buying a sport rack
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I recently bought a rope and 4 mammoth Dyneema slings, I was thinking of making 3 alpine draws and having one just cuz, then I was looking at buying a pack of oz quickdraw by bd and 6 Trango phase 18cm draws. I live in Utah and will be doing sport locally and backpacking trips with some climbing so thats why I wanted to go lightweight with the oz and Trango phase. any advice on better draws? |
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Get mammut express draws not those skinny dog bones if you have to grab one while climbing way more comfortable on the hands easy to hold onto, skinny ones hurt and your hand may slip and get caught in the lower carabiner.
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I buy what I can find on sale. There are advantages and disadvantages to the various options out there. In general, lighter is better, but your pre-climb meal vs bowel movement will probably make more of a difference that the weight difference between various manufacturers. Biners with some sort of anti-nose hook feature are handy. Stiff, longer draws can help you extend your reach to clip a bolt, but I wouldn't want a full rack of them. |
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These are hard to beat at the price. I'd skip the Oz draws for sport. The biners are just too small, IMO, for good handling. |
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I bought two sets of these years ago for a similar price, helluva deal and they work. 3 oz per draw is hard to beat, especially at 8ish bucks a pop |
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agree oz too small for sport, also very short dogbone. I swapped all my dogbones from the shorter ones to 17/18cm dogbones a few years back and never looked back. less rope drag. Having multiple dogbone sizes means having to choose the right one while cruxing. Did that for a short while then said screw it and replaced all my dogbones |
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For sport climbing, I'd worry more about clipping action than weight. (But I haven't heard of much sport climbing that requires backpacking to get to.) Back in the day, Petzl Spirits set the standard, but now it seems there are other options as good or better. The Djinns for 13 bucks seems like a good deal. |
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Dijinns can be found on sale for hella cheap. They are sturdy and large with good clipping action. |
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I bought the oz’s from what I hear they work for sport and I don’t mind having a skinny dogbone to get the weight down |
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Trevor Payor wrote: I bought the oz’s from what I hear they work for sport and I don’t mind having a skinny dogbone to get the weight down I use all light, skinny dogbone setups for sport and it works just fine. The only difference is the clips are slightly more difficult because the skinny dogbone can spin easier than a wide dog bone. The Oz biners are super easy to clip, that's not a concern. I like light gear because I'm usually carrying all the things, and not just sport draws. Maybe other areas might be sport destination only/ trad destination only, in that case, lightweight sport gear may not be that helpful because you'd never bring both racks. |
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I beam style carabiners wear out pdq, Petzl QDs were great 20 years ago now junk I beam style they wear out fast and develop a Raisor sharp edge. |
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You won't get a better deal than those djinn linked above. |