endurance for lead climbing

Hello guys, what is best exercises to increase lead climbing endurance? Does the bouldering traverse gives us endurance for lead climbing? 

When it is cold or raining, I hit the plastic wearing a 20# vest.  Otherwise, just climb more longer routes.

For the endurances, it is best to make the climbings for much of the day.

I got big endurance benefit by doing circuits in the gym. Basically a really long (30+ move) V0/V1, which goes in a loop around the bouldering wall, so you can sit there and climb in loops until your fingers refuse to hold on any more. I did it regularly, and it worked, now it is rarely endurance that prevents me from finishing hard climbs. If only I knew something equally straightforward to improve my technique and power, I'd become a pretty good climber.

Eagle Mount wrote:  Does the bouldering traverse gives us endurance for lead climbing? 

Yes, precious.  It gives us the endurance.

Alan Emery wrote: When it is cold or raining, I hit the plastic wearing a 20# vest.  Otherwise, just climb more longer routes.

If you do this, make sure to start out light and get heavier gradually...I , ahem, didn't do this and have a SCREAMING case of tendonitis right now in both of my elbows, which is preventing me from doing any king of pull up type movement.  It sucks, but I am older and it may just be age.

In hind sight, I wish I had used a weight BELT, like those used in skydiving, instead of a vest. Weight Belt.

I flew base back when I did 4-way, so I never wore a vest or a belt.

Your question can be interpreted multiple ways - endurance to lead A pitch (have enough gas left to make the final crux move) or to climb all day and have enough gas left to lead that 20th pitch to the summit?  Since most people here are coming from the perspective of being gym/sport climbers I think the question and answers will focus on the former.  So you'll get a lot of 4x4, traverse, quick repeat/laps on routes slightly below your limit - the typical party lines.  Ironically all these approaches are more likely to help with your multi-pitch endurance. If your goal is to have the juice to finish one hard pitch I think you need to simulate that as closely as possible.  How long will it take?  - 5-10 minutes?  Why go out and spend most of your training doing 30-60 minutes exercises. How many 5 mile runs do you think Usain Bolt did?  But that kind of intensity can rapidly lead to injury. I think just climbing more in a variety of ways will get you pretty far.

For endurance almost anything will do as long as you stay on the wall continuously with as little rest and as hard as you can stand.

ECHO what  Eric said... sprinters in T&F don't do do distance workouts and vice versa... depends on what your trying to lead and how many pitches ... 

For me I'm trying to feel onsight solid on 5.9-5.10 trad where moves aren't tough, but I have to play with gear for possibly 1-2 minutes on tougher holds...  I use Auto Belays where I UP and DOWN climb for about 15-20 minutes straight. Pick something in that 10d/11a range and learn to take good rests. A lot of leading heady climbs is the uneasy feeling of being pumped and not knowing how to rest for 1-2 minutes on a rare jug in the route. So this burns the forearms but doesn't give them a real break from climbing, just forces active rest while mid route you need a break. Great way to end a session and really push those muscles. 

I'll lead climb for an hour straight with a partner and switch off. You can do one hour straight of moderate routes just climbing up and coming down or do easier routes and never come off the wall. This means down climbing and climb up on easy routes. It really forces you to climb efficiently and hold rests for a long time keeping you engaged in climbing. You could add a weighted vest to really build more enduro.

Also it helps you get comfortable lead belaying. The fun part is you're usually falling off of 5.8s or steep 5.9s by the end of the session if you really keep pushing it.

OP = Aleks 2.0

My wife only likes to top rope with me cuz I’m much heavier then she is and she hates getting pulled into the air. So when I back down from a route I say, “oh there’s one move I wanna stuck. I’m going back up!” and I head back for a second lap. Then when I get back down I say, “oh, this route next to it is easy and I saw something I need to work on” and I head back up for a third lap. By the end of a few of those my body is raging. And there you have my endurance workout

Jaren Watson wrote: Increasing endurance requires you to do more moves. The best way to achieve this is to do more moves.

Directions unclear - I'm in my 5th apartment in 6 months and I am not climbing any better.

ARC training.  Get on an easy autobelay route and just go up and down for as long as you can without touching the ground, shoot for 20-30 minutes (be nice and don't do this during peak hours)

Arnold Schwarzenegger says for real gains, counting reps begins when the pain begins. If your body's comfortable, you're getting warmed up. Try to stay on when you start hurting. Bam, you're conditioning endurance. If you're climbing while you're awake, you live for climbing and your body and mind becomes a climbing body and mind. If you only climb when it's convenient, for whatever reason, you'll stay weaker than the former alternative. Be that climber that has more endurance. Want more? Do more. 

Gunkiemike wrote:

Directions unclear - I'm in my 5th apartment in 6 months and I am not climbing any better.

Movements, not moves.  Gotta up your fiber, bro.

Cross train.  Do lots of core work, foam rolling, trail running, yoga, etc.  Focus on nutrition and life balance.  Stay off the plastic; your body will be better off which is the true path to endurance.

Paul Hutton wrote: Arnold Schwarzenegger says for real gains, counting reps begins when the pain begins. If your body's comfortable, you're getting warmed up. Try to stay on when you start hurting. Bam, you're conditioning endurance. If you're climbing while you're awake, you live for climbing and your body and mind becomes a climbing body and mind. If you only climb when it's convenient, for whatever reason, you'll stay weaker than the former alternative. Be that climber that has more endurance. Want more? Do more. 

While this is inspirational, the goal of bodybuilders is hypertrophy, or maximizing muscle volume. More muscle volume is exactly NOT what climbers want because it correlates with more mass: that's just more weight for us to drag up the rock. More mass would be fine if you get enough performance from those larger muscles to balance out the higher mass, and it's true that bodybuilders usually are pretty strong. However, if you compare weights on the big three lifts (deadlift, squat, bench) you'll find that many intermediate strength or power lifters can lift more than elite body builders. This suggests that optimal exercises for hypertrophy may not be the same as optimal exercises for performance.

Jaren Watson wrote: 

Do you disagree with Paul’s point, namely, that one should do more moves to increase endurance?

More moves at what intensity? Paul said more than what you're claiming he said.

Traditionally, bouldering traverses have been used to build endurance. I proved this to myself at Priest Draw in Flag. I had a circuit of five traverses that I did three times a week in between route climbing and free weights. My climbing improved significantly in a short amount of time. Just stay focused on a regular schedule of training. Also the topic of endurance is covered well in The Rock Climbers Training Manual.

Climb.