Scarpa Phantom Tech vs Phantom 6000 - Warmth?
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Hey Gang, I've been climbing ice in the North East for 3 seasons. All of this time I've been wearing the last generation of the Scarpa Phantom 6000. These boots have treated me well and I've never had cold feet even during brutal days in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington. Lately I've been trying to climb harder and I feel like my 6000's are rather clunky in delicate situations. They've also been hurting my Plantar Fascia during the approach which is kind of a new issue (I'm a trail runner in the warmer months so my feet are pretty jacked up). |
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I have both. Techs are about as warm as other 1.5 boots (I've had Baturas and Acrux, the latter is technically a double boot but warmth wise more comparable to a supergaiter boot) and they feel a bit more nimble while climbing than the 6000. I wear the Techs most of time. |
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I feel the Techs aren’t as warm other singles with a gaiter. There’s a fine line of temps, low teens or singles if we’re moving all day, I’ll wear my Techs out in. The Phantom Techs do perform amazing on hard climbs. Much more nimble than the 6000s. That said I’ve climbed some hard WI on them and been happy. I would only choose to freeze my feet and wear Techs over 6000s if the climb was scrappy. Well then again, I was taught it’s best to stick to lower angle when it’s cold out |
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Not a major disagreement this time :-) I said I'd leave the Techs at home in lower single digits ie <5F. For you sounds like 10F? I'd definitely throw in some toe warmers in single digits. |
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Thanks Bro's that's kind of what I assumed. I might roll the dice on a pair as I can't really find any other options that would likely fit my monkey feet. |
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Best place to get them is The Mountaineer. Chuck knows what's up and he'll help you with fit. I've bought boots at IME and OGE as well, the experience in Keene Valley is superlative. Plus you're like 5min from basically roadside ice at Chapel Pond. |
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My question is what are you climbing? I have the full Scarpa lineup and can climb WI5 in all of them but the 8000m. I have not tried as they are not the right boot anyways (though I did use them on the Cassin but that is only AI4 at best). That said in general I use my Phantom Techs probably more often than not when ice climbing. But mostly in moderate temps. I would look at the Phantom Techs as a compliment to the P6000. One can not have too many boots in the closet (Helps balance out my wife's shoe collect). |
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I agree with everything that has been said here. I have both as well. The Techs are my favorite mountaineering boot I've ever had. They are warm relative to their intended purpose, and they are incredibly low-volume and nimble. They fit me great, but that isn't too relevant to you. I do think you can climb harder in the Techs than the 6000s, but the 6000s are also a very capable boot (as you know). The Techs have a wide range of uses for me outside of ice climbing as well, such as snow climbs and mountaineering. I wouldn't hesitate to take the Techs to Rainier, for instance. The only reservation I have with them is their durability on rock. I have a pair of Vasque M-Possibles that I will wear if I think I will be doing a lot of scrambling on the approach to snow climbs. |
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I currently own Phantom Techs & have owned the previous 6000 version. My first pair of climbing boots were the 6000s & I climbed in the Adirondacks for three seasons in them before switching to singles. I chose doubles for the first few seasons because my feet get cold pretty easily. Just like you, and from feedback from the guys I climb with, I chose to switch to singles when the Phantom Techs were released. They're a fantastic boot & fit me very well. |
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I have found these (link) to add a solid 10 F to my single leather boots. |
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Multi-day trip in the Cascades - Tech or 6000? |
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Mike K wrote: Multi-day trip in the Cascades - Tech or 6000? What time of year?? Spring through May, 6000, June and onward Techs. |
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Allen Sanderson wrote: ^^^^^^ I agree with this |
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I instruct ice climbing in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. I have the Techs and they are good for me in most temps for personal climbing (moving efficiently all day, even when it drops below -10 F), but when guiding most days I am looking for something warmer like the 6000. I put insulating insoles in my boots and on the really cold days make sure I throw toe warmers in and keep the lacing pretty loose. It isn't ideal for climbing but while guiding I am mostly belaying the whole day. Id keep both boots if I were you. Wear on the orange part under the foot hasnt been a issue for me. But wear under the toes is starting to show. Ive had my pair of boots for 3 seasons now and have hiked with them on a fair amount of dirt. Scarpa is re-upping the whole phantom line for next year so you might be able to pick up a pair of phantoms this summer or fall for a reasonable price. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: I have found these (link) to add a solid 10 F to my single leather boots. hey mike, what was this link to? i’m cruising old threads looking for boot info and would love to know! |
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Kyle Turgeon wrote: I still have - and am happy to sell - my never-used second pair of these (link) supergaiters. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: interesting! DM'ed |