Summer Sierra Alpine Kit, Jacket/Clothing Recommendations

Trying to decide the ultimate Sierra alpine clothing kit. I have an Arc'Teryx Atom but have often thought it not very warm. My shell is a Patagonia Houdini, and although it's light, it is not waterproof.

Any recommendations on a better insulation jacket, maybe something that's good to climb in and a lightweight WATERPROOF shell?

You talking summer alpine rock?  

The lightest waterproof shells are 6-8 oz, along the lines of a OR Helium, BD Fineline, Patagonia Storm Racer.  Anything this light is going to be fragile.  It will get shredded in a chimney.  I always bring a light waterproof shell in the alpine, but I usually just have it stuffed at the bottom of my pack as insurance against a thunderstorm, I don't often climb in it because it's fragile and doesn't breathe well.  I prefer the BD Fineline.  It's inexpensive, well made, stuffs into its own pocket for clipping on the harness, and it has some stretch to it if you need to climb in it.  

Patagonia Micro Puff is a pretty sweet insulating jacket for summer alpine rock.  It's light, packable, and warm.  I like the idea of a synthetic jacket in case it gets a little wet in a thunderstorm.  But again, anything this light will be fragile.  I usually have it in the pack as insurance but don't often climb in it.  It's easy to clip to the harness and use as a belay jacket when you're standing still.  I typically find it too warm for summer alpine rock to actually climb in.  

Obviously depends on temps/sun aspect/winds, but my typical kit is something like this.  Light T-shirt.  Over this I wear a mid weight capilene or if it's a little cooler a heavier hooded base layer like the Patagonia Thermal weight capilene hoody.  Hooded base layers are sweet.  When it's cold the hood provides a lot of warmth.  Plus some sun coverage.  If it's warm and a sunny aspect I might do a light sun hoody instead of a capilene.  Something like the Patagonia Tropic Comfort Hoody.  A super light weight hat comes along if my shirt doesn't have a hood.  

I prefer to climb in a light soft shell as opposed to a rain shell.  More breathable and flexible.  The Houdini is sweet for hiking and running but isn't very durable for rock climbing.  I prefer a super light soft shell like the BD Alpine Start Hoody. It's light, breathable, cuts some wind, packable (clips to the harness easily) and stands up to climbing.  

If it's cold I'll add a mid-layer like a light vest under the softshell.  Something like an arc teryx atom SL vest.  Or for an even colder outing the breathable insulation is great, something like a Patagonia Nano Air light hybrid jacket in between the capilene and the soft shell.  

In the Sierra it's typically sunny and not too cold in the summer.  The above system has worked fine for me.  I'm sure there's a million opinions on this matter.  But no single system will work for all days.  Depends so much on the season, elevation, sun aspect, and winds that day.  It's not uncommon to be cold as hell at sunrise and overheating as the day gets warmer.  I've climbed in a T-shirt up high and I've shivered miserably in the shade when it's windy.  I like clothing that is light, packable, versatile, and breathes well enough if I'm a little over-heated.  Usually you have at least 1 pack for the team in the alpine, so stuffing a super light rain shell and maybe 1 puffy to share between the 2 of you in the pack isn't typically that big of a deal.

I'll add this as well: there's a couple newer pieces I've looked at but haven't actually worn that look great for summer alpine rock.  

Patagonia R1 tech face hoody seems to combine the mid layer and soft shell pretty well.  I've handled one in the store.  Seems like it will cut some wind and stand up to the abuses of climbing better than your standard mid layer.  Reviews are favorable.  

The Rab Kinetic Plus jacket also looks pretty sweet.  Soft shell with a waterproof membrane.  If reviews are accurate it looks more breathable than your standard rain shell.  Plus more durable for climbing and should move way better than your average hard shell.  The idea of a soft shell you can climb in that is waterproof enough for a thunderstorm sounds sweet.  

Oh yeah, the Rab Xenon X is another great lightweight synthetic puffy that is very warm for the weight.  

Sierra summer gear?  A long-sleeve wool shirt and a $5-or-less poncho.

For summer trips (late May to mid October) I take an OR Helium jacket and pants (leave at home if the weather is fine), and a Ghost Whisperer jacket. I have a lightweight Capilene long sleeved top. Some long underwear bottoms, just in case. Pirana Zion stretch pants. WIndstopper gloves, and a beanie, maybe a spare pair of socks.

For summer alpine rock I would take: 

Merino t-shirt short sleeves (breath and dry well) I know many prefer long sleeves 

Patagonia r1 pullover (good amount of warmth)

Super lightweight softshell (to keep your body’s warm, protect you from the wind and small precipitations) mine is a la sportiva albignia but you can find many others

If you keep moving that should already be more than enough but I would also take:

A lightweight hard shell in the backpack as a just in case piece (max 400 grams, mine, the RAB flashpoint is 185 grams)

From what I see you don’t need to take a small down jacket for the temperatures you will encounter in the summer there.

For the bottom a lightweight softshell pants with vent zippers will be nice. No long johns needed. 

My typical setup is pretty similar to others:

• sun hoody (bd alpenglow, rab pulse, etc) - i probably spend 90% or more of my time just wearing this.  there have been quite a few days and even complete trips where this was the only layer i wore the entire time.
• light or medium wind shirt (BD alpine start or BD BDV Alpine jacket) - in particular the BDV is tough as balls and just right on a slightly chilly day
• either a light fleece, or a light/medium puffy depending on the forecast.  sometimes i might skip this layer.
• waterproof/rain layer - depending on forecast this would be an OR helium / rab flashpoint, or a goretex jacket if it looks super shitty (BD sharp end or something like that, can't remember)
• a spare pair of socks for the hike out :)

in some ways, i pretty much always bring one layer too much, but on numerous occasions i have had a partner who brought one layer too few so it ended up working out ok.