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Olav Valo
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Feb 11, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2019
· Points: 0
Dear forum,
I have a question about whether I can still use a climbing rope. I am aware that it's likely that nobody can provide a definite answer and that the best option may simply be to buy a new one. But I am actually curious whether there is a clear answer and would like to hear your take (and maybe learn something about ropes).
I have a 60 meter (10.5 mm diameter) Mammut single rope that is a few years old but has been used very little. It has no visible damage to the mantel.
While sports climbing, I had an accident (not too severe but looked scary/bloody at first) and some nice fellow climbers who has recently completed advanced rope rescue training used my rope to build a "cablecar construction" to get me off the cliff and towards the road below where I could be transported off. For this, my rope was attached on one end to a belay anchor near the bottom of the climb (near my crash site) and on the other end to a tree maybe 35-50 meters below/away at road level. The rope was then tightened hard, apprentently by building a block and tackle construction out of other climbing gear. I was then put onto a stretcher, clipped into that lead rope with my hardness and ferried down gently.
My question: Although I could not fully witness the (impressive) construction of that rescue line (due to being on a stretcher), the rope was obviously tightened very hard for this. Do I need to throw that rope away or can it still be climbed?
Best, Olav
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Rob WardenSpaceLizard
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Feb 11, 2019
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las Vegans, the cosmic void
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 130
it is most likely fine. the forces even with the high vector are lower than a hard fall. a tyrolean is a pretty standard manuver carreid out in larger party rescue with 2 people and a basket on the line.
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B Jolley
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Feb 11, 2019
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Utah
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 172
Inspect the rope for flat spots in the core, run the rope through your hands squeeze to find any flat spots, if any found retire it or cut it. Measure the length of the rope, if its more than 15% longer than 60m retire it. Shelf life of a rope is roughly 8 years, if its older, retire it. If you have any doubts, retire it. A new rope is cheap in the scheme of things.
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Eric Engberg
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Feb 11, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 0
Super Fluke wrote: Inspect the rope for flat spots in the core, run the rope through your hands squeeze to find any flat spots, if any found retire it or cut it. Measure the length of the rope, if its more than 15% longer than 60m retire it. Shelf life of a rope is roughly 8 years, if its older, retire it. If you have any doubts, retire it. A new rope is cheap in the scheme of things. Agree with most of this except for the >15% rule. If you don't have a baseline from previously measuring it - don't assume a "60m" rope is 60m
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B Jolley
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Feb 11, 2019
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Utah
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 172
Eric Engberg wrote: Agree with most of this except for the >15% rule. If you don't have a baseline from previously measuring it - don't assume a "60m" rope is 60m Good point. Most ropes are not exact to the length on the box, factory cut length can very.
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Buck Rio
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Feb 11, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Every one of my Mammut ropes is exactly 60m...my 60m Sterling's are all 61m
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Olav Valo
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Feb 11, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2019
· Points: 0
Thanks for the rapid and helpful responses! Unfortunately, I won't be able to measure the rope's exact length anymore, since i once cut off maybe a meter. But I'll check it thoroughly for flat spots and then make a final decisions. Probably I'll retire it since it's not so far away from the age limit mentioned by Super Fluke (even though rarely used) and of course rather heavy for the same reason . Again - thanks everyone.
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