Sport climbing, why use quickdraws
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I'm just transitioning to outdoor climbing and probably won't be doing any lead climbing for years, but I was wondering why people use quickdraws instead of just a carabiner alone to clip into bolts when sport climbing. Is it just because it's easier to clip in that way, or is it somehow safer and more secure? |
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Think about the way a rope would torque the biner while moving it around, there is leverage that could unclip your rope while falling past if you just use a carabiner alone. Use you tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oke_4xJTtM |
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It's easier to clip, reduces rope drag, and reduces the possibility of the carabiner cross-loading on the bolt. |
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I use only a single carabiner when I’m lowering off a route I’m bailing on! Haha |
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reduces the drag of the rope (especially on longer terrain) allowing for the rope to snake its way up, vs., severe angling which makes the pull up to clip much harder |
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Dogbones vs. Alpine draws? Advantage. disadvantages on sport climbs? |
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Alpine draws are bulkier and harder to clip, but if you need to extend the distance from the bolt to reduce rope drag, there is really no substitute. |
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rob.calm wrote: Dogbones vs. Alpine draws? Advantage. disadvantages on sport climbs? A dog bone has a keeper for the carabiner on the end that keeps it positioned for easy clipping. Alpine draw biner is flipping around way to easily and this could lead to tears, decking or worse. The bone is also (ideally, see Petzl Spirit bone) is fat, rough and tough webbing that makes it easier to grab and clip when you are desperate. A real sport bone is not dynema (too slick). |
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Gavin Towey wrote:...when I climb trad, I use slings with only one biner, carried over my shoulder since the gear placements already have a one carabineer on it. So you rack all you nuts on their own single biner? |
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zoso wrote: If you primarily place cams and don't tend to place a lot of nuts, then all you have to do is carry a few individual carabiners to put on your stoppers when you place them. That's the way Beth Rodden does it here starting around 2:50 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4q5f6SPXGc |
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chris p wrote: I'm just transitioning to outdoor climbing and probably won't be doing any lead climbing for years Why not? |
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Robert S wrote: I'm planning to get into top roping outside. My climbing partner is my sister, but she is way behind me in climbing ability, so she won't want to climb trad for a while, especially since she just had a baby a few months ago. |
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zoso wrote: No, I use mostly cams and carry a few quickdraws for the stoppers. |
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Chris P. BITD it was common practice to use two biners when climbing bolted slab. - Not exactly sport climbing. When real sport happened, it was discovered that this didn’t work and biners would snap when it was overhanging! |
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chris p wrote: You can lead single pitch, sport without an issue. Clean your draws on the way down and then belay your sister on something she can climb. Edit- learn what you’re doing before you just jump on the sharp end. |
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Why use quickdraws? Cause the others are too slow. Now that might sound like a smart ass answer but in reality it is true. |
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Crap I've been doing it wrong this entire time - I've been untying the rope from my harness, and threading it through the bolt, then retying it to my harness. |
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Rope drag |