Arc’teryx Nuclei replacement

Hi folks,

Since I bought it in 2014, an Arc’teryx nuclei has been my primary belay/climbing insulation piece.  It’s been awesome, but I’m sure the insulation is getting less effective, and on my last trip the zipper pull got ripped off.  I’m trying to get that fixed, but been looking around for a replacement, and am not really seeing anything equivalent.  This is the model that has 80g insulation in torso and hood, and lighter wt in the arms. (I guess they started calling it nuclei FL the year after I bought mine)

I love the simple elastic hood that fits well on head or helmet, the warmth and packability (more insulation in torso) and the outer fabric has been plenty durable for me.  

Only thing I’ve found that compares is the Nunatak Shaka Apex, which may be what I end up with.  Anything else to look at?  

The jackets that come closest to the Nuclei Hoody and Nuclei FL Hoody that are available now, are the heavier Rab Xenon X jacket and TNF Summit L3 Proprius Primaloft hoodie.

They are about 50g heavier due to extra chest pocket and both use Primaloft Gold Active Insulation 60gsm throughout. Rab Xenon X comes with 2 way zipper which is better for use with a harness and belaying. However, you may need to size up since the Rab is trim fitting.

If you don’t mind the extra 100g weight and additional warmth, you could get the Nuclei AR. There may be deals happening now for past season colors.

I'm in the same boat and haven't seen a better option on the market than nunatak is offering. Seems that a lot of manufacturers have forgotten that not everyone needs "active" insulation at all times.

This has me wondering about the skaha though: "The Hoodie version features an integrated standard sized insulated hood, however, not readily helmet compatible." I use the hood on my belay jacket a ton, that would really kill it's utility.  

I had a Nuclei which I thought was good, not great.
Came across a Rab Xenon X on sale and bought it - like it better than the nuclei,
I’m 5,9- slim and the Rab has more length, nicer with the bottom zip option, fit is better as in less constricted, I like the hood fit more, blocks wind but also breathes better than the nuclei and drys way faster.
I now have two, a small and a medium and layer them for conditions and often do not bring my big puffy ice climbing.
I also have a patagonia micro puff hoodie - lighter, warm as Rab , does not breath as well/ wets out faster from inside, stitches catch on everything.
Big fan of the Rab.

zimick wrote: I had a Nuclei which I thought was good, not great.
Came across a Rab Xenon X on sale and bought it - like it better than the nuclei,
I’m 5,9- slim and the Rab has more length, nicer with the bottom zip option, fit is better as in less constricted, I like the hood fit more, blocks wind but also breathes better than the nuclei and drys way faster.
I now have two, a small and a medium and layer them for conditions and often do not bring my big puffy ice climbing.
I also have a patagonia micro puff hoodie - lighter, warm as Rab , does not breath as well/ wets out faster from inside, stitches catch on everything.
Big fan of the Rab.

Hows the durability of the insulation in the rab xenon? I've heard not so great things about primaloft gold in terms of longevity but they're using primaloft gold active now and curious as to how that insulation holds up to stuffing

Not sure I get the Nunatak Skaha Apex. They’re awfully expensive. I have played around with the configurator and always end up at $300+. That’s practically Arc’teryx or Patagonia price, except those can be had on sale pretty easily, so they end up cheaper.

 Then there’s the currently 12 week wait time, inferior cut and fit, lack of a two way zipper, additional charges for every optional feature like a chest pocket, and lack of a warranty comparable to some of the better manufacturers. I just don’t see the value. 

Nunatak is made in the USA by a small company paying its workers a living wage, unlike deadbird and patagucci. That may appeal to your definition of "value" or it may not. Their stuff is high quality. Climashield continuous insulation has been around and is proven. And every piece is made to order so if the cut/fit is inferior I have to wonder if you gave them the right measurements. Patagonia and Arc'teryx produce fine stuff, but I think the comparison is silly. 

jdejace wrote: Nunatak is made in the USA by a small company paying its workers a living wage, unlike deadbird and patagucci. That may appeal to your definition of "value" or it may not. Their stuff is high quality. Climashield continuous insulation has been around and is proven. And every piece is made to order so if the cut/fit is inferior I have to wonder if you gave them the right measurements. Patagonia and Arc'teryx produce fine stuff, but I think the comparison is silly. 

They’re jackets that serve the same purpose, and people regularly cross shop them. So no, the comparison is not “silly”

It's silly that your main complaint is price when you're looking at totally different production processes. It is a custom item made here. It does not go on "sale" because the retail price is the actual cost of manufacture, not a multiple of the price paid to the Chinese factory. 

12 weeks - typical for custom stuff

Pay for options - typical for custom stuff

Fit - it's made to measure

2 way zip - the Skaha is a pullover, but you could ask for one on the PCT probably

Warranty - sure, it's hard to have the iron clad warranty that people expect in 2019 when you don't have a warehouse of cheap Chinese shit to replace stuff with. I'm sure they'd fix your jacket if there was a problem. 

I really don’t care about the manufacturing process. Thwy are products meant to accomplish the same thing, and for me the only things that really matter are price and quality. Not to mention that every review I have seen touts price as an advantage, and I think that’s misleading for reasons stated.

Besides, the Chinese got to eat too. And they make some pretty excellent stuff when they want to. 

The fit is baggy. It looks like a trash bag even on a mannequin. And that’s because it has to be. The fabric is not stretchy and the cut is very primitive, lacking features that allow the jacket to conform to the body. 

If warmth to weight is the deciding factor, it’s the thing to get, but otherwise I don’t see it. Why go custom when off the rack works fine?

It seems like we're talking in circles so I'll stop after this. The fit - it is made to measure. If it's baggy it's your fault. I would opt for a slightly looser fit with a pullover than a jacket because you need that to put it on. 

This thread is about a belay jacket. It does not need to conform to the body, it needs to loft. No company is using stretchy fabrics for substantial portions of belay jackets. My Arc'teryx Dually and Patagonia DAS look like trash bags too. 

I actually don’t mind a baggy fit. If the price is right. 

Thanks for the comments everyone.

Nate Drake,  I agree I’m dubious about the shaka hood.  With that said, I don’t know if the nuclei hood is really supposed to be “helmet compatible”, but it’s just big enough to fit over my sirocco, and not billowy on my bare head, which for me is ideal.

I agree, the Shaka gets $$$ AF when I put in all the options I want. Don’t really want to spend all that.  I do think I’d like the kangeroo pocket vs zippered hand pockets though: I never jeep anything in those pockets, and the zippers irritate my hips when under hipbelt.  Does anybody know if any of the Shaka face fabrics are 20d or greater?  That was the shell on the Nuclei I beleive, and it’s held up fine, wouldn’t want to go lighter really, cause occasionally when it’s cold af I climb in it.  

Ive looked at the Xenon X, but Ive tried a lot Rab tops, and they never fit me good.  I am 5’8” 170, rab is always tight is the shoulders/armpits/arms, and baggy in the torso.  Boooonk....

Hmmm...the search continues 

You can get 20d fabric on the Nunatak if you ask I'm sure. 

Daniel - you should  try on a Xenon, my experience with RAB is that they have two basic fits. The regular consumer , which tends , for me, to be tight in shoulders and armpits wth shapeless body and the “alpine/ climbing” ft which I’d more open in shoulders and armpits but with more shape in body.
I just returned a microlight down sweater in small that was a crap fit and my other three Rab pieces fit me great...
Gumbie- I’m in my first season with the xenon so not sure how it will hold up loft wise. I keep my stuff a long time, don’t abuse it etc but I figure a jacket like this has a three year prime life? I don’t know but I do know the xenon is solidly better ( to me) than the nuclei or the micropuff.
To weigh in on another “ debate” here I got both my xenons on sale for 160ish each. The Nunatak price out high. I’m not against custom, or paying more for the right performance but I don’t see the Nanatak being worth almost twice regardless of who makes it. Cripes I own a Cilogear... but figure the 30 in bulletproof fabric is my “ last”  pack I will get in that size, so that was my twisted justification. Lol
It’s a funny game we all play looking for the elusive “ right” piece and what works for us is all somewha individual based. I love reading gear lists- Colin Hailey with a windshirt as a baselayer... works for him!

Daniel Chambo wrote: 
and on my last trip the zipper pull got ripped off.  I’m trying to get that fixed, but been looking around for a replacement, and am not really seeing anything equivalent

If the broken zipper was not due to regular wear and tear, have you contacted Arc'teryx to see if they can provide you a free warranty replacement, with the new 2019 Nuclie FL jacket? 

The only changes is that it appears to now use Arato 10r 10D face fabric and Coreloft Continuous aka rebranded Climashield Apex 65gsm insulation and 2 inner stuff pockets.

If you're looking for 80 gsm of insulation, Mountain Equipment Prophet. Better than the Rab Xenon that has been suggested further up the thread.

However, I would also look at the Mountain Equipment Fitzroy (100 gsm of Primaloft Gold) if you're after a light belay jacket as it's much better at keeping the wind out and shedding off snow/ice drips.

Have you considered the new Arc’teryx Nuclei?

Looks like it’s 65g Coreloft throughout and 10D Arato fabric. Believe this is the same as my old FL

Mike Lofgren wrote: Have you considered the new Arc’teryx Nuclei?

Looks like it’s 65g Coreloft throughout and 10D Arato fabric. Believe this is the same as my old FL

Original nuclei was 80 in the torso