Mountain Project Logo

Racking Nuts

Original Post
Jacob Kantor · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 30

So I just bought some new nuts and now I have a set of bd stoppers (4-13), dmm offset alloys (7-11), and dmm peenuts (1-5). My question is how I should go about racking all my nuts now. They way I see it I have three options:-keep the three sets separate-rank all my nuts by size and divide them into 2 or 3 different biners (regardless of offset or not)-bds on one biner, all offsets on annotherWhat do you guys think? Thanks!

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Offsets on one and split the rest onto two. I like grouping by size (all smalls reguardless of brand on one and bigger on another with slight overlap), but have heard the argument of dropping one caribiner you lost all the small or big nuts. 

Bug Boy · · Boulder, CO :( · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 81

Rack all the nuts on to a metolious mini biner 

Ken G · · Meyers, CA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 165

I just put about 8 to 10 random nuts per biner.

Scott D · · Tucson · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Offsets on one biner regular nuts on another.  I prefer oval biners because they are easier to manipulate and select than on other shaped biners.  Experiment to see what you like.

Danny Herrera · · Sebastopol · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 562

????????????

 its gonna be personal preference how you rack your own gear.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,967

It's a matter of preference, but it also depends on where you're climbing and how nut-intensive the routes are. For nut-intensive routes (finger cracks, etc.) I rack fewer nuts on a biner, but for routes that have few placements (think Gunks-style horizontals or mostly bolts) I sometimes put all the nuts on one biner.

Choss the Bolter · · Bosler Wyoming · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Scott and Sara wrote: Offsets on one biner regular nuts on another.  I prefer oval biners because they are easier to manipulate and select than on other shaped biners.  Experiment to see what you like.

Agree on the oval biners for me.  Can spin the gear around to find your placement.  

For 90% of climbs I rack with two ovals of passive gear, one large and one small (nuts, offsets, small hexes, tricams).  

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

If you are asking how we all rack nuts, each to their own...

I rack BD stoppers and DMM offsets by size on two biners, so each biner has a range of mixed nuts, offset and regular.  

I find I rarely need anything bigger than a #11 stopper, so I rack #8-11 stopper and the two biggest offsets on one notch-less Kong oval. All of the smaller ones goes on another biner. Simple.

I also have a full rack of WC Rocks that I can use to supplement the rack if needed. But I usually will add another cam before another nut.

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35

I would avoid a mini krab for racking nuts, unless you have plenty of money to replace the ones you will inevitably drop while fiddling with the set

Kelley Gilleran · · Meadow Vista · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,851

I hate when I rack my nuts

PatMas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 40

Two basic schools of thought on splitting them.

1. Ease of use - small nuts on one, large nuts on one. More likely to get the right size first try.

2. Eliminating a catastrophic drop - odds on one biner, evens on another. If you drop one set you don’t loose every small nut you have mid route.

Most people seem to rack option 1

Ken G · · Meyers, CA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 165

I vote option 2

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Ken G wrote: I vote option 2

You probably rack gates out too, don't you???   

Ken G · · Meyers, CA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 165

Didn’t realize his post said evens and odds. That’s a little to ocd for me. I actually rack nuts pretty much the same way you stated earlier. I have BD stoppers and DMM offsets a mixture of each on two biners. If I know Ill use lots of them I’ll bring both biners if not just one. Sometimes adjust accordingly.

Yes I do rack gates out. Like you said earlier to each their own.  Nice troll.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Ken G wrote: Didn’t realize his post said evens and odds. That’s a little to ocd for me. I actually rack nuts pretty much the same way you stated earlier. I have BD stoppers and DMM offsets a mixture of each on two biners. If I know Ill use lots of them I’ll bring both biners if not just one. Sometimes adjust accordingly.

Yes I do rack gates out. Like you said earlier to each their own.  Nice troll.

Nutcraft is a dying art, we should all be happy anybody is even asking about it. I am even guilty of "forgetting" to take nuts on routes once and a while.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

If you are under pressure in hard free-climbing, the odd-even split is a major drawback.

Learn not to drop stuff.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

Depending on the climb I have 3-4 sets of nuts that I might put on my rack that are grouped by size. And depending on the nut size I tend to have around six to eight per biner (many sizes are double). For the OP I would probably have each set on their own biner because then I know what I am grabbing. If you end up with doubles of the BD nuts split them on to two biners. But do whatever makes sense to you.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

I put regular and offsets together and separate my nut "rack" into two different BD ovals. So small and large. Re. the "catastrophic drop" scenario: I like nuts but it's hard for me to imagine a situation in which dropping all my small or large nuts would constitute a catastrophe.

I'm actually considering moving to carrying just my offsets, which range from Peenuts to the big blue DMM offset. I find those more useful most of the time than regular nuts. And I own lots of small cams. 

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 14,020

3 ovals, racked with something like #9 and above, then #8-6 on one and finally #5 and below on the third biner.  Of course I have doubles and even triples in a few sizes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
Post a Reply to "Racking Nuts"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.