Distal Biceps Tendon Rupture Success Stories?

This is a pretty uncommon thing (it’s usually the proximal tendon that goes) but it happened to me and I want to hear some stories of folks coming back from this injury and crushing it.

I debated fiercely between conservative treatment vs surgery and even sought out second and third opinions. Ultimately I decided to have it repaired with full intention to climb steep 5.13 again, do ladders up and down the campus board with authority, and reach into high, powerful underclings with confidence once again...

Stories and advice welcomed!

NB: Climber of 18 years and veteran of 7 orthopedic operatations and have always come back stronger - but this is my first upper body injury.

Josh,

I tore my distal bicep tendon (not while climbing) about 16 years ago. Had the surgery. Tore the repair within a couple of weeks by overextending my arm. Was going to have a second reattachment, but with my orthopedist, decided that letting it go was an option.

He said I would experience some loss of strength in that arm. He also pointed out that there is a risk of nerve damage during the surgery. I opted to let it go and live with it. I do have some loss of strength, but I'm OK with it.

It was also explained to me that time is of the essence when it tears, because if you wait too long to have the surgery, the tendon shrinks and grafts can be necessary. I had my initial surgery within two weeks of the tear.

Thanks Frank. I’ve already had the surgery - no complications thus far. Like you said you have to make a quick decision on this one but fortunately the surgical techniques (strength of the repairs) have come a long way in recent years. Blaine Wilson and Brian Shaw give me hope but I’d like to hear from some climbers.

Josh Janes wrote: Thanks Frank. I’ve already had the surgery - no complications thus far. Like you said you have to make a quick decision on this one but fortunately the surgical techniques (strength of the repairs) have come a long way in recent years. Blaine Wilson and Brian Shaw give me hope but I’d like to hear from some climbers.

How long ago did you have the surgery? Who are Blaine and Brian?

Oregon climber of 17 years. Mid 30s. 2nd ortho surgery(first being my ankle 4 months prior to this one).

I had heard this is an odd one. Normally happens when some fat guy dumps his harley and tries to catch it. I've seen proximal in a few different people and they seemed to have had good outcomes with the non-surgery route. The orthos I consulted with concurred it would best given the requirements put on my arm. I was extremely fortunate to have a variety of opinions from Drs who knew the mechanics of climbing. Also, lucky in that I was able to get the procedure done 2 days after the incident.

Im 9 months out from my surgery. Complete rupture + 3 CM retraction of the tendon.  He did a bone tunnel + anchor. The surgeon had enough material to work with to get full extension. The incision was horizontal (vs vertically) - I begged for them to not do the 'S' incision incase they had difficulty fishing for the bottom of the tendon - fortunately, they found it easy. I opted out for a nerve block; was scared of complication despite how rare that is. I did have a bit of numbness near my wrist, but that's all but gone now.  

Started rehab at 6 weeks. Started using it normally around 3 months. Afterwhich, I was told to stay away from climbing for a full 6 months to let it revascularize. Been climbing the last 5 weeks. Im about back to where I was. v11 (in the gym) + a few 5.13s(RP) outside, and working on harder things. There was a period where there was a noticeable difference in firmness, but that's improving now.  I do have a few hangups: Im a little fearful of certain types of movement - anything where I catch opened handed or hugging at full extension; lockoffs, deadpoints, etc are fine. Also, I feel a bit of soreness post session. So I typically take two days off when that's the case.  

Advice: Hang on to those goals. Mine helped me keep my sanity. To keep from getting to out of shape I focused on eating better(duh) and worked with a personal trainer. I was going to a private gym which had a PT. They coordinated with each other to come up with a safe plan. I'm also a kettlebell enthusiast and have a decent set at home which I used(obviously skipping the injured side) a good deal over the last 6 months. To cope with not climbing, the GF and I played a f**k ton of board games. I would recommend: Gloomhaven and Mage Knight if you're looking to fill your newly available freetime.

Best of luck!

Thanks Ryan - that’s what I want to hear!

I tore mine on the Great Red Roof which is pretty much the same thing as trying not to drop a 500 lb hog, right? I have some unusual anatomy - not one but two distal biceps tendons. Lucky me! Complete rupture of the short head (medial) tendon but the other one kept retraction to 11mm. I tried climbing twice after the injury but it was a flail fest (though I did work out some new beta on a project which will give me something to meditate on for... months). It convinced me my arm was not going to work right.

Surgery two weeks from date of injury with the single incision Endo button method. I’m told my incision is a 3cm longitudinal one but I haven’t seen it since I’m splinted for two weeks. No nerve block for the same reason (too risky) but thus far I’m pain-free - for sure the least painful procedure I’ve ever had.

Anyway, the doctor says once the splint comes off I can do full ROM work but am limited to lifting 5 lbs for the first 6 weeks. At 3 months I’m cleared to do anything I want within reason... it seems like rehab protocols are all over the map for this with some people beginning ROM right after surgery and others being much more conservative.

It’s sounds like you’ve made a great comeback after a tough year. I myself barely made it a year from my last surgery (ankle) and was climbing very well (for my 40-something self) so this is a bit frustrating but it’s better to look forward. V11?! I can’t relate but hopefully V7 and 5.13- ...

I’ll check out Gloomhaven and Mage Knight but I’m not sure my SO will have much patience for them (she’s already putting up with my non-climbing “gloom haven” self).

PS: how does it feel liebacking and underclinging?

I fully ruptured my distal bicep tendon in October of 2018.  I was 40 years old at the time.  It happened while I was adjusting my position on a strong undercling move with very high feet (almost a lieback if you can picture that) while attempting to exit out of a roof.  I had surgery two weeks from the incident as I knew time was of the essence. My recovery was very fast.  After the doc removed my soft cast he limited me to 30% ROM ONLY during sleep.  During the day I was able to start lifting 5lbs and move up incrementally.  I was a nervous wreck thinking I would retear it, but the doctor kept assuring me that if it doesn't hurt to keep on keeping on.  I was top-roping easy routes about 2 months post surgery, and bouldering and leading the moderates about 3 months post opt.  While I am not a "crusher"  I have made a full recovery. I sent my first outdoor V6 two weeks ago in Joshua Tree, and am pushing my trad lead grade as well.  I pretty much just stay away from really powerful underclings now.  My arm can still feel a little tight when fully extended but it does seem to continue to feel more and more "normal" as time goes on.  Speedy recovery!