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Best crampons for vertical ice

Original Post
Nick G · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0

I'm leaning towards mono point, as that seems to be the preferred style for vertical ice. But I'm an ice rookie and am open to advICE. Thanks!

Nick G · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0

Should also mention that I'm going to be using them with the Sportiva G5.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

I have both mono and dual points. If you have only a single pair dual points will probably serve you better all around. Dual points will spread the load out more which is important for thin ice. As well give one more stability. Mono points can more precise and slot into the ice.  Also they are better when it is really cold and the ice is brittle.

Otherwise when the world is cold, remember this: “Ladies and gentlemen, take my advice. Pull down your pants and slide on the ice.” - Sidney Freedman.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

I agree that duals are usually better for most ice. One exception I found is when the ice is realitively featureless and it’s like 20 below. Then the monos seem a bit better.

Had bd cyborgs which were ok, but I found the lynx to be a big step up for me!  Can do mono or dual so try both and see what works better for u. 

LL Biner · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

Snaggletooths
Good for just about everything, and up to WI4
Dual points are more stable, once you stop dancing around, çause if you do, they can pop.
Snaggletooths give you the stability of duals and the precision of monos.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

With a whopping single pitch in, I can say that my mentor said I did great, but, was more or less on one point, much of the time. Even though I worked on feet straight in, they still (apparently) were sneaking out. Probably my old knees...

I was in borrowed crampons, horizontal dual point, venerable, but they did a lot of climbing strapped to their owner. Including FAs. He, no longer does ice. Lost some toes to frostbite.

So? Talk to the experienced folks who are taking you out. They should know what will work best for the trip they have in mind for you. Ice, is where I totally bow to experience, for myself, anyway. That also means only top notch partners.

I will also add, I was super lucky for that outing. The ice was barely frozen, and very, very easy to climb. A friend recently had both toe bails break,  while climbing on New year's Eve. Way below zero! I can't imagine what the ice was like...

Best, Helen

B Porter · · Maine · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 128

Petzl Darts make you nimble and light

Joe Prescott · · Berlin Germany · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 6

There are a few applications where monos are better, but unless I am regularly at an ice park and on super steep and hard ice, duals are way more useful and have a MUCH wider application range. I climbed in a few dual/vertical crampons (20+ years on Camp Ice Invaders) and just got some G12s after retiring a few old pairs of vertical points. The G12s have preformed very well, even on WI4. If I were climbing WI4 and above regularly, I might invest in dual/vertical points, but would't consider monos unless there was something very specific I was going after. For any lower angle stuff, I find monos very annoying (wobbly/twisty...).
joe

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

The answer to your question (vertical ice performance) is probably a rigid crampon like the Grivel Rambos or a fixed point semi rigid model for light weight (eg Petzl Dart/Dartwin). 

That said, those aren't ideal for anything beyond the ice (walking sucks on rigid models and they're heavy, no anti bailing plates for snow or replaceable points on the lightest models).

I think if you're starting out and you're going to own a single crampon it's hard to beat the versatility of one of the modular semi-rigid models like the Petzl Lynx or Cassin Blade Runners. Can make them mono or dual point, replace the points when they're worn, antibots and more points for snow travel. 

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,893

 (Camp?) Bladerunners seem to combine the best of mono and dual, they've got a single longer point and two shorter points, one on each side. In any event, they seem really stable.  I think the above-mentioned Petzel Darts may be similar.

PS - After the first year out the Bladerunners had a recall....seems those who few climbers who really torqued the mono (e.g. in cracks) were breaking them. (I think they had like, a dozen reported failures, but PLEASE don't quote me on that number!)  I marked mine before sending them back for "repair" and noted that they sent back a completely new pair. Good service !    

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 222

One recommendation would be to purchase the Petzl Lynx. While pricey, they have the ability switch between dual and mono point configurations, allowing you to try both. While climbing on top rope you can learn the advantages and subtle nuances of both setups and in the end, decide what you like best based on your own experience.  

Sam Sala · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 82

Regardless of a mono or dual point setup, WORK ON YOUR FOOTWORK!!! If your footwork is good, you can climb in just about any crampon. If your footwork is shit, no crampon will make you better.

That being said, dual points will feel a bit more stable in pure ice, but can be a bit of a pain in delicate mixed terrain, as monos are a bit easier to pocket.

I run Batura 2.0s and a BD Cyborg setup as monos full-time, since I spend more time on mixed routes than pure ice and I've gotten used to keeping quiet feet in ice with the monos.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,893
Bladerunners also can be switched between mono and dual....but as Sam says "WORK ON YOUR FOOTWORK!!! If your footwork is good, you can climb in just about any crampon. "  
Doug Hutchinson · · Seattle and Eastrevy · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 346
Robert Hall wrote:  (Camp?) Bladerunners seem to combine the best of mono and dual, they've got a single longer point and two shorter points, one on each side. In any event, they seem really stable.

Based on my experience, the above is the current answer to the OP's question. 

Regarding the "work on your footwork" mantra - obviously can't argue with this statement's general intent but ice climbing is a hugely gear dependent sport and thus gear makes a huge difference. Yes, a great ice climber can get up anything with any 'pon, and Honnold can climb 5.11 in approach shoes etc. etc. but that doesn't mean crampons don't make a huge difference. For example, climbing a WI5 in Bladerunners typically will feel chill to me but would feel sketchy and pumpy using Petzl Lynx (Lynx look good and paper, like similar to the Bladerunners but the shallow angle of the front points and the relatively small secondary points made them climb poorly IMO).
Sam Miller · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 165

G20+ all day every day. Monopoints require half the kick that duals do to get your purchase and they are inarguably superior for mixed.

moclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Lynx (or bladerunners) to play around with and see what you like; I started WI with cheap horizontal point alpine 'pons and had a rough go.  With Lynx (or bladerunners), I am able to mess around with different setups depending on conditions. Heels Down, Toes Up!  good luck!

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 176

Whichever fit your boot well, are attached to your boot well, is within your budget and whichever you prefer. Different ice warrants different crampons (vert, dual, horizontals) in my experience. If I were to recommend one style to start it would be dual verts, Cyborg or Lynx or sim. to have replaceable front points or Dartwins or G22 or sim. for lighter, un-replaceable type. 

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,419

Some good advice:

https://www.chickswithpicks.net/lowdown-crampon-configuration/

http://willgadd.com/664/

My current fav are the Dartwin.  Most of all, get a crampon that fits your boot really well.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

Dual horizontal points for everything up to wi6. Especially for when the ice is candled.

For rockhard fully filled in ice vertical points win out.

Koy · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 85

+1 for Petzl Lynx.  Great fit with my Baturas which I think would be very similar to the new G5's.

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
Sam Miller wrote: G20+ all day every day. Monopoints require half the kick that duals do to get your purchase and they are inarguably superior for mixed.

G20+ hands down. Superior stick and you get the stability from aggressive secondary points. If the ice is runneled, fluted or otherwise uneven the dual points aren’t going to grab evenly or often only one is sticking at all. If the ice is nice and smooth it doesn’t matter, anything will work. IMO

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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