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How to improve flexibility?

Original Post
Jesse Vanek · · Western MA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I am looking to improve flexibility, especially in quads/glutes/back. Current status: pathetic. Stretching? Yoga? Massage? Other? What has worked for you? What was a waste of time/money? 

Riley Gaines · · Minturn, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Yoga has been huge for me in both flexibility and strengthening small stabilizer muscles that can be overlooked. The breathing and flow of the movements helps me with mental and physical aspects of climbing while improving flexibility. The key for yoga or whatever you do is consistency. Saying you're going to stretch and putting minimal effort is a pitfall I always fell into. Yoga was more structured and once you learn enough poses and how to move between them you can really get more time stretching than you would otherwise. Yoga classes can be great, but it is easy and cheap to get started with a yoga mat and Youtube videos. 

sandrock · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 200

Yoga and stretching for sure.

I also started incorporating mobility workouts 1-2 times a week and saw significant improvements in both flexibility and muscle recovery. Try this 20 minute workout and never mind the guy's tight pants: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8WJtdx5Z7M

Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

Stretching. I was very inflexible, then pulled several muscles (first a bad pull on my hamstring during a heel hook, then in my groin a few months later also while climbing). I decided I didn't want to do that any more. I got an app on my phone that walks me through 20 minutes of stretching. I do it twice a week. Since then, much more flexible, no pulled muscles, and the flexibility occasionally helps when I need to do a tough hand/foot match or a wide stem with my feet. I'd like to stretch more than twice a week, maybe get really flexible, but time is limited and all that.

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493
Greg Koeppen · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 41

Flexibility, for me long hold static stretching has helped so much.

Also, look into active mobility exercises as well, being very flexible is not good if you are not strong in that position.

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

Check this out:   web.mit.edu/tkd/stretch/str…

The link covers seven different types of stretches as well as the pros and cons.  I think in you're quest this might help guide you with the different types of stretches.

Side note: One of my physical therapist said this stretching (like touching your toes) does not increase flexibility (see Ballistic Stretching in the link).  Instead, you adapt to getting used to the pain allowing your to stretch more.  Using weights can increase flexibility.   For example, if done properly, the Romanian Deadlift will stretch the hamstrings and gluts (I think it can get back too but not sure).

Jer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 26
Greg Koeppen wrote: Flexibility, for me long hold static stretching has helped so much.

Also, look into active mobility exercises as well, being very flexible is not good if you are not strong in that position.

Worth noting that this should be done only after climbing/workout. Preworkout it's safer to do short holds of 5 seconds and dynamic stretching

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Intensive Pilate sessions have worked well for me.

Greg Koeppen · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 41

Yes for sure, static stretching is not a pre climbing activity. Do it after climbing or on off days.  Also, dynamic stretching i.e. moving your whole body around is best for warming up prior to climbing.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Yoga has helped me a ton with flexibility for climbing!  Agreed that static stretching is probably not best before climbing but it works super well for me to do it before bed.  

I tend to just search out a few on youtube that I like.  I used to watch a half hour of TV before bed. New routine is to try to do 1/2 hour of yoga that emphasizes flexibility instead.  Side benefit is I sleep way better too plus I saved money by canceling my Netflix subscription.  

Here's a few that have worked well for me.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yOtsZNU4Us

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLy2rYHwUqY

Marc Yamamoto · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 20

Strength is Mobility, Mobility is Strength.

Noah R · · Burlington, VT · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
MarcYY wrote: Strength is Mobility, Mobility is Strength.

Such insight

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

You want mobility; less so flexibility.

Can you give an example of the type of lack of range of motion you currently have?

Ned Plimpton · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 116

I've recently made a concerted effort to increase my terrible flexibility and I've had great success with the too-easy-to-fail approach of doing five stretches for two minutes (using the timer function on my iPhone) EVERY DAY.  It takes 10 minutes (watching tv, before bed, after climbing, etc) so no excuses.  They key for me was doing the stretches EVERY DAY.  The five I performed:  "couch" stretch (each leg/side) for hips, frog for groin/turnout, standing fingers to toes for hamstrings, and cobra for lower/upper back and chest opening.

I've done yoga in the past, which is amazing, but the routine above hits the climbing specific groups for me and only takes 10 min...  simple/stupid.

George Foster · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 12

Anything will work if you actually do it instead of post about it on mountainproject.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
George Foster wrote: Anything will work if you actually do it instead of post about it on mountainproject.

Whaaat? 

Well, that sucks!
Leif Johnson · · Oak View, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 253

Not climbing focused, but I've found the (beginner) routine Starting Stretching to be very valuable. What's nice is that it provides a set program to follow with instructions on each movement. There's also an accompanying program called Molding Mobility that is aimed at joint mobility and serves as a good warm-up.

Ryan Pfleger · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 25

My hip mobility has decreased dramatically in the last 15 years. 90/90 stretch has helped me, but I need to be more consistent. This is a great thread!

Brice C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0
Cory F wrote: Check this out:   web.mit.edu/tkd/stretch/str…

The link covers seven different types of stretches as well as the pros and cons.  I think in you're quest this might help guide you with the different types of stretches.

That link is clutch. It's basically science telling you to do yoga, because a good yoga class will have you more or less following these protocols.

The thing that's helped my flexibility the most has been (a) yoga and (b) strength training. Why? Well, if you're training for the Russian ballet, maybe you need to get your muscles longer. But for most activities, your muscles are already plenty long - their length is just inhibited by your brain, which doesn't want you moving into unfamiliar, possibly unsafe positions. If you focus your strength training on having perfect form and moving through your maximum range of motion, your brain will realize that a position is safe, and it will take the brakes off.

The stronger you get at the end of your range of motion, the greater your range of motion will increase.
Carter Erickson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

A year ago my wife won tickets to a hot pilates/hot yoga place. The pilates destroyed me... never sweat so much in my life! The Yoga though was really good. I felt better after that class than I had in years! Since we couldn't afford the studio (those places are roughly 4x more expensive than your typical gym) I've just started stretching in the sauna at the gym that I go to. I've heard (and I'm sure a quick internet search could confirm) that the heat and humidity are good for loosening up the muscles and help with the flexibility. I probably spend 15 minutes of my time at the gym just in the sauna stretching now and I've felt a return to the flexibility I had in younger years. I'd recommend doing that if you want a slightly different spin on the obvious answer of "stretch more to be more flexible."

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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