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Clothing for Denali

Original Post
A P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Hello,
I know this subject has been discussed a bit, but I would like input of my layering system for Denali (in order of layering):

Base layer: ice breaker 200 long sleeve

2nd layer: ice breaker ellipse hoodie, https://ca.icebreaker.com/en/mens-sweaters/merinoloft-ellipse-long-sleeve-half-zip-hood/103047.html

Mid layer: Mountain Hardware Nitrous down hoodie

Hard shell: Arc'teryx alpha SV

Insulated shell: Arc'teryx Kappa hoodie,
https://arcteryx.com/ca/en/shop/mens/kappa-hoody

Parka: North Face L6 belay,
https://www.backcountry.com/the-north-face-summit-l6-down-belay-hooded-parka-mens

All together everything fits a little tight, but should be fine. Should I be okay for the cold temperature on Denali? I also have a OR Ferossi that I can throw on for work days.

Any recommendations? Is the L6 warm enough to for summit?

David Maver · · Philadelphia PA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

I've never climbed Denali, but some thoughts that don't require that experience are:

Why carry both a hard shell and an insulated shell? You're carrying a shell twice. Why not have an insulated piece of the some weight that can fit under the shell you're already carrying.

On shells, the SV is heavier and more expensive than other shells you could use (AR, LT, etc).

Also, have you used any other layers together in situations prior to Denali to see how they interact together? With your harness? With your pack?

christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 306

No need for a heavy duty hard shell. I would take a very lightweight rain jacket. You will most likely not use this layer.

christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 306

my summit day layering was

-Buff
-Sunglasses
-Ball Cap
-patagonia full body r1 base layer
-fleece farmer john salopette
-lightweight three layer ski touring pant
-windbreaker jacket
-marmot variant jacket
-mt hardware nitrous
-BD stance Belay parka
-BD guide glove
-40 below overboots on Dynafit TLT 5 boots (w/ custom closed cell foam footbeds under the liner for extra warmth)
-Closed cell foam wrapped around top of ice axe

Melanie Shea · · Denver · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

What Christoph said about wrapping the head of the ice axe is spot-on. I recommend just carrying a bit of synthetic handlebar wrap and just putting it on for summit day, otherwise it'll get trashed by the time you get up there.

K Weber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 15

TNF baltoro jacket is the standard.  Look at the specs.  With sleeping bags and jackets you should see how many pounds of insulation is in them.  Denali is cold and why suffer while you sleep.

My summit day was the warmest of a May climb.  All kinds of weather and temps are possible.  There wasn't a day above freezing though.

I am sure you are researching and all the standard tips are good.

A P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks for the great info, I might just throw in a very lightweight windbreaker. Christoph our system is quite similar, you never got cold on the mountain?

K Weber, you still think I should exchange for a bigger puffy parka for extreme weather?

On a side note, I have a 650 fill power down sleeping bag with 1500g fill weight. I have tested it down to 15 deg only and was fine with 2 base layers on. I'm not sure if I should invest in a 800 fill down bag to cut on weight, they are pretty expensive thought but I would hate to be cold at night.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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