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Butora Acros - the fit

Original Post
Helen El · · Toronto, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 341

I currently have and like Scarpa Vapor Vs but I want something a little more precise. I am female, and I have a wide forefoot (La Sportivas tend to be too uncomfortable) but I guess I have a small heel because almost all climbing shoes seem to be too big in the heel, including these Scarpas.
I’m thinking of getting the Butora Acros. I’ve tried on my friend’s wide fit and they feel great and comfy until I get on the wall.. then I notice how big the front feels. They’re the right length but just feels a bit too spacious all around my foot. I’m thinking of getting the narrow ones but have never tried them on before and I’d have to order them. How more narrow is it compared to the wides? I’m a little nervous they’ll be too narrow since I have wide feet. How do they compare to the scarpas?
I also find the heels are too big for me on the wides, so that’s another reason to try the narrows.. but I’ve resigned to the fact that that’s almost going to be an issue with climbing shoes for me.

Zachary Winters · · Winthrop, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 435

Sounds like it'd be worth it to make a trip to the best/nearest gear shop and try stuff on. You might consider the Instinct VS or S. The S has a nice small heel and both are fairly wide up front.

Allez Up · · Detroit · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

i disagree with the assertion that you won’t ever be able to find a shoe that fits your foot.

I have the same foot type - wide forefoot and narrow heel. Just recently tried on the Tenaya Ra and it fit perfectly. 

D Elliot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

I also have same foot shape, Instinct VSR, Evolv Oracle, and surprisingly the Scarpa Furia S all cater to that shape. I had the Acros for a while and wanted to love them for the wide toe box, but the weird heel cup they have doesn’t suction to my heel and bit my Achilles constantly 

Chris Jones · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined May 2018 · Points: 200

I have the Acros.  I have a wide foot.  They fit me great.  It sounds like you will just need to go to a location with lots of shoes and try them on.  You could also purchase an unlined pair and wear them in a hot shower then walk around the house in them.  Then once they dry a bit drive to the gym and climb in them.  This will help get a better fit to your foot. Climbing shoe fit is the holy grail.  Hard to find but essential.  Send it.

Helen El · · Toronto, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 341

Thanks everyone! It's hard to go to a location because Butoras are not available anywhere locally. The local places we get our shoes mainly only stock Scarpa, 5.10s, Evolv, Black Diamond, La Sportiva. That's true that some shoes fit better - I have tried the Tenaya Iati at a shoe demo and they fit nicely (and edged amazingly!), but I disliked how soft they were when I tried climbing in them. I'll check out the Instincts too.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
Helen L wrote: I currently have and like Scarpa Vapor Vs but I want something a little more precise. I am female, and I have a wide forefoot (La Sportivas tend to be too uncomfortable) but I guess I have a small heel because almost all climbing shoes seem to be too big in the heel, including these Scarpas.
I’m thinking of getting the Butora Acros. I’ve tried on my friend’s wide fit and they feel great and comfy until I get on the wall.. then I notice how big the front feels. They’re the right length but just feels a bit too spacious all around my foot. I’m thinking of getting the narrow ones but have never tried them on before and I’d have to order them. How more narrow is it compared to the wides? I’m a little nervous they’ll be too narrow since I have wide feet. How do they compare to the scarpas?
I also find the heels are too big for me on the wides, so that’s another reason to try the narrows.. but I’ve resigned to the fact that that’s almost going to be an issue with climbing shoes for me.

If you want a precise fit go with La Sportiva Testarossas for a wide forefoot and narrow heel. They are vastly more formed than Acros and will stretch to fit perfectly and are vastly more sensitive.

Its tempting to go with slippers but none of them have precision in time. Lace is the way to go. Acros will not stretch or form much. If you must go slipper then go Skwama.

The rubber on the Acros was too thick when new for much sensitivity and wasn't precise on edges like the Testarossas.

If you want a stiffer shoe then consider Boreal Lynx. They fit a wide forefoot well and have medium to narrow heels too.
Helen El · · Toronto, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 341

Hey, I ended up getting the Instinct VSR in the smaller side of my street shoe size. I’ve worn them indoor climbing 2x now. They’re really snug and painful right now so praying they’ll stretch (I tried climbing in 1/2 size up, which is the larger end of my street shoe size, and they seemed too comfortable for an aggressive shoe and didn’t feel as good toeing on small holds so I exchanged them to this size). I really don’t need know how people size down because ouch already!

Also: the heel is still too big for me, even though everyone says Instinct heels are snug. :) 

Helen El · · Toronto, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 341

Forgot to mention I got a chance to try the blue narrow Acros and they’re really tight in comparison to the orange wides, so even the same length feels rather uncomfortable (night and day with the wides!). Then again, so are these new Instincts right now! So Acros are definitely wider and more comfy than Instincts.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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