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Ouray Ice Fest - Demo Gear?

Original Post
Natalie N · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 39

Hi everyone,

I'll be headed to the Ouray Ice Fest to get a proper intro to ice climbing. With that said, I don't own any ice gear. (I have a helmet, harness, and could bring a dry rope, anchor set, draws). For those who have been in the ice fest in recent years, how difficult is it to get fully outfitted (boots, crampons, axes, gloves, any other necessities) simply based on demo gear? I just don't want to end up gearless and unable to climb nor unnecessarily get rentals outside of the Fest when I already have a gear card.

Any info would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Natalie

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

Natalie,
Demo gear during the festival is an opportunity for people to out different tools to see which they prefer.

It is not free rentals for the day to see if you like ice climbing. Grab a set of tools, take a clinic or do a lap or two, then return them to the vendor in order to try something different.

There is no empty ice at the festival: you’ll find an occupied or reserved rope on every route in the canyon. If you haven’t already signed up for a clinic or two, you’ll have little luck finding ice to climb in the gorge. 

To get gear, arrive really early to get a good selection. Please don’t take your tools out all day. Return them at noon at the latest, then swap them for a different tool.

Demo boots are the hardest to get and in the shortest supply. Best bet is to rent boots and crampons from a local shop or at Ouray Mountain Sports then try different tools to see what you like. It takes a pretty savvy climber to tell the difference between two different technical crampons. Ice tools are different. Each one has a distinctive feel and you’ll find you favorite pretty quickly.

Best strategy is to go with a group. Everyone should be set up with their own (or rented) boots and crampons. When the demo booths open, scatter out and get every different ice tool you can find. Don’t worry about pairs of tools—for testing, pairs don’t matter. Then, as a group, go find an empty patch of ice, set up a rope and
 gang bang the hell out of it while testing, comparing and evaluating the tools.

Bring your own gloves, goggles or safety glasses.
Climb safe,
Mal

Natalie N · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 39

Thank Mal for the thorough response! I have a better sense of what to expect now. Thanks for the tips, I'll be bringing a set of gear to the Fest.

Happy climbing!
Natalie

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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