Camping/climbing in Dacks

Starting to look ahead to warmer weather ... and looking for good areas in the Adirondacks to backpack in, set up basecamp and climb for a couple of days. From what I’ve seen on MP, seems like Wallface and Crane Mountain are good candidates. Anybody got some beta? 

The current (2 volume) guidebook should tell you almost everything you need to know.  Panther Gorge is another option, albeit much more remote and committing.

Just depends what you're looking for, there's tons of options. Some a lot more remote than others. Wallface and Crane Mountain are entirely different - one is remote wilderness multi-pitch and the other is relatively close to the road camping with mostly single pitch cragging. 

I realize Crane is cragging and Wallface is remote multi-pitch; those are both things that I like doing. I’m looking for options — with good camping and enough good routes of any kind to keep one occupied for 2-3 days. The length of the approach doesn’t really matter, as long is it’s not 20 miles of bushwhacking. I’ve only climbed at Chapel Pond Pass and Shelving Rock, so my knowledge of the Adirondacks is limited. I don’t have the guidebooks; my main partner does, but I’m looking for a little first-person knowledge.

The crags around Avalanche Lake are another good hiking, climbing, camping option---backcountry but not too much....

Another factor to consider is your crowd tolerance. Going into Wallface should be a fairly quiet experience other than near the trailhead. Panther Gorge can be hit-or-miss, not a lot of people end up all the way back there, but you might end up finding a large group at the campsite/leanto. Anywhere else in the high peaks region is going to be fairly crowded: e.g. expect to see people all day (unless bushwhacking), parking at many trailheads will be challenging (get there early to ensure a spot).

You're definitely not backpacking if you're going to crane...that being said you can post up at the campsite right by the parking lot for a few days and basecamp there.  Spring is iffy for wallface due to the horrible blackflies and huge chunks of ice falling off the face.  Also it seeps a lot.  Avy pass is pretty sick and is definitely backcountry...you're 4.5 miles from the trailhead.  Awesome routes on both sides of the pass there.  Plently of lean tos and sites but also a lot of people

Piggybacking on this - how is May for climbing in the ADK? We've got an experienced leader with not as experienced second. Specifically looking at hitting up Wallface, Poke-O, but open to others suggestions.

Any foresight into the bugs, seepage, and general crag conditions?

Rob TH wrote: Piggybacking on this - how is May for climbing in the ADK? We've got an experienced leader with not as experienced second. Specifically looking at hitting up Wallface, Poke-O, but open to others suggestions.

Any foresight into the bugs, seepage, and general crag conditions?

May is about the worst of bugs in the High Peaks (Wallface). I'd expect them to be a bit less at Poko, and for the rock to be drier there. Do check for falcon closures however - May often sees much of Poko closed.

Those pesky raptors close a lot of cliffs.  And they will buzz ya if you're getting too close...the DEC won't like it too much either.  May does tend to be wet and probably too soon in the season for wallface as we have had a lot of snow this winter so far.  Good early season crags that are warm and dry are Pitchoff, the web, silver lake (probably my favorite), and other south facing things in chapel pond pass