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buying a sport rack

Original Post
Trevor Payor · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

I recently bought a rope and 4 mammoth Dyneema slings, I was thinking of making 3 alpine draws and having one just cuz, then I was looking at buying a pack of oz quickdraw by bd and 6 Trango phase 18cm draws. I live in Utah and will be doing sport locally and backpacking trips with some climbing so thats why I wanted to go lightweight with the oz and Trango phase. any advice on better draws? 

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674
Get mammut express draws not those skinny dog bones if you have to grab one while climbing way more comfortable on the hands easy to hold onto, skinny ones hurt and your hand may slip and get caught in the lower carabiner. 
Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194

I buy what I can find on sale.  There are advantages and disadvantages to the various options out there.  In general, lighter is better, but your pre-climb meal vs bowel movement will probably make more of a difference that the weight difference between various manufacturers.  Biners with some sort of anti-nose hook feature are handy.  Stiff, longer draws can help you extend your reach to clip a bolt, but I wouldn't want a full rack of them.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

These are hard to beat at the price. I'd skip the Oz draws for sport. The biners are just too small, IMO, for good handling.

Petzl Quickdraws 30% off​​​

Alex O'Neill · · Boone, NC · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

I bought two sets of these years ago for a similar price, helluva deal and they work.  3 oz per draw is hard to beat, especially at 8ish bucks a pop

Omega Pacific 

Zacks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 65

agree oz too small for sport, also very short dogbone.  I swapped all my dogbones from the shorter ones to 17/18cm dogbones a few years back and never looked back.  less rope drag.  Having multiple dogbone sizes means having to choose the right one while cruxing.  Did that for a short while then said screw it and replaced all my dogbones

The trango phase is also too small imo for sport, although I love them for trad (dunno why I can do smaller clips for trad but it just works that way)

I really like the camp photon mixed draws for lightweight, but they don't have the durability of the petzl spirits (less metal on the camps)  for projecting fat dogbones are great and whatever carabiner is cheap is generally fine.  Solid gate without a hook are way better to clean especially on overhanging routes.  skip any wiregate bolt side draws.

Buying a first set if you really wanna save weight look at the photons or the spirits.  But really a sport rack is always light, its just draws, so you can get whatever is cheap at first...  If you go ultralight get something beefy for toproping also (I have 1 edelrid bulletproof thats great for this)

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17

For sport climbing, I'd worry more about clipping action than weight.  (But I haven't heard of much sport climbing that requires backpacking to get to.)  Back in the day, Petzl Spirits set the standard, but now it seems there are other options as good or better.  The Djinns for 13 bucks seems like a good deal.

Sam M · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

Dijinns can be found on sale for hella cheap. They are sturdy and large with good clipping action.

Trevor Payor · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

I bought the oz’s from what I hear they work for sport and I don’t mind having a skinny dogbone to get the weight down 

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695
Trevor Payor wrote: I bought the oz’s from what I hear they work for sport and I don’t mind having a skinny dogbone to get the weight down 

I use all light, skinny dogbone setups for sport and it works just fine. The only difference is the clips are slightly more difficult because the skinny dogbone can spin easier than a wide dog bone. The Oz biners are super easy to clip, that's not a concern. I like light gear because I'm usually carrying all the things, and not just sport draws. Maybe other areas might be sport destination only/ trad destination only, in that case, lightweight sport gear may not be that helpful because you'd never bring both racks.

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

I beam style carabiners wear out pdq, Petzl QDs were great 20 years ago now junk I beam style they wear out fast and develop a Raisor sharp edge. 

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 425

You won't get a better deal than those djinn linked above.
Usually places you backpack in require more trad gear, so don't fret over those djinn being heavy. Buy them and be stoked. Read some of their reviews if you're not sure.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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