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Best Softshell/Fleece for My Criteria

Original Post
DWF 3 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

I'm looking for a hybrid piece to run double duty as a mid layer and an outer layer.  Things most important to me:

1. Windproof or very wind resistant - I do not care about breathability at cold, windy belays.  If I start to sweat on an approach, I'll take it off.
2. Mobile/flexible - I want unobstructed use of my arms and core
3. Mid-weight - somewhere around 16-20oz. (not too light it's not warm)
4. Quick drying
5. Under helmet style hood would be preferred
6. Chest pocket preferred

I'm coming from a Rab Exile jacket which I love but unfortunately it's no longer made.
https://www.moosejaw.com/product/rab-men-s-exile-jacket_10294431

I was really liking the Mammut Ultimate V Hooded Softshell but I don't know if I can get past the ridiculous side zips.
https://us.mammut.com/p/1011-00061-4592/ultimate-v-so-hooded-jacket-men/

Any input would be great!

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Another Polartec Wind Pro product like the Rab maybe? Melanzana make one if you feel like driving to Leadville. This small shop in New England too.

Otherwise a typical synthetic puffy will do, just not as durable as fleece. 

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

Why an under-the-helmet hood?  That's very uncommon for a climbing-specific jacket as most people, including myself, prefer the hood to go over the helmet so it can easily be donned or removed w/o the need to remove the helmet.  IMHO, Arc'teryx makes the best-in-class StormHood.  I wish other manufacturers would pay attention!

If you like Mammut, take a look at the Ultimate Eisfeld Hooded Softshell Jacket.  18 ounces, Gore Windstopper membrane (windproof and very weather resistant,) harness-compatible exterior pockets and dope colors!  For a more breathable and lighter version, take a look at the 16 ounce Eisfeld Light Hoody.  

DWF 3 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186
jdejace wrote: Another Polartec Wind Pro product like the Rab maybe? Melanzana make one if you feel like driving to Leadville. This small shop in New England too.

Otherwise a typical synthetic puffy will do, just not as durable as fleece.

The Melanzana hardface does look promising but it’s kind of a bummer the pockets don’t zip. Next time I drive through I’ll probably check em out. And good call on ragged Mountain hoodie; looks pretty much identical to the Rab. 

I own and love a Xenon hoodie as my synthetic puffy for over my mid layer when it gets real cold but honestly I hate climbing in it. It’s too slippery and doesn’t stretch much but it’s worth it when it’s really cold. 
DWF 3 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186
AlpineIce wrote: Why an under-the-helmet hood?  That's very uncommon for a climbing-specific jacket as most people, including myself, prefer the hood to go over the helmet so it can easily be donned or removed w/o the need to remove the helmet.  IMHO, Arc'teryx makes the best-in-class StormHood.  I wish other manufacturers would pay attention!

If you like Mammut, take a look at the Ultimate Eisfeld Hooded Softshell Jacket.  18 ounces, Gore Windstopper membrane (windproof and very weather resistant,) harness-compatible exterior pockets and dope colors!  For a more breathable and lighter version, take a look at the 16 ounce Eisfeld Light Hoody.  
I have short hair so I prefer the under the helmet style to keep my head warm. Plus they keep the heat in better they’re vastly superior in the wind. When it’s cold enough my puffy or shell hood goes over the helmet just fine. And to be honest, I just don’t wear helmets often. 
GearGuy 316 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Don Ferris III wrote: I'm looking for a hybrid piece to run double duty as a mid layer and an outer layer.  Things most important to me:

1. Windproof or very wind resistant - I do not care about breathability at cold, windy belays.  If I start to sweat on an approach, I'll take it off.
2. Mobile/flexible - I want unobstructed use of my arms and core
3. Mid-weight - somewhere around 16-20oz. (not too light it's not warm)
4. Quick drying
5. Under helmet style hood would be preferred
6. Chest pocket preferred

It looks like the Wild Things® Custom Wind Pro® Hoody meets everything on your list.

https://www.thinglink.com/scene/460485630212702208

https://www.moosejaw.com/content/wild-things

https://www.wildthingsgear.com/

However, it seems like the Polartec Wind Pro fabric technology is no longer being used by any major brands today, and doesn't look like either moosejaw or wildthingsgear themselves even sell this anymore, though you may want to call them to confirm.

I'm just guessing as I've never owned one but perhaps Polartec Wind Pro jackets were just too heavy, not breathable and thus wasn't selling that well, and most people would get better versatility, comfort and performance with a good layering system.

Maybe switch to an Arc'teryx Konseal Hoody or Fortrez Hoody or Patagonia R1 Hoody or TNF Summit Series L2 Proprius Grid Fleece Hoody, all of which have under the helmet hood, chest pocket, flexible and quick drying. Then add on top any good windshell or a Gore Windstopper jacket like the Mammot Ultimate Eisfeld Hooded Softshell Jacket mentioned above. And when you're cold, add your insulating belay puffy jacket on top. 
Matt B · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 472
I think they make one that has a water resistant shell on the outside too, if that's your thing. I love my R1.
i shore · · London · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
Don Ferris III wrote: I'm looking for a hybrid piece to run double duty as a mid layer and an outer layer.  Things most important to me:

1. Windproof or very wind resistant - I do not care about breathability at cold, windy belays.  If I start to sweat on an approach, I'll take it off.
2. Mobile/flexible - I want unobstructed use of my arms and core
3. Mid-weight - somewhere around 16-20oz. (not too light it's not warm)
4. Quick drying
5. Under helmet style hood would be preferred
6. Chest pocket preferred

Buffalo Big Face (or other) Mountain Shirt. Pertex over fibre pile. Admittedly I'm old fashioned in my choice of garments, but this is still my go to jacket for a huge variety of conditions. I wear it over a base layer so it doesn't need frequent washing although it functions best next to the skin.

It fulfils all above except perhaps being slightly heavier. The normal hood is rather poorly designed, especially for all round vision, but I find it is good if held in place under a helmet. The pertex can be a bit rippable in eg chimneys with rough rock.
Extra advantages are removeable hood and really good ventilation using the side zips. The crutch strap on the Big Face is effective. Not for the fashion conscious however.
AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

Wild Things WindPro Hoody, "Rifle Green/Castle Rock," men's large.  $65, shipped to lower 48.  Condition is 8/10 and only because it's been worn.  No damage.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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