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Shoes for wide feet with Morton's Toe?

Original Post
Jeff Rumble · · Whittier, CA · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

I used to climb in Mad Rock Demon IIs.  With the wider toe box, a somewhat more symmetrical shape, and that seriously concaved sole in the forefoot, they were a perfect fit for my feet.  Then I blew up my ankle.  And after 6 years and 6 surgeries, I came back to discover that the shoe has been discontinued.  Now I'm stuck.

I have a wide foot, a somewhat high arch, and a moderate Morton's Toe.  That wouldn't be so tough if I wanted a softer flatter shoe.  But I don't.  I like a shoe that is aggressive, downturned, and stiff.  But when I try something like the Shaman, it feels as though there's about 1/3 inch of soft rubber out in front of my toe.  That makes it tougher to stand on little knobs & edges.

I'm thinking that maybe something Sportiva would give me the best toe contact, but that combination of wide, higher volume, symmetrical, stiff, and downturned is tough to find.  Maybe impossible. Anyone have any suggestions?

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

Scarpa maestro is quite wide, and seems to be good for Morton's toe

rkrum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 61

Wide forefoot, narrow low volume midfoot, high instep and arch. Also have Mortons toe.

I will sing praises of the scarpa boostic for all eternity. Stiffer than shit, great closure system and aggressive[ly supportive].

Helen El · · Toronto, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 341

I have a wide forefoot and narrow heels. Also have morton’s toe. I find La Sportiva just doesn’t work with my feet and Scarpas are more comfortable. Also found Butoras comfortable when I’ve tried them on, as well as the Tenaya Iati. No shoe ever really fits my heels that also fits my forefoot.

Jeff Rumble · · Whittier, CA · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks for the help.  A lot of the options (Evolv Shaman/Oracle, Sportiva Miura, etc.) feel as though there's too much rubber out in front of my toe.  And the Butora Accro's felt like "just a shoe."  And I'm having some trouble finding a brick & mortar with the various Scarpas in stock so that I can try them on.  That's partly because Gear Coop is an hour from me.  So far, though, I think that the Sportiva Otaki's are my leading candidate.

Still checking.  Once I buy, I'm going to be climbing in them for a year.  So I want to pick a shoe that I actually like.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

I have what I believe is called Egyptian toe (2nd and 3rd toe are the same length/longer than big toe), and I find the 5.10 Anasazi line to be a perfect fit.

George Foster · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 12

Butora acro. Just got a pair of the BD force that have a similar last but wider heel that seem to be working well.

Kelley Gilleran · · Meadow Vista · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,851

Scarpa Instinct vs 

Nathan · · Tel Aviv · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 170

Miura Laces!

Helen El · · Toronto, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 341

Try the Scarpa instinct VS. I just got a pair of the VSR (a bit softer than VS due to XS Grip2 rubber, but built on the same last) and they’re wide but really snug on the smaller end of my street shoe size.. breaking them in and they hurt still, but I tried 1/2 size up and didn’t like how that felt while climbing on small holds. The VS are stiffer as they have XS Edge rubber. I read reviews of people saying how the heel is amazingly snug but they’re still too big for me (I really do have a small heel, I guess!)

Joey Jarrell · · SLC · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 145
Mike Mellenthin wrote: FWIW I have Morton's toe and a high volume foot and the Shaman a half size up from street is the shoe I climb everything but cracks and Yosemite granite in. I agree with you on the lack of feel, but for me it's the only "performance" shoe that fits basically pain free from the box.

Speaking of, I'm curious if anyone with the same profile has tried the General? I'd love to replace my TC Pros with something that fits better.

The general worked for my Morton's Toe and low volume foot... Though I sized it WAY big so I could wear socks for easy alpine (cold) rock climbing

Jeff Rumble · · Whittier, CA · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Mike Mellenthin wrote: FWIW I have Morton's toe and a high volume foot and the Shaman a half size up from street is the shoe I climb everything but cracks and Yosemite granite in. I agree with you on the lack of feel, but for me it's the only "performance" shoe that fits basically pain free from the box.

I live close to Evolv's HQ in Buena Park, so I've been able to stop by their place and talk with them as I tried on their shoes.  The Shaman does come the closest for me... of their models.  But when I tried to step up onto their test wall, anytime I tried to step on a smaller foothold, my big toe failed to contact the front of the shoe.  And the rubber that was out in front of that toe felt too soft.  The shoe was the most comfortable as I slipped it on, but I don't think it's the right shoe for my foot.

I still kind of like the Sportiva Otaki, though it doesn't feel quite as aggressive or as supportive as I'd prefer.  I'm also waiting to try on the new Sportiva Testarossa when it shows up later this month.  And I'm probably going to try the Scarpa Boostic as well.  My problem there is that I can't seem to find it in a Brick & Mortar so that I can try it on!  I may have to just play the "Order & Return" game.
km ba · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Boostic, Otaki, Narsha are close to what you’re look for. 

Jeff Rumble · · Whittier, CA · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
km ba wrote: Boostic, Otaki, Narsha are close to what you’re look for. 

The Narsha sounds interesting, but I've never seen it.

I did just order (today) a couple likely-sounding sizes of the Boostic.  I read stories of blue feet (from the dye).  That sounds entertaining.  We'll see when they get here.
Karl Walters · · San Diego · Joined May 2017 · Points: 106

La Sportia Skwama, Testarossa, Katana Lace, Genius, Otaki, Kataki, possibly Python will all fit.  Of those the Katan, Otaki, and Kataki are stiffest and your foot's volume is going to determine how each fits. The Kataki is way too low volume for me unless sized up quite a bit and I prefer the Katana Lace fit over it. The Otaki is highest volume.

The problem is that your feet are never flat when they're in a downturned shoe and tend to bend. The effective width of your foot depends on it's asymmetry, the shoe asymmetry, etc. My friend loves Solutions, which are not very wide, but he has low volume asymmetric feet and when he scrunches them up the shoe is the perfect profile.

David Arredondo · · Austin, TX · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 15

I’ve found quantum laces do well with my wide forefoot, Morton’s toe, and high arches. It’s also plenty stiff.
I liked the fit better than the skwamas as well, which were supposed to be perfect for my type of feet.
Throwing it out there since no one else has mentioned it

Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,196

I'll second the Quantum lace.  I've got wide feet, no arches, fairly high volume and Morton's toe.  The Quantums are one of the most comfortable shoes I've owned.

Brandon Ribblett · · The road · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 80

+1 for scarpa in general. i have the boostics and they are my go to shoe for anything hard and edge dependent. i wear a 42.5 in most scarpa and had to size up to 43 in boostic. 

Karl Walters · · San Diego · Joined May 2017 · Points: 106

I feel most people dislike the Skwama because they do not downsize enough. The shoe stretches a lot, but you also have to want a decently soft shoe to like it in general.

Jeff Rumble · · Whittier, CA · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

I ordered the Boostics yesterday, so I assumed it'd be a week and a half or so before they arrived.  Apparently I was wrong.  They should arrive later today.  I'll be trying them on tonight.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 280

Evolv Oracle, Agro, and X1

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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