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Shoes similar to Miura VS?

Original Post
feifei J · · Salt Lake City · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

Hi friends, I am looking for a new pair of shoes that are similar to Miura VS yellow. I am a girl, but the yellow pair seems to fit me better than the blue pair. I mostly sport climb, also slowly getting back to bouldering (recovering from an ankle injury). Not looking for something super aggressive/painful - I've had my share of solutions! 

I have been wearing Miuras for over a year and absolutely love them. I've resoled them once, and now they need another resole, which is why I am looking to get another pair of similar shoes when I don't have them with me so I can avoid climbing steep routes in TC pros...

Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!

-feifei 

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 984

If you love Miura Vs, then why not buy a second pair and alternate between them during resoles?

feifei J · · Salt Lake City · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5
Mark E Dixon wrote: If you love Miura Vs, then why not buy a second pair and alternate between them during resoles?

good question... I am willing to try something new. If I don't end up finding a good pair I will get another Miura

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

They are a pretty unique shoe.  You don’t usually get such an aggressive shape with a stiff edging platform.  That said...

Scarpa Instinct VS - similar aggressiveness, but a tough softer/more flexible due to split sole.  Not as insane edging, but better for steeps.

LS Katana Lace - more comfortable, slightly less aggressive but otherwise the closest thing to a lace-up Miura VS (more so than the actual Miura Lace)

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

I personally adore the miura vs, best heel on the market, accurate toe and the best edging shoe on the market.
Why would you want anything else? You don't need to buy different for the sake of buying different, the miuras are the best at what they do of any shoe on the market.

Nkane 1 · · East Bay, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 465

Scarpa Instinct VS? Both are moderately downturned and stiff.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

I moved to the Miura VS from the Scarpa Vapor V. Both seems pretty similar to me, although the Vapor V had more rubber on the toe and one less velcro strap. I'm sticking with the Miura VS though, as they seem to take one more resole than the Vapor V. Good closeout deals on the last model, before the new version comes out of the Vapor V though, if you shop around.

AndyMac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 1,133

Why get something that's basically the same? It would be like owning 2 different tools that do exactly the same thing.
I almost exclusively use the miura VS but want a shoe that is better for toe hooking and has a narrower heel. I'm calling BS Seb, the heel is fairly large and imprecise.

I personally have about 3 pairs of miuras so I can resole 2 pairs while I wear the 3rd.

I also have the blue and yellow versions and think they are 100% identical.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
AndyMac wrote: Why get something that's basically the same? It would be like owning 2 different tools that do exactly the same thing.
Agreed.
I almost exclusively use the miura VS but want a shoe that is better for toe hooking and has a narrower heel. I'm calling BS Seb, the heel is fairly large and imprecise.
How dare you that's blasphemy, the miura vs is sensitive, precise and fits me like a second skin, it's a work of art. The only thing a miura vs can't do is crack climb and toe hook.
I personally have about 3 pairs of miuras so I can resole 2 pairs while I wear the 3rd.

I also have the blue and yellow versions and think they are 100% identical.

They should be pretty much exactly the same the only difference is the xs grip 2 as far as i'm aware.

Sergio Arias · · Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

My personal vote is going to be the la sportiva katana lace. Moderate downturn and they edge so well. 

Christian Prellwitz · · Telluride, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 3,839

If you're looking for a shoe that's pretty similar to the Miura VS, I would suggest the Scarpa Boostic. Many of Scarpa's shoes are basically improved versions of La Sportiva shoes since the same guy designed all of them. I wore the Miura VS for a long time and then switched to the Boostic and I like them way better. They have a great heal, superior edging ability and way more toe rubber, which has been crucial for me on a number of super techy toehooks and heel/toe cams. I've climbed v10 and mid 5.13 in them and they are my go to shoe for most days.

rkrum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 61

Scarpa boostic is the only shoe that can compete with your mirua vs when it comes to edging power. I love mine. Sized correctly, one pair of shoes is capable of everything from crack climbing to 5.12 vert face.

Edit: ^^^What he said 

Joshua Pummel · · Bozeman · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 25
Sergio Arias wrote: My personal vote is going to be the la sportiva katana lace. Moderate downturn and they edge so well. 

I agree with Sergio, the La Sportiva Katana lace are a really good all around shoe that you can use on just about everything.  In addition, I know multiple females that recommend this shoe. I normally don't comment on forum posts, but I have just been so happy with the couple of pairs of Katanas that I have owned over the years that I couldn't resist. 

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
AndyMac wrote: 
I almost exclusively use the miura VS but want a shoe that is better for toe hooking and has a narrower heel.

Have you tried Evolv Shamans?   The toe is almost like cheating.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
that guy named seb wrote: Agreed.
How dare you that's blasphemy, the miura vs is sensitive, precise and fits me like a second skin, it's a work of art. The only thing a miura vs can't do is crack climb and toe hook.

They should be pretty much exactly the same the only difference is the xs grip 2 as far as i'm aware.

The Miura VS is about as sensitive as a cement block.  I absolutely hate climbing anything steep in them.  However, they do decently in finger cracks.

Also, though technically not on the market anymore, the Anasazi Blanco out-edges Miuras.
Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55

BD Focus is a similar shoe. Not as asymmetric, but plenty stuff and pointy at the toe.

Zachary Winters · · Winthrop, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 435

Instinct Lace could be worth a try. Kind of like a more aggressive Katana Lace. More on par with the stiffness of Muira VS than Instinct VS. Really good. 

Wes Farrar · · DENVER, COLORADO · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 40

Boreal satori. Similar fit, not as stiff.  I switched to these because the toe on my muira would always seem to wear out too fast (split).  

rkrum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 61

Oh maybe check out the fiveten verdon too. The front half of that shoe makes the boostic and miura vs look feel like house slippers.

Scarpa instinct - unless something has been dramatically changed, imo it falls waayyyy short of miura vs, boostic, verdon etc edging power if that's what you're after.

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

The blue and yellow Miura VS are definitely different at least in my size (43, sadly the blue is no longer available in 42.5 or 43). The overall construction is significantly softer, the heel band isn't as high or as tight, and the forefoot is a touch wider.

If you want a shoe that can toe hook but isn't as painful as the Solution, try the Skwama.

Vaughn · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 55

Check out the La Sportiva Otaki, it has replaced my miura VS

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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