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Sport climbing, why use quickdraws

Original Post
chris p · · Meriden, CT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 556

I'm just transitioning to outdoor climbing and probably won't be doing any lead climbing for years, but I was wondering why people use quickdraws instead of just a carabiner alone to clip into bolts when sport climbing. Is it just because it's easier to clip in that way, or is it somehow safer and more secure? 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

Think about the way a rope would torque the biner while moving it around, there is leverage that could unclip your rope while falling past if you just use a carabiner alone. Use you tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oke_4xJTtM

And I think you should probably do some learning from a mentor.

Bryan K · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 652

It's easier to clip, reduces rope drag, and reduces the possibility of the carabiner cross-loading on the bolt.

Kyle Taylor · · Broomfield CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I use only a single carabiner when I’m lowering off a route I’m bailing on! Haha

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 14,020

reduces the drag of the rope (especially on longer terrain) allowing for the rope to snake its way up, vs., severe angling which makes the pull up to clip much harder

rob.calm · · Loveland, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 630

Dogbones vs. Alpine draws? Advantage. disadvantages on sport climbs? 

Gavin Towey · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Alpine draws are bulkier and harder to clip, but if you need to extend the distance from the bolt to reduce rope drag, there is really no substitute.

I actually find though that I almost never use true alpine draws. The sport routes I've encountered are rarely bolted in a way that demands extension, and when I climb trad, I use slings with only one biner, carried over my shoulder since the gear placements already have a one carabineer on it. 

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
rob.calm wrote: Dogbones vs. Alpine draws? Advantage. disadvantages on sport climbs? 

A dog bone has a keeper for the carabiner on the end that keeps it positioned for easy clipping. Alpine draw biner is flipping around way to easily and this could lead to tears, decking or worse.

The bone is also (ideally, see Petzl Spirit bone) is fat, rough and tough webbing that makes it easier to grab and clip when you are desperate. A real sport bone is not dynema (too slick).
zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 791
Gavin Towey wrote:...when I climb trad, I use slings with only one biner, carried over my shoulder since the gear placements already have a one carabineer on it. 

So you rack all you nuts on their own single biner? 

Bryan K · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 652
zoso wrote:

So you rack all you nuts on their own single biner? 

If you primarily place cams and don't tend to place a lot of nuts, then all you have to do is carry a few individual carabiners to put on your stoppers when you place them.  That's the way Beth Rodden does it here starting around 2:50 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4q5f6SPXGc

Robert S · · Driftwood, TX · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 661
chris p wrote: I'm just transitioning to outdoor climbing and probably won't be doing any lead climbing for years

Why not?

chris p · · Meriden, CT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 556
Robert S wrote:

Why not?

I'm planning to get into top roping outside. My climbing partner is my sister, but she is way behind me in climbing ability, so she won't want to climb trad for a while, especially since she just had a baby a few months ago. 

Gavin Towey · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
zoso wrote:

So you rack all you nuts on their own single biner? 

No, I use mostly cams and carry a few quickdraws for the stoppers. 

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Chris P. BITD it was common practice to use two biners when climbing bolted slab. - Not exactly sport climbing. When real sport happened, it was discovered that this didn’t work and biners would snap when it was overhanging!
The short Dog Bone, with a rubber keeper on the rope end is the best for the job. Especially if you use large biners, Not tiny wire gate ones.
Go lead stuff, most sport is made to lead.
Have fun

Climb On · · Everywhere · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0
chris p wrote:

I'm planning to get into top roping outside. My climbing partner is my sister, but she is way behind me in climbing ability, so she won't want to climb trad for a while, especially since she just had a baby a few months ago. 

You can lead single pitch, sport without an issue. Clean your draws on the way down and then belay your sister on something she can climb. 

Edit- learn what you’re doing before you just jump on the sharp end. 
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

Why use quickdraws? Cause the others are too slow. Now that might sound like a smart ass answer but in reality it is true.

BITD the day one would have slings slung over their shoulder. In many cases, one would have to release one hand, pull the sling off, grab the rock again, release the other hand, then finally clip the gear and rope. Fine for moderate grades but not for harder grades. By doubling or tripling the sling and attaching two biners one could clip the sling to the gear loops on one's harness. And like gun slinger who draws quick or is shot dead, a rope gun can quickly get a sling on the gear and rope before they fall. Thus the name quick draw.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

Crap I've been doing it wrong this entire time - I've been untying the rope from my harness, and threading it through the bolt, then retying it to my harness.

what have I done with my life.

Travis Bieber · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,216

Rope drag

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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