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Scarpa Phantom Tech vs Phantom 6000 - Warmth?

Original Post
Dave Dillon · · Tewksbury · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 180

Hey Gang, I've been climbing ice in the North East for 3 seasons. All of this time I've been wearing the last generation of the Scarpa Phantom 6000. These boots have treated me well and I've never had cold feet even during brutal days in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington. Lately I've been trying to climb harder and I feel like my 6000's are rather clunky in delicate situations. They've also been hurting my Plantar Fascia during the approach which is kind of a new issue (I'm a trail runner in the warmer months so my feet are pretty jacked up).

Anyways, I've been eyeballing the new Scarpa Phantom Tech as a replacement OR to compliment my 6000's. They appear to tick all the boxes but I have two concerns. Durability and warmth. I'm going to assume they climb better than my 6000's but how warm are they at the belay? Typical 1.5 boot warmth like the Batura, Arcteryx AR, G5, Phantom Guide, etc...? I'd love for this to be a "One boot for all" solution but I'm wondering if they can hack it in sub zero temperatures while standing at the belay.

Any input is appreciated! I'd love to hear from some Phantom Tech Owners.

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

I have both. Techs are about as warm as other 1.5 boots (I've had Baturas and Acrux, the latter is technically a double boot but warmth wise more comparable to a supergaiter boot) and they feel a bit more nimble while climbing than the 6000. I wear the Techs most of time. 

Personally ​I'd bring the 6000s if I was going climbing in low single digits and certainly subzero. Also multi day trips (ie Katahdin). Some people do ok with less boot. My advice would be to keep the 6000s around initially while you test out the Techs. Maybe you'll find you don't really need them. 

The durability complaints are mostly related to that flexible orange stuff on the sole. In the Northeast you're mostly approaching on snow or wearing crampons so not a huge issue IMO.

Edit: I have the newer 6000 with Baruntse liners, to be totally clear

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

 I feel the Techs aren’t as warm other singles with a gaiter. There’s a fine line of temps, low teens or singles if we’re moving all day, I’ll wear my Techs out in. The Phantom Techs do perform amazing on hard climbs. Much more nimble than the 6000s. That said I’ve climbed some hard WI on them and been happy. I would only choose to freeze my feet and wear Techs over 6000s if the climb was scrappy. Well then again, I was taught it’s best to stick to lower angle when it’s cold out

 Jde, we sure do disagree on boots! Haha..

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Not a major disagreement this time :-) I said I'd leave the Techs at home in lower single digits ie <5F. For you sounds like 10F? I'd definitely throw in some toe warmers in single digits.

Dave Dillon · · Tewksbury · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 180

Thanks Bro's that's kind of what I assumed. I might roll the dice on a pair as I can't really find any other options that would likely fit my monkey feet.

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Best place to get them is The Mountaineer. Chuck knows what's up and he'll help you with fit. I've bought boots at IME and OGE as well, the experience in Keene Valley is superlative. Plus you're like 5min from basically roadside ice at Chapel Pond. 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

My question is what are you climbing? I have the full Scarpa lineup and can climb WI5 in all of them but the 8000m. I have not tried as they are not the right boot anyways (though I did use them on the Cassin but that is only AI4 at best). That said in general I use my Phantom Techs probably more often than not when ice climbing. But mostly in moderate temps. I would look at the Phantom Techs as a compliment to the P6000. One can not have too many boots in the closet (Helps balance out my wife's shoe collect).

Zack Robinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

I agree with everything that has been said here.  I have both as well.  The Techs are my favorite mountaineering boot I've ever had.  They are warm relative to their intended purpose, and they are incredibly low-volume and nimble.  They fit me great, but that isn't too relevant to you.  I do think you can climb harder in the Techs than the 6000s, but the 6000s are also a very capable boot (as you know).  The Techs have a wide range of uses for me outside of ice climbing as well, such as snow climbs and mountaineering.  I wouldn't hesitate to take the Techs to Rainier, for instance.  The only reservation I have with them is their durability on rock.  I have a pair of Vasque M-Possibles that I will wear if I think I will be doing a lot of scrambling on the approach to snow climbs.

I'm with Allen on this one: it really is nice to have both.

jdejace: I'm sending you a DM regarding how you like the Baruntse liners.

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

I currently own Phantom Techs & have owned the previous 6000 version.  My first pair of climbing boots were the 6000s & I climbed in the Adirondacks for three seasons in them before switching to singles.  I chose doubles for the first few seasons because my feet get cold pretty easily.  Just like you, and from feedback from the guys I climb with, I chose to switch to singles when the Phantom Techs were released.  They're a fantastic boot & fit me very well.

Obviously, they're not double boot warm during the polar vortex weather we have here in the northeast, but I find them decently warm at 15º or warmer.  I tend to wear doubles below 10º.  I find if I keep the laces on my Phantom Techs looser, my feet stay warmer.  The more unobstructed blood flow, the warmer your toes will stay.  I couldn't be happier with the Phantom Techs, although, I'd love to try on a pair of G5's just for reference.

You could always try a vapor barrier with single boots.  The VBL will protect your sock from absorbing foot moisture.  A dry sock all day will keep your feet a lot warmer, but VBL isn't for everyone.  I, too, agree with everyone else and recommend keeping your 6000s & owning both singes & doubles.  Jdejace nailed it - stop by The Mountaineer, it's a great shop.  They carry most of Scarpa's & La Sportiva's lines.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

I have found these (link) to add a solid 10 F to my single leather boots.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116249337/mountain-tools-super-gaiters

Mike K · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

Multi-day trip in the Cascades - Tech or 6000?

Edit: just realized this was in the ice climbing forum, sorry!

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
Mike K wrote: Multi-day trip in the Cascades - Tech or 6000?

Edit: just realized this was in the ice climbing forum, sorry!

What time of year?? Spring through May, 6000, June and onward Techs.

Zack Robinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0
Allen Sanderson wrote:

What time of year?? Spring through May, 6000, June and onward Techs.

^^^^^^

I agree with this

Bryan LaRue · · Munising, MI · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 50

I instruct ice climbing in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. I have the Techs and they are good for me in most temps for personal climbing (moving efficiently all day, even when it drops below -10 F), but when guiding most days I am looking for something warmer like the 6000. I put insulating insoles in my boots and on the really cold days make sure I throw toe warmers in and keep the lacing pretty loose. It isn't ideal for climbing but while guiding I am mostly belaying the whole day. Id keep both boots if I were you. Wear on the orange part under the foot hasnt been a issue for me. But wear under the toes is starting to show. Ive had my pair of boots for 3 seasons now and have hiked with them on a fair amount of dirt. Scarpa is re-upping the whole phantom line for next year so you might be able to pick up a pair of phantoms this summer or fall for a reasonable price.

Kyle Turgeon · · Rosendale, NY · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote: I have found these (link) to add a solid 10 F to my single leather boots.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116249337/mountain-tools-super-gaiters

hey mike, what was this link to? i’m cruising old threads looking for boot info and would love to know!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
Kyle Turgeon wrote:

hey mike, what was this link to? i’m cruising old threads looking for boot info and would love to know!

I still have - and am happy to sell - my never-used second pair of these (link) supergaiters.

Supergaiters

Kyle Turgeon · · Rosendale, NY · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote:

I still have - and am happy to sell - my never-used second pair of these (link) supergaiters.

Supergaiters

interesting! DM'ed

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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