EASY SPORT NEAR NYC?

Any good sport routes near NY? I'd be willing to drive a few hours, but can't find much on route finder. I climb mainly indoors, so TRAD is rocket science to me. Would love some sport climbing in the  5.5- 5.9 range until I learn more about placing gear.

Thanks

Birdsboro, Thatcher, Rumney.

Thatcher State Park--a bit southwest of Albany is probably the closest option--though you should check the Thatcher Climbers Coalition website because the park has a number of rules, including when it is open for climbing. The rock there is limestone of far from the best quality.

I am not sure if there is any sport climbing, let alone in the grades that interest you, at the Powerlinz near Suffern (?),NY--just off the Thruway, but if there are such routes that would definitely be your closest option--about an hour from Manhattan. If there are no sport routes, there are plenty of climbs that can be set up for top ropes, so it is worth getting an anchor building lesson--either from experienced friends, some gyms or guide services--as that will increase your options while learning the fine points of trad leading.

Moss Island in Little Falls, NY is another good, easily accessible top rope area--though a good bit further from NYC.

There are very likely also a number of small areas that have bolted routes in the region that are being kept out of the public eye for good reasons.

I see on here that a NJ climbing guidebook is due out very shortly that might also contain some options for you.

There are a handful of sport routes in CT, but their continued existence is always uncertain and most are harder than you are looking for.

There are also some bolted areas in western Mass., again kept under the radar due to access concerns, but by doing some research you might be able to find your way to some of them--though all are a fair drive from NYC.

Rumney in NH is, of course, a great option but quite a drive (6 hours, I'm guessing) from the City. I'm not sure how long a drive it is to Birdsboro (also mentioned above) in central PA.

Trad shouldn't scare you off. You're 90 min (+/-) from the best trad crag in the state - the Gunks. So you can't lead trad yet, so what? There are 200+ routes you can TR at the Peterskill area. Pick up a set of nuts in town (Rock and Snow in New Paltz), so that while you're out at the crag you can start playing with them. Bounce on them, yank 'em around, see what works, what doesn't. n.b. this doesn't come close to constituting "learning to trad climb" but it's a baby step in that direction.

Gunkiemike wrote: Trad shouldn't scare you off. You're 90 min (+/-) from the best trad crag in the state - the Gunks. So you can't lead trad yet, so what? There are 200+ routes you can TR at the Peterskill area. Pick up a set of nuts in town (Rock and Snow in New Paltz), so that while you're out at the crag you can start playing with them. Bounce on them, yank 'em around, see what works, what doesn't. n.b. this doesn't come close to constituting "learning to trad climb" but it's a baby step in that direction.

If you're like me, you'll find that setting up top ropes in Peterskill is such a PITA that it's easier (and more fun) to just learn how to lead trad.

As Gunkiemike himself acknowledges,there is a 'bit' more to building a good, safe TR anchor, and in learning how to trad lead than just 'playing with' some nuts and seeing what works. That is why I recommended that OP take an anchor building class or learn from an experienced friend to start and develop from there. For many of us 'old timers' (and I'm a very old timer) it was normal to learn how to set anchors and trad lead (the only leading back then) by following more experienced acquaintances--often through one of the climbing clubs.It is hard to over-estimate the learning value of following and cleaning trad pitches led by an experienced leader and then doing one's first such leads under their tutelage. The same goes for setting good TR anchors. These days, for many folks learning how to climb in gyms, with most of their peers similarly trained, the opportunities for such trad 'apprenticeships' are limited or non-existent, so it is often difficult for them to find a way to move beyond the limitations of indoor sport and bouldering

For "easy sport" near NYC, Birdsboro and Safe Harbor are both close enough for a day trip. Thacher, too, though it has fewer routes within the grade range you mention. For "good sport," as far as I know, you gotta drive farther. 

if you're a climber and live in new york for the next few years or foreseeable future, you have no excuse not to go to the gunks. it's a world class, huge, and beautiful climbing area. whether or not you lead trad, there are multiple ways for you to climb there. and if you do end up learning to lead trad, or at least learning to clean gear and follow trad leaders, you'll be a better climber for it.