lightweight climbing backpack options

Hey guys! I've been doing a lot of research on different daypacks, and I've narrowed it down to a few options that I like. I'm open to other suggestions too though.
I would mostly use this pack for day trips both hiking and climbing. I do a bit of technical climbing so I want it to be lightweight and versatile, and not more than 30 L.
The first options that I looked at are both the Black Diamond Speed 22 and the Speed Zip 24 (A bit cheaper but still decent quality)
The next option is the Osprey Mutant 22 (I really like their warranty)
and lastly the Arc'teryx AR 20 (I like the Arc'teryx brand but not the size as much for this one)
What has your experience been with these backpacks? Any other options or suggestions?

Do more research!

At the very least you need to re-think those choices!

Fish products

https://tufaclimbing.com/  >as you will see, a favorite<

Cold Cold World

Metolius

Mammut

Marmot

Mnt Hardware

Mnt Co Op

REI

 

(I'm in the middle of something right now ^ will add more if necessary)

,  ,  ,  ,,   e · Jun 28, 2016 ·

NEAlpineStart wrote:
This season I got to test two that I liked for different reasons. The Ortovox Trad 25:  nealpinestart.com/2016/05/2… And the Petzl Bug: nealpinestart.com/2016/06/2…
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ __

Thanx , excellent reviews
Both of those sound excellent!

And I'm A big fan of the Petzel, Bug's
Open full length -map/Topo/picture- pocket.
In a larger size pack (35-55L) it is a great feature.

1st I would close it, stitch, a full-length Velcro 'storm flap'.( have professionally done)

Then depending, on needs It adds a versatility, one can 'sandwich',
space blanket/bivy, - from a stiff plastic, to ti a tri-fold pad, good for alpine starts/overnights

. . . . .

Also as per customized gear,

I know & add;

I don't think, any self-customized gear (available/ customized) is guiding protocol,  ....Adding 6mil is far from standardized. Ymmv.

For short afternoons &  Handing to day-visitors, who show up without or with sub-standard options;

I have been very happy with the durability of Lowe Alpine's Onyx 20.  A no frills day pack
no waist or sternum strap (a negative) I have added both, using a chalk bag belts.
 & 6mil, cord loops across the bottom front of the packs to allow carrying jackets etc..
(for a small amount of money, with easy changes - streamline, light  weight, but bomb proof ,  I bought 2)

Mitch Hubbard wroteI would mostly use this pack for day trips both hiking and climbing. I do a bit of technical climbing so I want it to be lightweight and versatile, and not more than 30 L.

Please be a little more specific. What type of climbing are you doing? I see you are from Rexburg so are you looking for a pack to crag around at Pointless or Paramount? Excursions to City of Rocks? Alpine stuff in the Tetons? 

My initial suggestions are the Tufa Mochilla or the Ortovox TRAD 25.

Patagonia linked 18 is really more like a 25L with the expanded collar and in my opinion the perfect leader pack. They make a 28L if that’s too small for you. 

+1 for the Patagonia linked, since you're into warranties. Only problem with the Linked is the waist straps have a weird system and they fall off somewhat easily. 

Cilogear

Tufa Mochilla

The cheap 20 liter backpacks from REI work great! frameless and light af

Tufa. Rides higher and thinner at the bottom for unhindered access to rear of your harness while climbing. My favorite climbing pack ever.

If you order a Cilogear Worksack 20 today you may have it by whenever, depending on their backlog. They ride nice and can be collapsed at the bottom to get better access to rear of harness.

Support small climber owned businesses :-)

Briggs Lazalde wrote: I just watched a youtube video on the tufa mochilla....that really does seem like an amazing pack I was unaware of. Is there a sleeve on the inside for a small sitpad/backpad? The shape doesn't lend itself to look comfy when loaded but after all the reviews and how much that guy loaded in the pack they seem great.

see this thread:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113342669/tufa-mochilla-packs

there's a sleeve with a pad, and a zippered flap compartment inside

Osprey Mutants are quite satisfactory. 

this has become my favorite small pack https://www.blueice.com/us/en/home/126-squirrel-22l-pack.html?selectshop_zone=AM I have and use the Cilo20 but the rope carry and overall comfort of the Squirrel is better 

I dig the Gossamer Gear 26L summit pack. 

bearded sam wrote: this has become my favorite small pack https://www.blueice.com/us/en/home/126-squirrel-22l-pack.html?selectshop_zone=AM I have and use the Cilo20 but the rope carry and overall comfort of the Squirrel is better 

Also my favorite small pack, wife and I both have one

Mitch Hubbard wrote: Hey guys! I've been doing a lot of research on different daypacks, and I've narrowed it down to a few options that I like. I'm open to other suggestions too though.
I would mostly use this pack for day trips both hiking and climbing. I do a bit of technical climbing so I want it to be lightweight and versatile, and not more than 30 L.
The first options that I looked at are both the Black Diamond Speed 22 and the Speed Zip 24 (A bit cheaper but still decent quality)
The next option is the Osprey Mutant 22 (I really like their warranty)
and lastly the Arc'teryx AR 20 (I like the Arc'teryx brand but not the size as much for this one)
What has your experience been with these backpacks? Any other options or suggestions?

Quite randomly I just put 2 up for sale that very much would fit tour needs. Checkout my listing in the FS forum.  They’re what I settlednon for a planned trip that fell through 

Briggs Lazalde wrote: I just watched a youtube video on the tufa mochilla....that really does seem like an amazing pack I was unaware of. Is there a sleeve on the inside for a small sitpad/backpad? The shape doesn't lend itself to look comfy when loaded but after all the reviews and how much that guy loaded in the pack they seem great.

Briggs, they are the jam! I have two - one in VX-21 fabric and one made of some kind of crazy dyneema stuff.  I do all of my in-a-day climbing with one.  Josh added a few custom options for me that make them the perfect pack for single-day alpine rock missions.

Josh at Tufa is on here regularly. Send him a message. He's quick to respond: https://www.mountainproject.com/user/106546689/josh-kornish

If it was the Mochilla stuffing video on Tufa's site, that was me. I own 3 of them: two in D40 Dyneema and one in a lightweight DCF. Best daypacks ever. He may be willing to put in a longer, doubled-over back pad in the sleeve for you. He was willing to do that for me last year.

Another vote for Tufa. Fits a ton of shit. I use mine for both hiking, climbing and skiing.

On an FA in the valley a couple years ago, i hauled the pack up 11 pitches of chimney, and also used the interior back pad to shiver bivy on. You’ll never need another small/med sized pack again. 

Time to jump back in & point out that the OP and his Black Diamond like choices has not said a thing,

 More to the point is that Josh is very busy right now.

 While I know he isn't big on a short exterior 'daisy-chain (3loop) he has done it.(compromises/bag,durability/integrity)

But like I said he is working on the  HandBuilt Alliance & D4 Big Wall Gear - What Josh is doing now & why a custom bag might be a big ask

Hey Y'all,
I am incredibly grateful and humbled by your support!

The Mochilla has been a constant work in progress, over 6 years, with significant feedback and use by the Mountain Project community.  The pack has been everywhere from Cerro Torre and El Cap to 24 hour pushes in the Cascades and Canadian Rockies.

To answer a few questions:

I'm always happy to work with anyone on small custom modifications and usually, these are free.

Aside from the large main compartment there is an internal zippered sleeve that houses the foam padding and a water bladder for the integrated hydration system.  There is also an external pocket that holds a supertopo guidebook, etc.

//

I personally make all of these to order in my garage in Whitefish, Montana.  I stay on top of things and my typical turnaround for packs is 1-3 weeks.

I just got in a new batch of DX-40 dyneema  fabric similar to the material Nick and Brian mentioned.

Feel free to shoot me any questions you have and I'm always happy to help!

Cheers,

Josh

Briggs,
I'm not affiliated with Suluk46 but I'm a big fan of his work.  That's the Tica Ice Tool on my pack, it's been perfect for the Bugaboos.