Best arches to climb/rap near Moab

I've got a few weeks in Moab this spring. I've heard free rappels of arches are a must do and I'm looking for some suggestions. Thanks!

You heard wrong.  Not a must do.

Illegal in Arches and Corona.

Morning Glory Arch is ready, willing and legal. Not that it's cool, mind you.

Best rappel in the area is Looking Glass Rock. It's not really an arch but...it's a fun rappel, regardless. I think you need 2 ropes. And, oh, watch out for rattlesnakes. Every time they find a rattler in the Moab area they tranquilize it and take it to the base of LGR for safekeeping.

Climb Safe,

Brian, I'm not talking about in the park. That I know is illegal. But it seems that there's plenty outside the park that is fine to climb

Do you just want to do big free-hanging rappels or do you specifically want to do them over arches? Look into canyoneering. 

More looking into arches. It sounds fun too do a scrabble or easy 5th class up then free-hanging rap down

No, it's not cool, don't be that person.

Washer Woman

Wilson Arch. On 191 south of Moab. It is the one you see pictures of people doing the simul free rappel.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: Washer Woman

5.10, semi-loose here or there, either approach can be a minor epic (esp the first time), one approach requiring 4x4.....

Great choice. 

Wilson is a popular choice but watch out for low flying airplanes:

Looking Glass Rock is really fun. Climbing is super easy (watch for snakes at start) but rappel is amazing. Fun, easy outing.(not a true arch, as Malcolm pointed out)

Marc801 C wrote:

5.10, semi-loose here or there, either approach can be a minor epic (esp the first time), one approach requiring 4x4.....

Great choice. 

Earn your turns

If you do want to simul-rap an arch, be mindful of your impact. Pulling ropes over sandstone often leaves nasty scars on the rock. One way to minimize this is by using one doubled rope and a single line. Single line gets a biner or quicklink on a bight at the end, then double rope rap through the link, the single line should run over the vast majority of arch (making the pull easier). Pull the double rope and it all falls down without rubbing the entire rope over the arch. 

Adam Fleming wrote: If you do want to simul-rap an arch, be mindful of your impact. Pulling ropes over sandstone often leaves nasty scars on the rock. One way to minimize this is by using one doubled rope and a single line. Single line gets a biner or quicklink on a bight at the end, then double rope rap through the link, the single line should run over the vast majority of arch (making the pull easier). Pull the double rope and it all falls down without rubbing the entire rope over the arch. 

what? more plz

handle with care on jug handle arch fits the bill.  fun-ish route with a free hanging rap back to the deck.  super accessible off of potash road....

This thread is fucked.  IC already has cracks a half inch wider from normal climbing and this is the bomber sandstone in UT. Rope grooves on top of arches are totally not cool. Don't be that douche, legal or not.

Adam, thanks for the tip! That's a really sweet set up that I feel most people outside of Moab/Utah don't think of or know. This will be my 3rd trip to the Utah desert (first was solely sport) but first time I've actually heard someone explain this set up. I wish it was enforced heavier as the common etiquette (which I'm sure it is with the locals). Most climbing tourists know not to "bust the crust" but not this

. Mobes wrote: This thread is fucked.  IC already has cracks a half inch wider from normal climbing and this is the bomber sandstone in UT. Rope grooves on top of arches are totally not cool. Don't be that douche, legal or not.

This is what we're talking about:

Photo credit: http://thealoof.com/u-turn-canyon-moab-utah-photos-and-information-moab/

Reconsidering.....

Good man, B.