New climbing gym in Fort Collins

For those of you who have been/checked out the new Whetstone climbing gym wondering what others thoughts are of the place, quality of routes, other all impression.

Overall, I think it is one of the better climbing gyms I have been to. The large majority of the routes I have completed (climb up to 12s), have been fun and worth doing. Some feedback they have received are the easier routes are easier than what they have been graded. I think there are some inconsistencies, but overall I think the routes are true to their grade. Because of their space, the majority of their walls are not as tall as acent, but because of the layout, you don't have people standing on top of each other like in acent's horseshoe area. They also have a large bouldering area if you are into that. One downside is the lack of natural light, as the building was there before they moved in. They have your typical training pieces with moon board and gym, yoga (again no natural light), and a small pro store. They serve beer after 5 for 6 bucks a pint so that is fun. Overall, I like it better than acent and I think it is worth checking out!

Totally off topic but I'm moving to FC in a few weeks and looking for a room to rent, I'd prefer to live with climbers so any info would be great. I look forward to checking out this gym though, Ive heard good things. PM me if anyone is interested. Cheers folks

Actually read the waiver before you sign it. There are some odd and disconcerting things in it.

Addendum. The waiver has been changed since the first one was put out and is less onerous. 

I would agree that there are some odd stuff in the waiver. I wonder if that is what their lawyers wanted in it?

Examples?

Great gym! I agree that some of the easyer routs are graded a bit easy, but over all routs are true to grade. Great atmosphere, and really friendly people. I personally definitely like it better than ascent.

I've only climbed there once (Sunday).  Overall I liked it, but I thought the route setting was inconsistent and had some issues.   I'm there for training, so my perspective may be different from some others.   Also, my regular partner is 60lbs lighter than I am, so I'm conservative about taking lead falls, especially near the ground or places where she'll get yanked head-first into a roof or big hold directly above her head (three places like that).   No Ohms available, unlike Ascent.

1) It seemed that several of the routes were set without consideration of having a stable clipping stance, making the clip was the crux.  After experiencing this several times I started clipping, unhappily near the ground, way above my head.
2) Several of the routes wandered left/right to the point that clipping was problematic: couldn't reach the one you really wanted to prevent a big pendulum, so clipped the wrong one, climbed sideways, clipped the next one and then had to back-clean the previous one.

3) Several of the routes had a stopper-crux totally uncharacteristic for the grade and with the rest of the route; not so good for training.  Eg. Nice 11+ is flowing along when I'm faced with two completely open crimps and the smeary foot is only 3' below them.   I'm 6'1" and couldn't even rock onto the footer without both hands blowing off.   A lower footer would've been nice.
4) Spacing: See above for one example.   Need more footers for people of different sizes and to mitigate smaller people having to do so many jumpy moves (potential shoulder injuries).

5) Need some 10 & 11 jug hauls in the steep part of the lead wall.  Not a single one!
6) Most of the route ratings were reasonable but some were clearly underrated.  Seemed to be setter specific.  Perhaps a voting system like Movement?
7) Big holds that stick out a foot from the wall should never be on a lead wall that's not steep enough for the climber to clearly miss them during a fall and after falling when they swing-in.

I'll post the things I liked later.  Oh, just wanted to acknowledge that these types of things are common in many gyms.

Ken! Care to elaborate about the waiver oddities?

Brendan Armesy wrote: Ken! Care to elaborate about the waiver oddities?

Here's the link to the waiver:

​Waiver​​​

Ken Duncan wrote: Actually read the waiver before you sign it. There are some odd and disconcerting things in it. 

Did not know people actually read the climbing gym waiver.

Nothing stuck out to me, it looks like a standard waiver created by an overpriced lawyer for our litigious society.

Travis Bieber wrote:

Did not know people actually read the climbing gym waiver.

A long time ago in a galaxy far far away, I used to race bicycles.  A waiver had to be signed, and counter signed by a parent, for each race.  My dad had a lawyer friend who told me that all waivers are bogus, they just discourage lay-people from suing, and in no way prevent a valid suit from being filed and/or won.  

I stopped reading them after that.  It's saved me a lot of time and stress over the years   

John Byrnes wrote:

A long time ago in a galaxy far far away, I used to race bicycles.  A waiver had to be signed, and counter signed by a parent, for each race.  My dad had a lawyer friend who told me that all waivers are bogus, they just discourage lay-people from suing, and in no way prevent a valid suit from being filed and/or won.  

I stopped reading them after that.  It's saved me a lot of time and stress over the years   

I just figured most people understand and know climbing either in a gym or outside comes with it risks. You're choosing to participate in the knowingly dangerous activities. 

• Waivers are what they are; an attempt to inform a visitor of risks and protect the establishment/proprietor. You can always sue if you like. Reading them critically is a surefire way to cause anxiety. Ever read your insurance policy onion sheets?
• Lighting, sound, overall appearance is ok, using similarly colored holds in close proximity can be confusing. Not that tape, tags, etc., don't have their own issues. No perfect solution to this yet that I have ever seen?
• Big place...20k+ sf of wall...3 other public gyms (+CSU) within stone's throw (Ascent, Wood Mountain Bouldering in Loveland, Miramont/Genesis). Maybe the 'burbs here can support them all? Time will tell.
• Staff are nice enough; everything still shiny and new.
• Indoor route setting and rating is always subject to interpretation. The harder the grade the better the setting it seemed. Consensus rules right?

Best of luck!

I used to own a gym and I never read my own waiver. The lawyers wrote it and my insurance company accepted it so that was enough for me.
 

John Byrnes wrote: I've only climbed there once (Sunday).  Overall I liked it, but I thought the route setting was inconsistent and had some issues.   I'm there for training, so my perspective may be different from some others.   Also, my regular partner is 60lbs lighter than I am, so I'm conservative about taking lead falls, especially near the ground or places where she'll get yanked head-first into a roof or big hold directly above her head (three places like that).   No Ohms available, unlike Ascent.

1) It seemed that several of the routes were set without consideration of having a stable clipping stance, making the clip was the crux.  After experiencing this several times I started clipping, unhappily near the ground, way above my head.
2) Several of the routes wandered left/right to the point that clipping was problematic: couldn't reach the one you really wanted to prevent a big pendulum, so clipped the wrong one, climbed sideways, clipped the next one and then had to back-clean the previous one.

3) Several of the routes had a stopper-crux totally uncharacteristic for the grade and with the rest of the route; not so good for training.  Eg. Nice 11+ is flowing along when I'm faced with two completely open crimps and the smeary foot is only 3' below them.   I'm 6'1" and couldn't even rock onto the footer without both hands blowing off.   A lower footer would've been nice.
4) Spacing: See above for one example.   Need more footers for people of different sizes and to mitigate smaller people having to do so many jumpy moves (potential shoulder injuries).

5) Need some 10 & 11 jug hauls in the steep part of the lead wall.  Not a single one!
6) Most of the route ratings were reasonable but some were clearly underrated.  Seemed to be setter specific.  Perhaps a voting system like Movement?
7) Big holds that stick out a foot from the wall should never be on a lead wall that's not steep enough for the climber to clearly miss them during a fall and after falling when they swing-in.

I'll post the things I liked later.  Oh, just wanted to acknowledge that these types of things are common in many gyms.

This post is accurate, I second everything except perhaps #3.  And highlight #7, I mentioned this directly to the staff.

Overall, I think I like it better than Ascent. Nice layout, staff has been great, closer to my house, more bouldering terrain with less "comp style" setting. The two yoga classes I've attended at Whetstone were pretty crap, one arena where Ascent definitely holds a strong edge at this point.