinations/

Suresh P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Hi All,

I'm also heading to italy in early May. If someone available to climb then i can plan my trip around it.
Will be in Italy from (April 29th to May 11).

Almost same grade like Phil

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

If you're in Cinque Terre it's only a coupe hours to Finale Ligure, probably your best bet for partners, variety, etc.  Otherwise there's stuff in northern Toscana but not as well known/ traveled

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

While I say you should go and try, finding partners can be difficult depending on the area.  Years back, I went on a solo trip to Arco and met some locals, primarily because there's a bouldering area adjacent to a central campground.  Having said that, my primary partner for the two weeks I was there was a 14 yr. who could climb 7b since most of the other locals had to work during the day.  Many evening crag sessions though.  In retrospect I feel like I happened to get lucky since now, even though climbing is more popular, finding partners sometimes feels more difficult. 

Suresh P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

And to add this is like my vacation trip and thought if I have a partner then I can think of carrying my climbing stuff. That’s why I have been keeping an eye on this forum. Let’s see but thank you guys for the reply

Henrik Overballe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Otherwise Arco is one of the most varied sport climbing places in Europe! This is really excellent quality limestone, and there are both single pitch crags like:

Massi Di Prabi: youtu.be/kzermdJzvzM

and very good multi-pitches too, such as:

6a, La Cengia Rossa: youtu.be/gEHRVEG6OrA
6a, Primi Sogni: youtu.be/I7sSUccRNa8
5c, Moonbears: youtu.be/Yc27aLR1IOc
VII, Via Transylvania: youtu.be/3tYzhS05yMk

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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