pack choice for bugaboos rock.

Going to the bugaboos this summer.  In terms of packs right now my choices are the patagonia linked 18 and the arcterix fl 45.  The 45 liter pack is obviously a bit big but on the other hand it climbs well.  The 18 liter pack on the other hand may not quite be enough for crampons, and boots (trango cube)

Considering getting the arcterix fl 30 which may be a happy medium but not really sure it will really matter much since the pack is the same length as the 45 and the 45 really only expands to the size necessary for what u are carrying.  Any thoughts?  

When I went I hiked up with a 65L pack, I took  a 30L BD speed (which I rolled up and strapped to the outside of the 65L) and used it while climbing.
My partner carried a 45L, and used it for everything.

Carrying camping stuff for a week + double rack + 2 ropes + summit beers -- its a big load to drag up to the hut/campground 

Tufa  Mochilla 

Bring the linked 18 for on route, but you'll definitely want something in the 60/65L range for the hike in or you'll be hating life. Basically what Cory said above.

You really want two packs for the bugs.  One "big pack" to haul your shit to Applebee.  Then a light ~20L pack for carrying on routes. The TUFA Mochilla is a perfect pack for using on routes, I bet your Linked 18 would also be great.  I used a 60L pack for my big pack.  I would not be able to fit all my stuff in an Alpha 45. That said, I like to be comfortable (a fifth of rum, good food) if I am going to be camping in the same place for a while.  I normally use small packs but I think most people will be happy with a big (60+L) pack for the bugs.

It's also worth noting that you can easily do a supply run to your car and back in like 4 hours on a rest day.

Also, I would bring a mountaineering tent rather than a backpacking tent.  My backpacking tent now has a bend in almost every pole section from being up there in a windstorm.  Several other people in camp had their tents collapse due to broken tent poles, which ended their trips early.

I used the Cilogear 60L and cilogear 30L strapped together and worked great. Could carry heavy items in the big bag and light items in the small bag. And I had room to spare.

Don't bring trangos, just approach shoes with light strap-on pons will be fine for almost everything and will fit in the small pack better or can be clipped to harness. Arc FL45 is way too small for the appraoch. I brought a 70L haul bag and BD 20L for routes.

I second this don't bring mountain boots approach shoes with strapon Crampons work great for everything up there. 

Briggs Lazalde wrote: 

Were both bags packed simultaneously? I may be reading it wrong but did u pull off 90L?

Both were packed, but not full. Everything was inside the bags (nothing strapped on the outside) 

I used my 60L backpack to hump my stuff for 2 weeks to the hut, inside that pack was my Cold Cold Work Valdez for the rock routes.

I stayed at the hut, so I did not carry camping stuff. Plus I did a re-supply hike back to the car mid-way through.

Nick Sweeney wrote: 

Also, I would bring a mountaineering tent rather than a backpacking tent.  My backpacking tent now has a bend in almost every pole section from being up there in a windstorm.  Several other people in camp had their tents collapse due to broken tent poles, which ended their trips early.

Also don't read "fatal storm" and leave that on your sleeping bag in the tent. Was it really the pole through the fly that cut my trip short, or your update that Natalie couldn't feed my cat (greatest discussion randomly running into each other at the base of the route award).

I'm going with the other comments on packs, I've used a 65l to schlep into camp and then the smallest speed on route. For footwear approach shoes and strap on alluminum pons did fine. 

I used a larger pack (65L) to shelp my load up and packed in the BD Blitz 20. This pack takes ice tools/axes, is light and packs down when empty, climbs really well, and is relatively affordable. I've been up there the last few summers in late July, early August and used approach shoes, ankle gaiters and microspikes to access Bugaboo, Pigeon, and S. Howser routes, without ever wishing I had more (i.e. crampons or mountaineering boots).