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Bugaboos trad rack

Original Post
GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Curious about recommendations for what to include the n an alpine trad rack to haul into the bugs..
Thanks 

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,245

Eye mask and ear plugs.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,592

Depends what you want to climb. Sunshine Crack, Becky-Chouinard and Pigeon spire don't exactly need the same rack.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,592
Josh Janes wrote: Eye mask and ear plugs.

+1. I don't know what's worse, the hut or the campground. It's so busy and noisy it's hard to get any sleep!

Ty Gilroy · · Great White North · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 10

Dont go

GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

hmmm gotcha, thanks.... looking at NE ridge and BC route .. defiantly going to go.. Id also welcome recommendations on similar climbing areas that are not so crowded and routes and the bugs that are great but get over looked... 5.10 or under.. thanks 

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,592
GDodds dodds wrote: hmmm gotcha, thanks.... looking at NE ridge and BC route .. 

Those are the busiest climbs at the bugs. Expect BIG crowds, start before dawn. I personally carried double set of cams to 3" in the bugs, but I'm a big weiner, YMMV. 

Lots of less crowded rountes on Snowpatch, just look at the guidebook. 
Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
GDodds dodds wrote: hmmm gotcha, thanks.... looking at NE ridge and BC route .. defiantly going to go..

Don't resist it bro!

Jani Vaaranpaa · · Kelowna, BC · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

Gdodds dodds, next valley West has Valhalla provincial park. It is home to the awesome Mt Gimli. 2 hour approach to the classic Ridge which goes at 5.10a and is in my opinion an absolute gem of great climbing and gear on a very attractive peak in the wilderness. Not to be missed. About 8 pitches with no bolts, a few pins and a great decent route.

Michael Catlett · · Middleburg, VA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 175

You boys are spoiled if you think the Bugs is crowded by today's standards. Just avoid the weekends and arrive on a Sunday.

I take one set of cams and lots of passive stuff. It is a long steep hump to carry all the hardware you may want. That will get you up most alpine lines and some good crag like hard lines.

garrett K · · salt lake city · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 179

I went to the bugs 2 summers ago and brought 2 racks .3-3 large set of nuts. 

I always figure, longer pitches save more time than the extra weight slows me down. 

Camp is busy but if you're waking up with the rest of camp who cares. Its more like a larhe base camp than a secluded alpine destination. Climbing is worth it though. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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