St. George Utah

My wife and I will be driving from Zion to Las Vegas and are planning on spending a few days climbing around St. George. We climb trad and sport, multi and single pitch. Grade wise we will do up to low 5.10 on gear and into the 11's sport. What are the must hit spots? We were looking at camping in Snow Canyon State Park and spending some time at Island in the Sky.

Any additional beta on food, camping, hikes, things to do, etc?? Thanks in advance!

- Daniel

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Isn't there a limestone bible for this? limestonebible.com/

If you don't mind lots of tourists hiking by, I thought the Chuckawalla wall was really cool steep juggy sport climbing. Didn't make it, but the Namaste wall at zion looks awesome.

snow canyon is such a lovely place to be.  One of the best on earth. But I thought the climbing there was choss. 

Check out the underworld . Was really neat climbing there

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106025053/underworld

If you mountain bike, check out Gooseberry Mesa.  Stellar camping on the rim.  Water at the last gas station on the left as you approach the turn off when driving south from Hurricane.

Jon Banks wrote: There is okay free camping and great bouldering at Moe's Valley.

Camping is no longer allowed at Moe's.

In addition to the Limestone Bible mentioned above, Todd Goss's Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip is the other go-to guidebook.

I would second The Underworld, as well as nearby Prophecy Wall, as must-do areas. The Utah Hills is a bit further out but also a unique awesome place to climb.

Snow Canyon is great, not sure about the choss comment. Check out Stepping Out, Thousand Pints of Lite, Cloudwaker, Living on the Edge and Atomic Indian.

Prophesy Wall is super fun as well. The Underworld is a cool spot too, but heavy rains and snow can add another half an hour to the approach.

Dont camp at Moes or Prophesy, its Illegal and makes the local climbers look bad.

If it rains, there is tons of awesome limestone just west of town. The Soul Asylum, Kellys Wall/Black and Tan and Sunset Ally are my favorites. Theres free camping at all of them.  

This might be a bit out of your range, but this route in Snow Canyon is one of my favorites in the St. George area. The moves and the view are spectacular. I think the rock quality is generally quite good. It is closely bolted, so it shouldn't be difficult to A0 any moves that might shut you down.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107019607/the-richness-of-it-all

This route in Zion gets afternoon sun and is quite fun. Depending on your experience, you might find the first pitch to be a bit exciting.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105967843/made-to-be-broken

I haven't climbed this one myself, but year good things about it if you are looking for a good Zion adventure route in the 10ish range.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105717823/iron-messiah

We just got back from St. George last week.  Beautiful time of year.  We did some on site TR at Black Rock one day then went to Snow Canyon Island in the sky and did Will's Rush, we are old and slow but we have our fun.  Another route we loved was Led by Sheep in Zion.

The folks at Desert Rat climbing shop were very friendly and willing to talk climbing and where to go with out of towners.

My favorite crags here in St. George are Green Valley Gap and Black Rocks for shorter climbs. Most of them are about 30-50 feet. They’re fun and have a good variety of holds. Chuckwalla is really fun for juggy, pumpy climbing, but it’s the most crowded climbing spot, and the holds kinda reflect that. I don’t know about trad or multi pitch, though. 

Limestone bible is awesome, desert rat will also have great beta on what is best. Ask nicely and buy some stuff and I'm sure they'll point you in the right direction. Zen Garden is a good sport wall, Chuckawalla is not really worth going to unless everything else is bad. There's really great climbing around there on all rock types and Chuckawalla is mostly great because of its accessibility and soft rock. 

In Snow Canyon, Check out “Living on the Edge” for a fun and exposed multipitch and “Atomic Indian” for a fun splitter crack and “doghouse arete” for sporty steepness and “Black Massacre” for some seeet vertical patina (and a few  3/8” fingertip pockets).

In Zion, “The Headache” is 3 pitches of amazing handcrack.  “Tourist Crack” is a fun layback. “Plan B” is a really fun one-day clean aid climb or hard free climb that probably never sees traffic.  For a big adventure day, climb the “Lady Mountain” trail which was one of the first trails in the canyon and is more adventurous and exposed than the hiking trails in the park.

Thanks everyone for the killer suggestions. Much appreciated!