Best crampons for vertical ice
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I'm leaning towards mono point, as that seems to be the preferred style for vertical ice. But I'm an ice rookie and am open to advICE. Thanks! |
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Should also mention that I'm going to be using them with the Sportiva G5. |
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I have both mono and dual points. If you have only a single pair dual points will probably serve you better all around. Dual points will spread the load out more which is important for thin ice. As well give one more stability. Mono points can more precise and slot into the ice. Also they are better when it is really cold and the ice is brittle. |
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I agree that duals are usually better for most ice. One exception I found is when the ice is realitively featureless and it’s like 20 below. Then the monos seem a bit better. |
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Snaggletooths |
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With a whopping single pitch in, I can say that my mentor said I did great, but, was more or less on one point, much of the time. Even though I worked on feet straight in, they still (apparently) were sneaking out. Probably my old knees... |
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Petzl Darts make you nimble and light |
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There are a few applications where monos are better, but unless I am regularly at an ice park and on super steep and hard ice, duals are way more useful and have a MUCH wider application range. I climbed in a few dual/vertical crampons (20+ years on Camp Ice Invaders) and just got some G12s after retiring a few old pairs of vertical points. The G12s have preformed very well, even on WI4. If I were climbing WI4 and above regularly, I might invest in dual/vertical points, but would't consider monos unless there was something very specific I was going after. For any lower angle stuff, I find monos very annoying (wobbly/twisty...). |
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The answer to your question (vertical ice performance) is probably a rigid crampon like the Grivel Rambos or a fixed point semi rigid model for light weight (eg Petzl Dart/Dartwin). |
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(Camp?) Bladerunners seem to combine the best of mono and dual, they've got a single longer point and two shorter points, one on each side. In any event, they seem really stable. I think the above-mentioned Petzel Darts may be similar. |
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One recommendation would be to purchase the Petzl Lynx. While pricey, they have the ability switch between dual and mono point configurations, allowing you to try both. While climbing on top rope you can learn the advantages and subtle nuances of both setups and in the end, decide what you like best based on your own experience. |
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Regardless of a mono or dual point setup, WORK ON YOUR FOOTWORK!!! If your footwork is good, you can climb in just about any crampon. If your footwork is shit, no crampon will make you better. |
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Bladerunners also can be switched between mono and dual....but as Sam says "WORK ON YOUR FOOTWORK!!! If your footwork is good, you can climb in just about any crampon. "
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Robert Hall wrote: (Camp?) Bladerunners seem to combine the best of mono and dual, they've got a single longer point and two shorter points, one on each side. In any event, they seem really stable. Based on my experience, the above is the current answer to the OP's question. Regarding the "work on your footwork" mantra - obviously can't argue with this statement's general intent but ice climbing is a hugely gear dependent sport and thus gear makes a huge difference. Yes, a great ice climber can get up anything with any 'pon, and Honnold can climb 5.11 in approach shoes etc. etc. but that doesn't mean crampons don't make a huge difference. For example, climbing a WI5 in Bladerunners typically will feel chill to me but would feel sketchy and pumpy using Petzl Lynx (Lynx look good and paper, like similar to the Bladerunners but the shallow angle of the front points and the relatively small secondary points made them climb poorly IMO). |
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G20+ all day every day. Monopoints require half the kick that duals do to get your purchase and they are inarguably superior for mixed. |
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Lynx (or bladerunners) to play around with and see what you like; I started WI with cheap horizontal point alpine 'pons and had a rough go. With Lynx (or bladerunners), I am able to mess around with different setups depending on conditions. Heels Down, Toes Up! good luck! |
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Whichever fit your boot well, are attached to your boot well, is within your budget and whichever you prefer. Different ice warrants different crampons (vert, dual, horizontals) in my experience. If I were to recommend one style to start it would be dual verts, Cyborg or Lynx or sim. to have replaceable front points or Dartwins or G22 or sim. for lighter, un-replaceable type. |
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Some good advice: |
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Dual horizontal points for everything up to wi6. Especially for when the ice is candled. |
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+1 for Petzl Lynx. Great fit with my Baturas which I think would be very similar to the new G5's. |
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Sam Miller wrote: G20+ all day every day. Monopoints require half the kick that duals do to get your purchase and they are inarguably superior for mixed. G20+ hands down. Superior stick and you get the stability from aggressive secondary points. If the ice is runneled, fluted or otherwise uneven the dual points aren’t going to grab evenly or often only one is sticking at all. If the ice is nice and smooth it doesn’t matter, anything will work. IMO |