Mountain Project Logo

Softshell pants for Rainier and beyond — Jottnar, Arcteryx, Norrona, OR ..?

Original Post
Sangye Ince-Johannsen · · Ashland, OR · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

I'm planning for Rainier this year, and what's lacking from my kit is a solid pair of softshell pants. The only requirements are that it be available in 34" inseam, suitable for climbs like Rainier and Orizaba in inclement weather, and ideally useful also on Denali for when that dream is realized.

I tend to run cold, so I'm inclined to pick something that adds some insulation value — Arcteryx Gamma MX looks interesting, but also might not be as

After some research, I'm intrigued by the Jottnar Vanir LT pants. I'm also looking at the Norrona Falketind Flex1, and OR Cirque (but I'm not sure if this is available in long sizes).

Are there other good options I'm missing?

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Anything should do for Rainier in summer so I wouldn't agonize too much in the immediate term. Get a plain uninsulated softshell pant on sale. Gamma LT would be perfectly fine if you like Arc. 

For cold weather IMO you won't do better than a set of salopettes. These are good and made in the US, though I'm sure Jottnar doesn't suck. I prefer the fleece vest top to suspenders personally.

https://www.nwalpine.com/products/neoshell-salopette?variant=44094879301

In either case adjust base +/- mid layer bottoms for warmth. More versatile that way. It's pretty toasty on those PNW glaciers in the summer, at least for those of us who live in a cold place.

David Maver · · Philadelphia PA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

I am also going to pitch the Gamma LT. I've done Rainier via the DC and Liberty Ridge Routes and although I didn't have the Gamma LT pant then, they would work great. If you're a little cold, you can easily slip a base layer under them.

I cannot comment on pants for Denali, but if it's down the road, your research into that climb may point you in a better direction than planning for Rainier.

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255
Psiphon AR have served me very well.  Nice and trim at the lower legs = minimal crampon snags.  Actually, no snags for me in these pants. First time ever.  They're the best softshell pants I've ever worn because they fit me like a dream.  Wait for one of the websites to offer "20% off one full-price item" for a better bang for your buck.
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

I'm with alpine ice on the Psiphon AR served me very well in the alps this summer, I have decided against arcteryx though for the future as i just cant justify the price vs durability, it's just not worth it as i'm always trashing the zips. They did really well high up with a ultra lite merino baselayer as well.

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 416

Have a look at the Mammut Base Jump pants. They're available with long inseams, and they're made from a Schoeller fabric that's much more water-resistant than most softshells, but still breathable and stretchy. I've got a pair of their predecessors (the Mammut Trion, now discontinued) and they're my go-to pants for big, snowy mountains. I used them every day when we climbed Mt Logan (the one in the Yukon). On summit day I wore them on top of a fleece mid-layer and long johns. Like you I run cold, but they worked fine.

Other softshells available with long inseams include the Arcteryx Gamma AR and LT (but not the Psiphon AR), Mountain Hardware Super Chockstone (might be discontinued?) and Mountain Equipment Ibex. However, with all of those you might need to carry a hardshell outer layer in case of prolonged bad weather.

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

to the people that have used the psiphon ar-- can you comment on the pros/cons of this pant compared to the gamma mx? 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
mpech wrote: to the people that have used the psiphon ar-- can you comment on the pros/cons of this pant compared to the gamma mx? 

The gamma MX is more insulating with a proper brushed backer has a less refined belt (i really like the hook system on the psiphon) and i believe it's cut looser overall. Over all it's a less versatile piece as there is no way you would wear them in the summer you would boil alive where as the psiphon ar's are still breathable enough for summer stuff. I have done a valley start in my psiphons at like 30 degrees(c), it wasn't fun but it wasn't the worst thing in the world.

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
that guy named seb wrote:

The gamma MX is more insulating with a proper brushed backer has a less refined belt (i really like the hook system on the psiphon) and i believe it's cut looser overall. Over all it's a less versatile piece as there is no way you would wear them in the summer you would boil alive where as the psiphon ar's are still breathable enough for summer stuff. I have done a valley start in my psiphons at like 30 degrees(c), it wasn't fun but it wasn't the worst thing in the world.

thanks. It sounds like its better to get get a non-insulated softshell and wear long underwear underneath, rather than getting an insulated softshell pant. . 

Do you have a sense if the two pants differ at all in water or wind resistance?

(these pants are for patagonia climbing, to give you a sense of what i'm looking for). 
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
mpech wrote:

thanks. It sounds like its better to get get a non-insulated softshell and wear long underwear underneath, rather than getting an insulated softshell pant. . 

Do you have a sense if the two pants differ at all in water or wind resistance?
I have found the psiphon's burly fabric far superior to blocking wind than that of the Fortius fabric while the gamma mx is fortius 2.0 from what i can tell it's just a slightly heavier weight fortius fabric with a knit backer. As far a water resistance goes both will be a sponge without a dwr and the dwr's effectiveness will come down to how new the germent is, it's really that simple, the gamma mx would dry quicker though.
(these pants are for patagonia climbing, to give you a sense of what i'm looking for). 

Patagonia is probably the one place where I might consider using arc'teryx's alpha comp pant or if money is not an issue i'd wear salopettes, woven and knit softshells really just don't provide the same protection that a membrane does though are of course allot less durable.

Jordan Whitley · · NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 240

you would be burning up in a pair of gamma mx's on Rainier in the summer time, those are extremely warm pants. I have used the Gamma LTs on Rainier a few times and they are a perfect pant for that type of climbing and above. Just adjust your base layer accordingly. 

Mtn Ape XL · · Utah · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 131
Jordan W wrote: you would be burning up in a pair of gamma mx's on Rainier in the summer time, those are extremely warm pants. I have used the Gamma LTs on Rainier a few times and they are a perfect pant for that type of climbing and above. Just adjust your base layer accordingly. 

+1 for this

Greg Miller · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

Have worn Psiphon AR's up and over Rainier in mid-July, would recommend. Also going to be wearing them again this summer on Rainier, and hopefully on Denali in 2020. Love the cut of the pants, the weather resistance, all of it. Just wish they weren't so freakin' expensive.

jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

I have worn  my OR Cirque pants on summer Rainier trips, and they were great both times.  I bring running shorts to wear on the approach (and potentially change into on the way down).

My favorite feature is grommets for making a bungee cord loop around the bottom of the boot and then dispensing with gaiters entirely; this works best when combined with their accessory suspenders (and a tall boot like a Nepal).   This system doubles as my “winter” pant setup for everything else in the Cascades.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Softshell pants for Rainier and beyond — Jottna…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.