Courses/First Steps for Beginners

Hello,

About Me
I'm new to mountaineering, its something I've always wanted to pursue. I'm mostly a long distance hiker, I've done the AT, JMT, TRT. I'm used to training for hikes, as I want to set an FKT on an middle distance trail like the Colorado Trail.

First Steps
I'm doing the following to prepare for mountaineering:

• Climbing indoors regularly, attempting to get to ~5.10b by summer
• Start climbing outdoors
• Reading Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills and New Alpinism 
  • Creating a training plan from the New Alpinisim
• Going on a introductory trip up Mt. Washington in March
• Still trying to find a way to get over my fear of exposure
• Renting and figuring out what gear I like

First Course
I am about to sign up for some introductory alpine courses over this summer, before they fill up. I've been primarily focused on courses offered by the American Alpine Institute, although I've seen in a few posts that they don't screen clients and a few courses have been bogged down by unfit clients that the guides have been forced to cater to. So recently I've been thinking of looking to Alpine Ascents International.

The following are the courses I've been thinking about, and I'd love hear your thoughts on what courses would prepare me for higher ascents in the future like Denali, Aconcagua, Eiger, peaks in the Himalayas (maybe K2)?

• American Alpine Institute
  • Alpinism I
    • Introduction to Mountaineering on Mt. Baker
  • Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1
    • Introduction to Mountaineering on Mt. Baker + Alpine Rock Climbing in the Cascades
  • Alpinism I + Alpine Ice Climbing
    • Introduction to Mountaineering on Mt. Baker + Ice Climbing/Mt.Baker via North Ridge
• Alpine Ascents International
  • 6 Day Baker
    • Introduction to Mountaineering on Mt. Baker
  • 13 Day Baker
    • Introduction to Mountaineering on Mt. Baker + Alpine Rock Climbing in the Cascades
  • 10 Day Baker Rainier
    • Introduction to Mountaineering on North Face of Mt. Baker + Rainer via the Kautz Ice Chute

I'm leaning to Alpinism I (short and little commitment) for the 10 Day Baker Rainier courses (the routes seem very interesting and closest to what I want to do).

So it seems the questions I have are:

• American Alpine Institute vs. Alpine Ascents International?
• Is it worth the money to take the rock climbing course?
  • As background to that question: I live in NYC and climb in a gym regularly (I'm only up to 5.9 right now), and I can go out to the Gunks once it warms up. This is obviously quite different from an alpine environment.
• As a follow up to the above: Rock climbing vs Ice climbing which is more valuable?
• Would you recommend something in addition to what I've outlined?

Thanks for Your Help & I look forward to being regular on this forum

About 6 years ago I did the 13 day alpine ascents.  It was super valuable and worth thecost.  Beginning on day one was technical knowledge and training, with no time spent on super basics that wouldve been wasted time/money.  There was two of us on the course with our guide, so essentially it was personalized instruction based on our needs andabilities.  I remember passing a party from AAI that was 10 students and thinking how lucky I felt to be in such a small size with an awesome guide/instructor. My guide was Pat Timson, who I feel lucky to have learned from.  I'm sure aai instructors are amazing, so I am only speaking to group size.  Maybe it was particular to my experience and got lucky, but I was super happy with the course and felt knowledgable and confident to continue towards objectives on my own.  

Buy some shit read a few books grab a buddy and go. You will learn along the way and it'll be more fun. If you are interested in mountaineering only (forum you posted in) don't bother climbing at the gym it won't help you.

Take a NOLS course.  Something like The Alaska Mountaineering Course would prepare you pretty well.

Jay M wrote: ...
First Steps
I'm doing the following to prepare for mountaineering:...

So it seems the questions I have are:

• American Alpine Institute vs. Alpine Ascents International?
• Is it worth the money to take the rock climbing course?

Thanks for Your Help & I look forward to being regular on this forum

First, I'd suggest you also contact International Mountain Guides, headquartered in Ashford, WA (www.mountainguides.com). I've used them for a few trips, beginning with Mt Rainier. And conversations I've had with a couple of the guides indicate that they consider IMG to be the cream of the crop when it comes to guide services. I've been quite impressed with their guides.

Rock climbing course would be ok, if you're intending on climbing rock (or are wanting to take an ice climbing course, and had never climbed anything prior).

If you're wanting to "go alpine", don't under estimate the commitment and gear/training/strength requirements! This is where a good guide will be invaluable in getting you home on your feet, not in a box.

Learn, and practice religiously the concepts of "leave no trace". Seriously, that's an important skill set. Not only so that you don't turn the outdoors into a mess, but also so that you think carefully about what you're doing and how you're going to do it as you prepare to go hiking/climbing.

Welcome, and from what I've observed on this website forum, you'd do well to develop a thick skin! There are some knowledgable and well-meaning folks here, but they occasionally seem to be overshadowed by the, uh, "clowns".

Check in often, let us know how/what you're doing and how you're progressing toward your goals.

Stagg54 Taggart wrote: Take a NOLS course.  Something like The Alaska Mountaineering Course would prepare you pretty well.

I havent personally taken a NOLS course but have heard the opposite from a guide that took a NOLS course when he was younger. From what I understand the focus is very broad and not at just about technical mountaineering skills.

I took the 6.5 day IMG rainier course last year and have been comfortable planning my own trips since then with the skills they taught me, well worth the investment.

I have taken the AAI AMTL I course and will be doing part 3 this summer. You certainly could go out and learn it all for free but taking a dedicated course will cut a significant amount of time for the learning curve. I would recommend those guys.

Colson C wrote:

I havent personally taken a NOLS course but have heard the opposite from a guide that took a NOLS course when he was younger. From what I understand the focus is very broad and not at just about technical mountaineering skills.

I took the 6.5 day IMG rainier course last year and have been comfortable planning my own trips since then with the skills they taught me, well worth the investment.

That probably depends on what NOLS course you take.  The 23 and over Alaska Mountaineering course was pretty intense. They fly you out and drop you off in the middle of a glacier on day 1. It was almost all technical. If you take a Wind River semester or something similar, you might spend a month learning about backpacking and LNT, before you do any climbing.

Colson C wrote: From what I understand the focus is very broad and not at just about technical mountaineering skills.

That's not necessarily a bad thing. Technical skills are easy to learn. It's the judgement, leadership, and decision making that's a lot harder and what most people lack.  NOLS does a really good job of teaching that, whatever course of theirs you end up taking. 

to the OP also check out local clubs.  Mazamas, Mountaineers, CMC, ECP, PATC-MS etc usually have courses that are much cheaper than guide services.  You'll get to meet a lot of people with similar interests and ambitions (ie. potential future partners).

Thanks for the responses.