Doing it in the dark...

Yeah, clickbait, but hey, that's my gift to my fellow cubicle dwellers...

Pretty simple. I expect this season may be when some night climbing happens. Any tips, tricks, pointers, or just stories to share?

I'll point out this is the beginners forum, so don't be too snarky. And yes, I own a headlamp, but so far, I've only used it for an alpine start approach hike, trying to find my damn tent at Smith in the dark, and, a couple weeks ago, climbing. At the gym! One bank of lights was broken, lol!

Best, Helen

You would deliberately climb in the dark? That doesn't sound fun, even though there is a small segment of climbers that think it is "cool."

I actually prefer to climb in the dark (under headlamp), makes it so there is nothing to focus on but the climbing right in front of you. The quietness of the night is also amazing when you are trying hard and focused. As far as tips for climbing outdoors under a headlamp, it can be equated to when you first start leading, you worry about everything. Therefore treat it as you did when you first started leading and start on routes you have done before that you are comfortable on. 

Start a grade or two lower until you get used to it. It may take you a couple extra moments to find the holds. Enjoy!

I first learned to climb in Yosemite one summer, almost always after work, in the dark. It's not much different, just bring a super bright headlamp that has a fairly wide area of illumination. Very peaceful except for the mayflies dive-bombing your headlamp.

I would aim for doing a few cracks or some straight forward aid. Easy to follow the route and builds some night confidence.

FrankPS wrote: You would deliberately climb in the dark? That doesn't sound fun, even though there is a small segment of climbers that think it is "cool."

Yup. I already have, dear, twice. :-)

It was fun, actually, especially the ridiculousness of needing a headlamp at the gym.

Frank, we aren't talking about caving. I mean outside, and merely night time. I'm already planning climbing trips, including a mid August one to a (probably) hot locale. Clear night, bazillions of stars, a nice moon? I'm not necessarily seeking it out, but I'm not aiming to avoid it, either, especially in the predawn hours, or, finishing up some single pitch run with an easy walk back. 

Best, Helen

Did this a bit last summer. It was fun. Some random advice:

1. Bring extra headlamp batteries AND extra headlamps. This is your ability to see!
2. Climb well below your limit. It's more difficult to climb in the dark.
3. If you start getting swarmed by moths, just turn your headlamp off and wait a minute.

Climbing standard route on Whitehorse ledge by a full moon without a headlamp(had one on me but wanted to just do it by moonlight) was one of the most enjoyable climbs of the summer. Super peaceful and quiet and a lot of fun. Didn’t think about how evaluating gear placements might be a little more suspect by feel though... I would definitely recommend climbing well easier routes, or better yet, a climb you’re familiar with. 

If you're going to do it, I'd say mellow 4th/5th class scrambles during a full moon is the best time to do it.

There's a regular Tuesday night climb here in Austin that I've been enjoying.  The routes here are all very short, so it's no big deal to use one of those battery powered worklights to light a whole route.  You still need a headlamp, though.

It's fun.  

TBH, it's not that so different than daytime climbing (at least in this particular short sport climbing instance), so I dunno if there are any real pointers or anything.   I'd much rather be outside than at the gym.

FrankPS wrote: You would deliberately climb in the dark? That doesn't sound fun, even though there is a small segment of climbers that think it is "cool."

Has there ever been an Old lady H thread where the first reply wasn't you saying something negative about it?  

I did a few evening after-work trips where we set up several top-ropes while it was still light, and continued to run laps after dark.  Bouldering in the dark, where several people can shine their headlamps on the rock at once was fun as well.  I led one moderate trad pitch intentionally in the dark to see what it would be like.  It was less difficult/scary than I expected, but also not as fun as climbing when it's light out.

I love night climbing. I feel it’s a practical way for regular people to get time on real rock and balance family and work.
I rode mtb before climbing and night rides are very common in that community. Which imho, is much scarier than night climbing. In the last 10 years the lumen/$ and lumen/oz ratio have come down so low anyone can get a decent light setup. A bd spot/revolt/storm is great for night climbing. You typically only need to see a few feet around you. You have your own little world up there. 
Night climbing only sounds scary, like the way day climbing sounds to a non climber. You need to be sure of your systems and how not to die. You probably already could guess that.
Most slab routes are actually easier at night because of the contrast when looking down at feet.
Anything overhung is harder because you sometimes can’t see your feet at all. 
Trad placements can be harder or easier depending on whether you can get your light into the weakness.
Vertical sport or tr is the same as day once the novelty wears off. Night climbing opens up seasonal crags that would be too hot except on the coldest days (Tucson) and the desert is beautiful at night. 

 Personally, I think of being prepared to climb in the dark as a back up. Normally, I would prefer to finish climbing before dark.  However, I would advocate doing it once or twice now and then just for the “refresher“.

 Of course, things tend to go slower in the dark as well. 

BRING EXTRA BATTERIES! There's nothing to make a terrifying pitch like a dead light. I spent 95 feet climbing in complete darkness while following and it was terrifying.

I occasionally climb routes in Little Cottonwood at night during the summer. It's much more enjoyable than climbing during an August day....I just put on a headlamp and go. As a belayer, it can be difficult to see what the climber is doing at times, but other than that, you shouldn't have any problems.

It's best to do it on a night that has a full moon or an almost full moon. Crags with lighter colored rock are also better than darker rock for obvious reason. And, as others have mentioned, start out really easy as it can be more difficult. It can be really interesting to do a climb that you know very well and climb frequently as it can feel almost like a new climb when it's dark out because your ability to read the route visually can be impaired by the dark (therefore, it may feel different because you might actually be using different holds). 

I like night climbing. It is peaceful and adds a little spice to some boring routes.
Don't use an overly bright lamp, use an adjustable one. If its too bright a lot of features disappear.

I’ve found some slab climbing can be easier by headlamp than full sun. Those little dishes tend to be easier to see with a direct beam casting a shade of a shadow.