Mt Baker/Aconcagua/Kili/Denali layering system

• Evening guys. I’m completely new to this whole mountaineering world and I’m trying to understand the layering systems and all the brands pros and cons. I’m doing a 6 day course on Mt Baker in June then Either Kili or Aconcagua early next year in order to work my way up to Denali and so on. I know for Denali, and 7000-8000m peaks I will need a strong Parka. Keep in mind I want to buy items that are useful and durable for future expeditions. Any comments/suggestions are greatly appreciated. If you think I should trade anything listed for a better option, please let me know. This is what I have compiled to buy so far:                                                      Base layer: Patagonia R1 zip up top and bottom or any merino wool set.                                                           Mid layer top: The North Face Hybrid Ventrix Jacket or the Arc’teryx Konseal hoody.                                   Softshell: Arc’teryx Gamma LT Hoody or Gamma MX          Hardshell: Arc’teryx Alpha FL, Alpha AR orBeta SV         Down Insulated Jacket: I got several options for this. Atom AR, Cerium SV, Thorium AR, Rab Andes or Rab Positron.                                                                       Parkas: Several options as well. FF Khumbu Parka, FF Frontpoint Jacket, MH Absolute Zero Parka, or Arc’teryx Firebee AR Parka.                                         I lean a bit towards Arc’teryx because I’ve read so many great things about them but i want more comments and/or ideas.  Thank you!!!

For Denali I did an R3 hoody, BD stance hoody (midweight sunthetic puffy) and an absolute zero parka. Debated the absolute zero vs bringing my marmot Greenland puffy but was glad to have the warmer more durable jacket since we had a lot of terrible weather.  
For the pants I Had thin merino long underwear, 200 weight fleece pants, BD dawn patrol soft shell pants and MH compressor pants (synthetic puffy). 

Also had hardshell pants and jacket but was always cold enough that I didnt need them.  Cached then at 11K. 

That combo would be pretty good for all except the absolute zero would be overkill for all the other peaks. 

Maybe check our the marmot Greenland which is almost as warm but much less durable.  Would be more than enough for acongogua and you could play if safe for Denali and so late May and June for warmer temps. Honestly the Greenland is warm enough for early season too but I debated both and was glad in the end for the warmer one because of the weather we had. 

Wore the r3 on the lower glacier and added the softshell when the wind picked up.

Added the midweight puffy when it got colder and the absolute zero for camp at and above 11. Also wore the absolute zero descending from the summit and about half way back to camp. 

Reyna...something nice for Denali is a farmer john style fleece suit. Something like the Blue Ice Clothing one piece Fleece Hot suit with a front zip and a drop seat (for when nature calls). The full fleece suit is so much nicer than the usual top and bottom style polypro. Also, don't get bogged down with more than a combined weight of 80 lbs for your backpack and sled on Denali. Most people take way too much crap and cache it or don't use it. Having been successful on Denali, Aconcagua, and Kilimanjaro...I'd say Aconcagua is much better preparation for Denali then Kilimanjaro, unless you're still determining your ability to acclimate to altitude.

1. Get a light-colored, hooded, very thin baselayer like the OR Echo Hoody.  It is often hot on the lower portions of big mountains, and you want sun coverage that isn't very insulated and breathes well.

2. The Ventrix is great.  I have it and use it a lot.  I used it on Rainier and will be using it on Denali this summer.

3. Ditch the softshell.  Some people love them, but I don't think they have enough value to justify their weight and space.  Get the Patagonia Houdini for wind and light precipitation protection.  it weighs 3 ounces and takes up way less space.

4. The Khumbu and Absolute Zero are WAY overkill on everything but Denali (maybe not WAY overkill for Acon, but probably not ideal).  The problem here is that mountains like Baker, Kili and even Aconcagua aren't comparable to Denali in terms of temperatures.  Here is what I am planning for Denali layering:

OR Echo Hoody or thicker merino, depending on day
Possibly a down vest
NF Ventrix
Patagonia Houdini
Arc'teryx Nuclei or Montbell Plasma 1000 (depends on which parka I pick)
Arc'teryx Firebee or Montbell Permafrost

You can pair a lighter midweight like the Atom AR with the Khumbu/Absolute zero parka, but you won't have a parka that is ideal for Baker/Kili or even Aconcagua.  If I were you, I would consider getting the warmer Nuclei or similar and pair it with the Firebee or Frontpoint.  This gives you more flexibility because the Firebee/Frontpoint won't be such overkill for Baker/Kili/Acon like the Khumbu or Absolute Zero will.  If you take the Absolute Zero and a lighter midweight, you will want a separate parka for Baker, Kili and probably Aconcagua.  Also, I personally wouldn't consider the Firebee + Atom to be sufficient for Denali.

There are other great brands to consider.  Montbell makes really great lightweight stuff, as does Mountain Hardwear.  The Nilas is great, and if paired with a warm enough midweight (and sized correctly), it could be a good solution.  I have the slightly lighter fill weight (180g vs 210g) MH Phantom, and it's awesome.  Rab also makes great stuff.  Their old Neutrino Plus would have been a good contender here, but they don't make it anymore (it was baffled, whereas the current model is stitched through).

Good luck!  You'll obviously need two different boots for these trips, and two different sleeping bags as well.  Baker to Denali is a pretty big spectrum of temps and conditions, and while a lot of the gear can be used on both, some of it can't or shouldn't.

Thank you guys for the responses. I’m gonna try some stuff on in stores but I live in Georgia right now and selection of stores is extremely limited here in the SE. The Marmot Greenland I read was good but they don’t make it for women’s so I’d definitely need to try it on a men’s size for fitting.
What do you guys think of the Rab Valiance jacket or the Outdoor Research Alpine down jacket for Mt Baker/Kili? I’d add the Parka over it on Denali/Aconcagua. 

Well Reyna, all above is sound advice, I will however add one or two nuggets.  What ever down/synthetic outer layer you get, have it come with pit zips.  When you heat up it is often easier at the moment to open those rather than stop and pack due to terrain.  Also, you will find that weather changes fast and this will mitigate the back and forth a bit.  Then, do not forget to layer your feet and hands.  A good glove system can also save time, comfort, and works a lot like the above pit zip system for temp. fluctuations.  Good luck.  Roy

I would personally take it one step at a time.  You're going to learn a lot just on that Baker course and you may find through it that you prefer something different.  If you've already purchased gear for 8000m peaks, it may not work out.  Focus on your current objective and the gear for that.  Then take those lessons and focus on your next objective + gear.  

Many of the layers I use in the PNW for mountaineering I used on Logan, and will use when I lead up Denali next year.  If you get your standard PNW level gear dialed in, you won't really need much more above that, especially since it seems like you're going guided.

As another poster suggested, something like an OR Echo Hoody is going to be one of the most useful pieces you own.  I wear it on most of my PNW climbs and spent a large chunk of my 25 days on Logan in one.

Clothing is in a way just like any other gear- you need to figure out what works for you.  You'll very likely learn a ton on Baker this summer.  For clothings specifically, you'll learn what layer work well for you and what don't.  Here are some of my notes on what you listed.

Base layer: (Patagonia R1 zip up top and bottom or any merino wool set.) For something basic I'd just go with merino wool all around. I like a thin top with a hoody.  The Icebreaker Sphere Hoody is my favorite.

Mid layer top: (The North Face Hybrid Ventrix Jacket or the Arc’teryx Konseal hoody.) Kinda hard to go wrong here IMO.  I've never loved or hated a midlayer.

Softshell: (Arc’teryx Gamma LT Hoody or Gamma MX). The Gamma MX is insulated and a bit shorter than the LT.  I prefer the MX on technical climbs where I don't want to dink with layers.  I think the LT is a more versatile softshell and probably better for what you are doing.  I own both of these.

Hardshell: (Arc’teryx Alpha FL, Alpha AR orBeta SV) I believe the Alpha SL is the best choice.

Down Insulated Jacket: (I got several options for this. Atom AR, Cerium SV, Thorium AR, Rab Andes or Rab Positron.) These are all pretty heavy/warm and are getting close to the parka category.  You want something here that is still reasonable to move in.  Keep in mind this gets layered over everything listed above and still goes under the parka.  I'd go with the Mountain Hardwear Ghostwhisperer for something light, or the Arc'teryx Cerium LT for something a little more robust. I also like the Atom LT for when I need something even more robust.

Parkas: (Several options as well. FF Khumbu Parka, FF Frontpoint Jacket, MH Absolute Zero Parka, or Arc’teryx Firebee AR Parka.). Keep in mind that I haven't climbed Denali or Aconcagua. I've climbed plenty of 5/6000m peaks, but everything is different.  My parka of choice is the Arcteryx Alpha IS, but it very well may not be warm enough for Denali.