3rd BEST CRAG IN OREGON???

I'm curious where everyone will weigh in on this one.  We all know that Smith Rock and Trout Creek are objectively the best rock climbing destinations in the state.  However, what is the third best place to fondle stone?   I would have to say that Broughton Bluff is my personal choice; Its definitely a contender.   French's Dome???  Rattlesnake in Southern Oregon? Beacon Rock (even though its technically not in oregon)?   Viento?

French dome is super shady, great top out view, easy approach, you can show up and lead everything with mini belay ledges built in. It’s a party crag! Maybe not the best in most catagories, but’s it’s chill factor is way up there!

Salmon river slab hands down.

Although I usually bristle at Beacon being labeled as a 'Portland' crag, I do think it deserves it's rightful due as the "best Portland area crag".  Thus one of the best in Oregon(ish) aka one of the top 3.

I guess it depends on what you are looking for. Beacon is great for trad/old school/multi. Broughton for hard sport. Madrone for moderate trad. Ozone for an outdoor gym. Dropzone for a trad version of Ozone without the crowd.

 Flagstone, Wolf rock, the Honeycombs, the Callahans, the garden cliff. All good crags for you non Portlandians.

Aubrey Miller wrote:  Flagstone, Wolf rock, the Honeycombs, the Callahans, the garden cliff. All good crags for you non Portlandians.

I think Wolf Rock holds its own, largest monolith in the state...  

Jaren Watson wrote: Leslie Gulch.

Leslie Gulch probably could be if access wasn't an issue; also is the rock quality as bomber as the say the dihedrals at smith?

I would argue that Madrone, dropzone (far side) and Ozone are not nearly as good as Broughtons, the walls are just way too broken up and ledgy.  Whereas Red Wall, Bat Wall and Jungle Cliff are objectively stunning regardless of what grade you climb. 

Wolf rock is rad but how about Moolack?

Also last I checked beacon and ozone aren't in OR...

We really have to break it down by region...

For Portland to Mt Hood, it's tied between Broughton and Ozone, because of proximity to P-town, year-round access, and number of bolts. French's Dome is only climbable like 3-4 months out of the year. Klinger Spring takes the 3rd place position. Beacon should be, and Madrone would be, considered above these others, but they're closed six months out of the year for falcons (the extent of the former being absurd, in my somewhat-educated opinion). Then there's Viento Crag, Bulo, Area 51, Coethedral, among many others.

For the central valley, it's definitely the Garden, which seems great for bouldering, and the wall there is worth a visit if you live in the area. Flagstone and Wolf Rock suffer the same conditions as French's, but probably worse due to higher elevation.

For SW Oregon, it's definitely Rattlesnake. The Callahans are rad, but there are access issues - $75 pass per year, plus long slog to get in. The Honeycombs are growing in popularity, and deservedly so.  

For NE Oregon, it's definitely Spring Mountain.

Since none of these are destinations by themselves, I don't know how you'd determine which was actually the "third best". If taken objectively, without considering legal or seasonal access, it would have to be the Callahans for sheer number of routes and uniqueness of stone.

Y'all clearly haven't heard of the owl slab on Mary's peak.

Jokes aside I think 3rd best has to be Wolf Rock. Even if the climbing isn't the best the setting is epic.

Daniel Bookless wrote:

Leslie Gulch probably could be if access wasn't an issue; also is the rock quality as bomber as the say the dihedrals at smith?

I don't have first hand experience at Leslie Gulch, but I've heard that all of the solid Rock is featureless. Climbing magazine wrote a great article about the area, you should check it out if you haven't.

Callahan's. Sandstone climbing of a quality and quantity that would revitalize Roseburg if the timber company would sell it to the city. (Great MTB options too.)

Runner-up is Honeycombs. Epic views, fun climbs, cool rock. Just need some stronger climbers to get out there and bolt some stuff in the 11s and 12s to compete with Rattlesnake.

Jaren Watson wrote: Leslie Gulch.

Sadist.