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Black Diamond vs DMM offset nuts 7-11

Original Post
Delaney Bray-Stone · · Kimberley, BC · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 122

Does one set perform substantially different from the other?

They both weigh about the same. AFAIK the BD set overall is a little bit smaller, and has 10kN ratings as opposed to DMM's 12kN, but otherwise they seem very much comparable.

Kevin Green · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

I went with DMM for two reason:
1) Every piece of equipment I have used/have by DMM has been exceptional. Everything is smooth, durable, and well thought out.
2) I want to support smaller companies that make quality gear.

As you said, not much difference in the actual product. 

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

A short review. - ​https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114462651/bd-offset-nuts

In summary, they work great, but I like the coating on the DMM's better.

Delaney Bray-Stone · · Kimberley, BC · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 122
Max Rausch wrote: A short review. - https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114462651/bd-offset-nuts

In summary, they work great, but I like the coating on the DMM's better.

Right on, somehow I missed that when I searched for this earlier.


My local store sells both sets for the same price, and the BD set comes with a racking biner whereas the DMM set does not. For this reasons I am leaning towards BD, but I want to be sure that I'm not missing something in terms of their quality/functionality.

FWIW, I mainly climb limestone.
Peter Underwood · · Tucson · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 207

I like the angles of the DMM offsets better. Angles seem less subtle on DMM.  I loved my hugh banner offsets but sold them when i left climbing for a chunk of time.  My understanding is that DMM matched the design of HB & when i compared the BD & DMM i liked the more obvious angles & offsets of DMM.  Plus the DMM shape was familiar to me.
 Mind you this was side by side visual comparison & i havent placed BD offsets & maybe because i was familiar with DMM looking offsets from using HB in the past i was more comfortable with that shape.  But i remember comparing those 2 offset brands a second time b4 purchase & i was convinced that i liked DMM better.

Also, i am quite sure the DMM has deeper scallops & i prefer that, as they can slide over raised areas nicely.

I guess if i am looking for a nonstandard nut placement i like a more drastic departure from standard nut shape & BD offsets dont seem that offset to me tho i am sure they work great.

Peter Underwood · · Tucson · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 207

& in hindsight just read that nice review linked above.  It was the rounder edges & fatter shape that didnt appeal as much to me (& now that i see them side by side i do like the deeper scallop of DMM).
But, have to agree that its a nut & they will all fit a certain crack

Keith W · · Westminster · Joined May 2015 · Points: 95

I like them both, I find the DMMs usually set a little better in places like Eldo, but the BD ones are just as good in the long run. I got a set of both and have just started carrying both sets and leaving some of the normal nuts behind. The BDs are a little fatter and rounder than the DMMs, but perform the same and cover a different range. Overall I don't think one set is necessarily better than the other. I will say that I like both the BDs and DMMs wayyyyy better than the Wild Country offset rocks.

Taylor Lapeyre · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 164

BD for two reasons:

1. Nice rounded edges, which makes them less likely to get stuck and hard to clean. The DMMs would get stuck a lot more often than the BDs, just because their edges are pretty sharp.
2. Width to height ratio is nicer. DMMs are pretty tall and not as "deep," whereas the BDs are "deeper" and (I think) make better contact with the rock.

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 21

I rack both the DMM and WC off sets, and don’t carry any traditional nuts in the larger sizes. The big advantage of the DMMs is they can slot in and around crystals because they are molded with insets/grooves on two sides.  The DMMs have stiffer wires than the WCs, which is nice.   The smaller WCs (red and blue) have excellent shapes, long and narrow, they along with the yellow DMM are the “life savers.”  The big blue DMM tends to be very nice in certain spots which don’t quite work for a cam; it’s my favorite nut.  The DMMs are heavier than the WCs. 

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. It’s a lost craft.

Support the original. Support the legacy. Honor the inventor.

Mal

dindolino32 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

DMM because BD just got into the offset nuts game to just take a slice of the market but just added a biner to undercut the price.  BD hasn't really come up with any innovation for years, I bet they just go to the same factory that makes nuts and slap their logo on them.  I do like the Camalots larger than#1 though

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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