Time to retire the rope?

I have had this rope about a year and a half, and have been climbing on it periodically (8-10 times a month on average) since I bought it. About a month or so I brought some new climbers outdoors for the first time and set them up on a toprope off a tree within a few feet of the cliff (a short static rope would have been helpful, but it wasn't totally necessary). I got carried away with a conversation with one of my friends and didn't notice that the climber was way off route from where the toprope was set up for, dragging it across a rather sharp, crystalline edge of rock. After a few falls the climber got lowered back down (still over sharp rock corner) and I came over to notice that my rope was looking much worse for wear now. I called it a day for climbing and went home to fully inspect the damage. In the photos below you can see some of the worst of the wear on the sheath. it is important to know that this is only about 7m or so on one side of the rope, and doesn't look this bad throughout. Judging from the photos, would you choose to keep climbing on it, or go ahead and cut it shorter? Unfortunately most of the stuff i tend to climb uses 70m ropes so cutting it would probably require me to also buy a new 70m (which is expensive for a broke college student).

Yer gonna die.

Also, send it to me for disposal.

Seriously, though, good rule of thumb is if you don't trust it, replace it.
My opinion? Impossible to really diagnose via a picture, but keep in mind that the strength in the rope comes from the core. If the sheath gets fuzzy it may prevent the rope from feeding through your belay device smoothly, but it shouldn't impact the strength of the rope. You can work your way down the rope squeezing it with your fingertips to feel for inconsistencies in the sheath; that would be a good sign that the rope needs to be replaced.

You do not need to retire or cut your rope. You do not need to worry about the  ~"if in doubt throw it out"~  comments that will follow (and collect, lots of "likes"),
 

Davis Badger wrote: I have had this rope about a year and a half, and have been climbing on it periodically (8-10 times a month on average) since I bought it. About a month or so I brought some new climbers outdoors for the first time and set them up on a toprope off a tree within a few feet of the cliff (a short static rope would have been helpful, but it was totally necessary). I got carried away with a conversation with one of my friends and didn't notice that the climber was way off route from where the toprope was set up for, dragging it across a rather sharp, crystalline edge of rock. After a few falls the climber got lowered back down (still over sharp rock corner) and I came over to notice that my rope was looking much worse for wear now. I called it a day for climbing and went home to fully inspect the damage. In the photos below you can see some of the worst of the wear on the sheath. it is important to know that this is only about 7m? (how far from the end? in feet,~20+~ ? - You may want to lead on the other end of the rope, or continue to work this side) or so on one side of the rope, and doesn't look this bad throughout. Judging from the photos, would you choose to keep climbing on it, or go ahead and cut it shorter? Unfortunately most of the stuff i tend to climb uses 70m ropes so cutting it would probably require me to also buy a new 70m (which is expensive for a broke college student).

You need to provide more information.

 What is the Make/Brand?  diameter/thickness?,
 
is there a bulge that feels ... squishy/soft?

 can you fold the bad spot over on itself not leaving any loop to see through? ( the core should NOT allow that)

  Ropes are made to be used, most are sturdy enough to last - so it sounds like your rope has been used but is not used up.

 Learn from the experience, always extend anchors, pad edges to protect the sheath & rope, use directionals, be attentive to what's going on...

M Hanna wrote:Hi David

Based on photos, time for some fresh cord. Sad to say but true. I once purchased a nice set of mammut doubles, and on their initial outing accidentally pulled a loose but sharp stone down in my lap and resulted in cutting both to the core as moving a belay laterally. Ouch.

Oh well. Part of the game.

Mh

Total bull pucky,   . . . . did you read what the cause was? .  EDIT: I WAS WRONG! . . . . . CARRY ON. . . .
 
He was top roping noobs on course rock,

 it is just cosmetic sheath damage.  . EDIT;  WELL COLOR ME PURPLE!   CUT CUT SNIP SNIP, MELT PRESS  (A sowing Thimble works well)

Hi David

Based on photos, time for some fresh cord. Sad to say but true. I once purchased a nice set of mammut doubles, and on their initial outing accidentally pulled a loose but sharp stone down in my lap and resulted in cutting both to the core as moving a belay laterally. Ouch.

Oh well. Part of the game.

Mh

told you so!

For the education of the uninformed;
Eastern Europeans, used to tape over core shots & lead & fall hard on those ropes.

 I am not suggesting that one should do that or that it was the safest thing to do but it was a regular thing that should be understood.

EDIT:
I See That Buck Rio !?
 Do Not Shave Your Rope, The only thing sketchy is if you do THAT!
If you understand the cause of the wear,: bad care when letting a beginner with less knowledge than yourself,
 hang on the rope,over an edge causing the sheath to get "fuzzy, then you can explain, that it looks used not damaged.
You used your rope roughly, take better care of your life line. 

if your worried about that section then just cut that end off. check the remainder for soft spots or any weak point but the cord doesnt look abused otherwise. 

Sure, now you have a 60, good to go!!

Thank you all for quick replies, went over the damaged sections of rope doing the pinch test today and things seemed to be in order. I think I will keep using it at least for a little while longer. Is there a point where excessive sheath damage (regardless of the core stability) could cause you to retire a rope?

I’d you can see through to the core, in needs trimmed down to remove that section. I’d keep a close eye on the worm section. And as stated above, extend over the edge with webbing or a short static rope and pas the edge with a towel, rug, or bag next time. That might have prevented this from happening. I’d recommend 25-30ft of static. It’ll be well worth having

Use one of those sweater fuzz shaver things to remove the sheath fuzz.. They cost about $5 on Amazon, and will not look so sketchy to your partners.

Davis Badger wrote:  Is there a point where excessive sheath damage (regardless of the core stability) could cause you to retire a rope?

As Drew stated above, once you get a core shot (meaning that the sheath has deteriorated to the point that there is an area where no sheath is covering the core and you can see the core poking out of the sheath), you should cut the rope past that section or retire the rope.  

It looks to me like it's the in the stage of "not retirement yet but it's close and I need to either chop it or moniter that section closely". Make sure you pay extra attention to detail when feeling out that spot as you flake out your rope. Or if you don't want to deal with the extra attention, then just chop that section off. 

It is a bit fuzzed -- but if no core showing (and that seems to be the case) -- it will be fine.  Ropes get fuzzy with use.  I'd continue to watch that section to make sure it doesn't get worse, but would happily continue to use it, would happily lead on it, would happily whip on it.

Before going back out to use it today I rechecked all the worn sections and alas, believe I found evidence of a compromised core, looks like I will have a fresh 60m for a little while!

I suppose this can be a lesson to always double and triple check your gear!

Suburban Roadside wrote: told you so!

For the education of the uninformed;
Eastern Europeans, used to tape over core shots & lead & fall hard on those ropes.

 I am not suggesting that one should do that or that it was the safest thing to do but it was a regular thing that should be understood.

EDIT:
I See That Buck Rio !?
 Do Not Shave Your Rope, The only thing sketchy is if you do THAT!
If you understand the cause of the wear,: bad care when letting a beginner with less knowledge than yourself,
 hang on the rope,over an edge causing the sheath to get "fuzzy, then you can explain, that it looks used not damaged.
You used your rope roughly, take better care of your life line. 

Geez, no-one can take a joke around here...I thought this whole thread was a troll anyway.

Davis Badger wrote: Before going back out to use it today I rechecked all the worn sections and alas, believe I found evidence of a compromised core, looks like I will have a fresh 60m for a little while!

I suppose this can be a lesson to always double and triple check your gear!

ouch. Where on the rope is this section? Near the end, I hope? 

ouch. Where on the rope is this section? Near the end, I hope?

Thank God it was only 5 1/2 meters from the end. I cut it down just a few minutes ago. A little more than 60m will work fine for my immediate plans. 

Suburban Roadside wrote:

You do not need to retire or cut your rope. You do not need to worry about the  ~"if in doubt throw it out"~  comments that will follow (and collect, lots of "likes"),
 

You need to provide more information.

 What is the Make/Brand?  diameter/thickness?,
 
is there a bulge that feels ... squishy/soft?

 can you fold the bad spot over on itself not leaving any loop to see through? ( the core should not allow that)

  Ropes are made to be used, most are sturdy enough to last - so it sounds like your rope has been used but is not used up.

 Learn from the experience, always extend anchors, pad edges to protect the sheath & rope, use directionals, be attentive to what's going on...



Total bull pucky,   . . . . did you read what the cause was?
 
He was top roping noobs on course rock,

 it is just cosmetic sheath damage.

but if mommy or daddy think your gonna die play one off of the other for a new cord,
And some days with a guide....

Are you editing your posts to respond to people downthread?

This way lies madness.

Wow! I didnt see that as an option from your description of the type of abuse dolled out! What sort of edge radius was involved? what sort of weight and static forces were applied? How skinny is that piece of spaghetti & what brand/make is that shoelace like cord?

Davis Badger wrote: Before going back out to use it today I rechecked all the worn sections and alas, believe I found evidence of a compromised core, looks like I will have a fresh 60m for a little while!

I suppose this can be a lesson to always double and triple check your gear!

· 1 hour ago

Everett wrote· :Are you editing your posts to respond to people downthread?
This way lies madness.

Using a post that was opened hours earlier is  the way to stave off posting limits.

Open a post the moment it appears,
 realize that most if not all those who will respond will not have the experience that comes from having gear inherited over the last 4 decades.
So taking the initiative, opening 2 posts,
 to call out the stupidly over cautious and worse, (shaving)
using those 2 spaces for that purpose till someone thinks of something cute to say about it, as you have,
 then hope that having tried to point out what is & is not best practice, give up by adding #3 of the 4 posts.
That said,
While the current modern gear seems to have "planned obsolescence" built in & is weak in comparison to the stuff from the late '70s through the early 90s , As in this case,
Most climbers choose to err on the side of caution, when the circumstances warrant it as apparently in this case , whether or not the funds are up to that challenge.

I don't always have syrup;But when I Do It Is a STRONG & SPICY SAUCE  ! ! ! !
     
 ! ! ! !

Suburban Roadside wrote:

Wow! I didnt see that as an option from your description of the type of abuse dolled out! What sort of edge radius was involved? what sort of weight and static forces were applied? How skinny is that piece of spaghetti & what brand/make is that shoelace like cord?

· 1 hour agoUsing a post that was opened hours earlier is  the way to stave off posting limits.

Open a post the moment it appears,
 realize that most if not all those who will respond will not have the experience that comes from having gear inherited over the last 4 decades.
So taking the initiative, opening 2 posts,
 to call out the stupidly over cautious and worse, (shaving)
using those 2 spaces for that purpose till someone thinks of something cute to say about it, as you have,
 then hope that having tried to point out what is & is not best practice, give up by adding #3 of the 4 posts.
That said,
While the current modern gear seems to have "planned obsolescence" built in & is weak in comparison to the stuff from the late '70s through the early 90s , As in this case,
Most climbers choose to err on the side of caution, when the circumstances warrant it as apparently in this case , whether or not the funds are up to that challenge.