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Enchanted rock

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Jack Pain · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10

Me and my brother in law will be in Fredericksburg tx for Easter to visit family. Plan on making a trip to enchanted rock for some climbing. Anyone have any info on the area? Is it mostly drive in or lots of hiking? Is a .4 thru to #3 rack of cams gunna be enough for the routes there or is it mostly bigger stuff?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. And if anyone is in the area over Easter and wants to show us around the crags. The more the merrier. 

Blakevan · · Texas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 56

Have only climbed there a few times so can't comment on gear but I have been left out on the hwy because the parking lot was full so please read below.

From their website: We have a very high volume of visitors on Saturdays, Sundays, holidays and school breaks. We close when we reach capacity. Purchase “Save the Day” passes up to 30 days before your visit with the new state parks reservation system. Passes may only be available online during busy times.

https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/enchanted-rock

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

E Rock is awesome.  It is getting more popular so get their early (like, when they open) or camp.  There is a little hiking depending on what area you want to get on. Approach times can range from 5-10 mins to the Carnivores, to 30-60 mins to Buzzards Roost/backside.  All types of climbing, from run out face to great bouldering to finger to off width. Most cracks are short and splitter so that rack will work for most (many anchors will require a few cams so remember that). Keep in mind the Boy Scouts like to practice rappelling on some popular areas, so have backup plans if you're route is swamped.  Hit Coopers BBQ, and have fun.  

Check out:
Cave Crack
Jacknife
Sweat
Owl Crack
Little Feet
Top Chioce

David Rice · · San Antonio, TX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 548

Enchanted Rock is often closed on weekends and holidays due to high visitation.  You can purchase entrance permits online in advanced.  If you don’t purchase a permit in advanced on a weekend or holiday you won’t get it.  Buy them at: https://texasstateparks.reserveamerica.com

Enchanted Rock is lots of hiking.  You’ll hike all day and maybe get in four or so pitches.  The climbing areas tend to be fairly empty.  Most people going there just want to hike to the top of the main dome.

Your rack should work if you don’t mind running it out a little.  A 4 and doubles of 1 to 3 are nice to have for many climbs there.

Jack Pain · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10

Thanks for the info guys. We are there all week so will aim to go on a weekday. Looking at grading will probs head to main dome area. I'll do a bit more research and check the areas y'all recomended.
Thanks again

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

I found that the area tends to lean towards bigger gear.  As mentioned, doubles of #3 and a 4 would be nice for classics like Cave Crack, Sweat, etc, but they can be done without depending on your comfort zone.  There is also a ton of fun multipitch slabs up the main dome that are bolted, some runout and some not.

Mark Lide · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 10

The classic trad routes have all been mentioned above, apart from smorgasboard which is pretty fun but hard to find.

A single day is probably best spent at the main dome split between the sweat area (sweat, pro sweat, no sweat ect.) and cheap wine wall with imo the best routes at E-rock (mark of the beast, the kracken, ripple ect). These routes at cheap wine wall are all slab and mostly pretty run out so bring shoes you trust, the climbing is easy however so it's a blast.

Jack Pain · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10

pretty stoked to go. ordered a set of 1 thru 3 wild countrys so now have doubles in those. and also a number 4 wild country. should be a fun trip

Jason Ackerson · · Lafayette, IN · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

+1 for Ripple, E-rock slab at its finest.  

Not a rack suggestion but make sure you bring tape. Some of the cracks can be a sharp.

Kory Kirchner · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Texas Crude and Fear of Flying at Buzzard's Roost were my two favorite routes. Worth borrowing/bringing some wide (5 and 6) gear for FoF if you can.
Kraken is a really fun slab route that gets you to the top of main dome and is a good route to hit at the end of the day for sunset - any of those long slab routes on the north side would be good.
The triple cracks area is great. there is only one bolted rap anchor on the leftmost route, so if there are other parties there, that can slow you down if you don't want to do the walkoff/downclimb that is described on mtn proj. 

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370
Jason Ackerson wrote: 
Not a rack suggestion but make sure you bring tape. Some of the cracks can be a sharp.

extremely helpful advice unless your technique is perfect

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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