Mountain Project Logo

Favorite gym only shoe for old dudes.

Original Post
KurtP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Im basically full time in the gym with my kids these days. looking for a shoe for a mix of boulder and sport climbing. at this point...comfort sort of trumps performance for me. Whatcha liking these days?

Kelley Gilleran · · Meadow Vista · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,851

I will continue to buy Scarpa Instinct VS. Best gym shoe I've found. You can pop your heel out and it doesn't deform the shoe when you walk around. Rubber takes forever to wear through the rand too.

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Anasazi Pro

TC Pros resoled with C4 or Grip2

Stu L · · Washington, DC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

La Sportiva finale or Scarpa helix

Nick Ludwig · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 505

+1 for Scarpa Helix for mileage and comfort.  I use these shoes for all sport and bouldering in the gym, only put on my expensive shoes here and there.  I'm a young person tho, what do I know.

Dave Baker · · Wiltshire, UK · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 303

Comfort? Mythos.

JF M · · NoCo · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,863

I’ve got a pair of (don’t laugh) oxygyms that I like for inside.  Pretty comfy and decent performance at the moderate (ie sub-12) level. My toes are really sensitive to narrow toe boxes and and squishing Into small shoes.  My outdoor shoes are Anasazi guides. 

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

For inside get a slipper with velcro closure like the Anasazi VCS. Just size it snug but not too tight and they'll work well and be easy on and off.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

I've settled on Evolv Shamans after trying about 6 or 7 different shoes for the gym. Velcro for easy on and off is key for me at the gym. I like the "love bump" design of Shamans. 

Kelley Gilleran · · Meadow Vista · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,851
Señor Arroz wrote: I've settled on Evolv Shamans after trying about 6 or 7 different shoes for the gym. Velcro for easy on and off is key for me at the gym. I like the "love bump" design of Shamans. 

I used to love the shamans but they changed the design about 5 years ago with the thinner straps and for some reason they were a different fit on my foot with the seams laying over the big toe area imo

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
Noah Yetter wrote: TC Pros resoled with C4 or Grip2
Definitely resoled with anything...
Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 341

I recently bought a pair of Evolv Nighthawks as a gym shoe while my other shoes were getting resoled, and they are  pretty great.  Cheap, perform fine, comfortable enough to wear for long periods of time. I wear them when climbing with my 5 year old so I can chase him around and not have to worry about taking my shoes on and off.  
Extra bonus has been that I really like them for climbing cracks, too.   

Joe Prescott · · Berlin Germany · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 6

A year ago I bought some Scarpa Vapor Vs to gym climb with my wife/kids and ARCing on autobelays, etc. I got them pretty oversized. They seemed sloppy at first, but they shrunk up a bit and became one of my absolute favorite comfy shoes. This is the only velcro shoe that has ever worked for me (climbing more than 25 years) and love the convenience. Pretty wide forefoot translates to comfort. Indoors, they climb almost as well as my tight Vapor Laces and I try things at my limit (mid-range gym 12s) with them. My first climb ever in them was Bastille (eldo) and I thought they were too big and sloppy, but they molded to my foot well after 2-3 weeks. I just got them re-soled and they must have stretched them a bit in a last to resole them, because they felt clunky again last night, but by the end of the night they were starting to  form to my feet again.

There is a new version this year, so the old version is on sale most places.

KurtP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

thanks folks. I might actually try a pair of the Oxygyms. they are cheep and comfortable. 

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55

Katana velcro

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262

New balance hands down!

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Kelley Gilleran wrote: I will continue to buy Scarpa Instinct VS. Best gym shoe I've found. You can pop your heel out and it doesn't deform the shoe when you walk around. Rubber takes forever to wear through the rand too.

Ditto

Jon Rust · · Chesterbrook, PA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

I picked up a pair of Mad Rock M5s ‘cause they were dirt cheap. Had low expectations but they turned out to be perfect for beating up on plastic. Street size for me is comfortable but not sloppy.

Nick Henscheid · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 625

I have really enjoyed the new Black Diamond shoes. I’ve had the Momentums for about 6 months and they’ve been the most comfortable and durable gym shoe I’ve even owned, and I’ve used a wide range of others from Moccs to Anasazis to Muiras and Testarossas. I have no trouble sending hard routes in them, either, they perform very well. If they fit, try em!

KurtP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0
Nick Henscheid wrote: I have really enjoyed the new Black Diamond shoes. I’ve had the Momentums for about 6 months and they’ve been the most comfortable and durable gym shoe I’ve even owned, and I’ve used a wide range of others from Moccs to Anasazis to Muiras and Testarossas. I have no trouble sending hard routes in them, either, they perform very well. If they fit, try em!

i might try a pair of those too. 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

I'm 52 with a lot of arthritis problems in my feet, I have a lot of shoes that I don't wear, and a lot of shoes in general. My most recent favorites are the 5.10 Gambit and the 5.10 VCR (the tan ones). Sized to my street shoe to wear in the gym.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Favorite gym only shoe for old dudes. "

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.