Black Diamond vs DMM offset nuts 7-11
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Does one set perform substantially different from the other? |
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I went with DMM for two reason: |
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A short review. - https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114462651/bd-offset-nuts |
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Max Rausch wrote: A short review. - https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114462651/bd-offset-nuts Right on, somehow I missed that when I searched for this earlier. My local store sells both sets for the same price, and the BD set comes with a racking biner whereas the DMM set does not. For this reasons I am leaning towards BD, but I want to be sure that I'm not missing something in terms of their quality/functionality. FWIW, I mainly climb limestone. |
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I like the angles of the DMM offsets better. Angles seem less subtle on DMM. I loved my hugh banner offsets but sold them when i left climbing for a chunk of time. My understanding is that DMM matched the design of HB & when i compared the BD & DMM i liked the more obvious angles & offsets of DMM. Plus the DMM shape was familiar to me. |
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& in hindsight just read that nice review linked above. It was the rounder edges & fatter shape that didnt appeal as much to me (& now that i see them side by side i do like the deeper scallop of DMM). |
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I like them both, I find the DMMs usually set a little better in places like Eldo, but the BD ones are just as good in the long run. I got a set of both and have just started carrying both sets and leaving some of the normal nuts behind. The BDs are a little fatter and rounder than the DMMs, but perform the same and cover a different range. Overall I don't think one set is necessarily better than the other. I will say that I like both the BDs and DMMs wayyyyy better than the Wild Country offset rocks. |
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BD for two reasons: |
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I rack both the DMM and WC off sets, and don’t carry any traditional nuts in the larger sizes. The big advantage of the DMMs is they can slot in and around crystals because they are molded with insets/grooves on two sides. The DMMs have stiffer wires than the WCs, which is nice. The smaller WCs (red and blue) have excellent shapes, long and narrow, they along with the yellow DMM are the “life savers.” The big blue DMM tends to be very nice in certain spots which don’t quite work for a cam; it’s my favorite nut. The DMMs are heavier than the WCs. |
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Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. It’s a lost craft. |
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DMM because BD just got into the offset nuts game to just take a slice of the market but just added a biner to undercut the price. BD hasn't really come up with any innovation for years, I bet they just go to the same factory that makes nuts and slap their logo on them. I do like the Camalots larger than#1 though |