Theoulienne Method

Emergency midline attachable rappel method for when you drop all your rappel devices. Excerpts from Manuel Tehcnique de Descente de Canyon and Knots at Work (don't remember what I did with my translation  ).

I've done short rappels with the Valdotain Tresse on just the knot using Donaghys Armor Prus 8mm cord (ANSI Z 133 arborist grade eye & eye hitch cord, 30 in.). Very high performance closed friction hitch, but you have to be careful tying it.

8mm Armor prus is the best! I was bummed to have blown through mine recently, and had to switch to epicord. 

However- rapping on just a friction hitch is not considered best practice in arboriculture. You still need a heat/friction sink above your hitch- this is also why you always tie your friction hitch below your atc in a rapling situation.

Most of us climbing on stationary systems (in trees) are using a wrope wrench, hitch hiker or other such heat sink device in conjunction with a hitch. Without one, even on short descents, the hitch is prone to binding terribly. In a ddrt system, where the rope is running around a limb or through a friction saver, that upper suspension point is acting as a heat sink. And while hitch cords have very high melting points, it is very easy to glaze them while using them on their own, making them hard to tie and use. 

And eye to eyes are of limited utility outside of these hitches, and eat up space on your harness. It’s faster and easier to rap on a munter (also midline attachable) especially on short rapells. 

Were I to need to rap with a friction hitch, I would do it on a Blake’s hitch tied with the tail of the rope, creating a closed system- mega old school points, with no extra gear. 

All that being said, arborists have quite a number of fascinating friction hitches most rock climbers are unaware of, and I like that this post exists. I personally use a michocan at work, as it’s more compact than a VT.  

Why not just use a Munter hitch?  A lot simpler.  Is it because it is "mid-line"? In which case how did you half way down to drop your rappel device in the first place withoit being attached to the rope with a rappel device?

Conor Mark wrote: 8mm Armor prus is the best! I was bummed to have blown through mine recently, and had to switch to epicord.

However- rapping on just a friction hitch is not considered best practice in arboriculture. You still need a heat/friction sink above your hitch- this is also why you always tie your friction hitch below your atc in a rapling situation.

Most of us climbing on stationary systems (in trees) are using a wrope wrench, hitch hiker or other such heat sink device in conjunction with a hitch. Without one, even on short descents, the hitch is prone to binding terribly. In a ddrt system, where the rope is running around a limb or through a friction saver, that upper suspension point is acting as a heat sink. And while hitch cords have very high melting points, it is very easy to glaze them while using them on their own, making them hard to tie and use. 

And eye to eyes are of limited utility outside of these hitches, and eat up space on your harness. It’s faster and easier to rap on a munter (also midline attachable) especially on short rapells. 

Were I to need to rap with a friction hitch, I would do it on a Blake’s hitch tied with the tail of the rope, creating a closed system- mega old school points, with no extra gear. 

All that being said, arborists have quite a number of fascinating friction hitches most rock climbers are unaware of, and I like that this post exists. I personally use a michocan at work, as it’s more compact than a VT.  

I agree, although a Munter hitch can't be installed on a loaded rope. Michoacán on a 28 inch Armor Prus E2E is one of my go-to hitches! I really like Teufelberger's Ocean Poly 10mm as a split-tail for Blake's hitch. Yale Bee Line 8mm was my favorite for a while, but it grips a little too well at times. M5 ropes (polyhydroquinone-diimidazopyridine / PIPD) were supposed to be commercially available by now  .

I tried to pick up a length of Samson ProGen II Zylon (polybenzoxazole) cord in 3/16 in for trad anchors. Pretty incredible to have a 5mm cord with 5500 lbs breaking strength! But it was remarkably difficult to procure when I tried to find it a few months ago. 

I have yet to meet a rock climber familiar with anything other than than prusik / klemheist / autoblock. Your post gives me hope for the future  .

Yup, it is easier to maneuver on friction hitches in DdRT systems (or MRS to use the new terminology). I still prefer SRT.

I have a hitch hiker 2! It's an awesome little device, but heavy and takes a while to setup. I hear the first batch of Akimbo's is dropping in January! Would've preordered one if I hadn't just picked up a Taz Lov2. 

Brian wrote: Why not just use a Munter hitch?  A lot simpler.  Is it because it is "mid-line"? In which case how did you half way down to drop your rappel device in the first place withoit being attached to the rope with a rappel device?

Maybe your buddy was rappelling and got their figure 8 girth hitched halfway down the pitch with no hitch cord or ascenders to unload the device.

Michael M wrote:

Maybe your buddy was rappelling and got their figure 8 girth hitched halfway down the pitch with no hitch cord or ascenders to unload the device.

Wow that is a pretty unlikely scenerio.  How do you girth hitch a Figure 8?  And climbeers still use a Figure 8 for anything?  I have one from the 1980s I use as a paperweight. Should this be on CaversProject. com?

Brian wrote:

Wow that is a pretty unlikely scenerio.  How do you girth hitch a Figure 8?  And climbeers still use a Figure 8 for anything?  I have one from the 1980s I use as a paperweight. Should this be on CaversProject. com?

You can girth hitch a figure 8 if you install it with the rope looped up behind the device. Not a concern on a rescue figure 8 because the ears prevent it from becoming girth hitched. 

I know a few people who use figure 8 descenders. I used one for a while when I was starting out, but stopped because they twist the rope. Plus, an ATC is lighter and can also be used to belay. However, I use a titanium rappel rack for longer rappels. Kong Oka is a very popular descender among professional rescuers in Italy. 

I’ve been on a rope wrench for two years now, love it. Really only use drt with my lanyard anymore, can’t even tell you last time I used a blake’s hitch. Tried a prototype akimbo three years ago, pretty cool. However, my company still won’t allow mechanical hitches. Shame, the bulldog bone is awesome.

I guess you could tie a vt with a shoulder lenght sling in a pinch. I would also be tempted to tie a bachman knot to prevent the hitch seizing. 

Conor Mark wrote:  ..using a wrope wrench, 

So is this just an ascender, or can anyone explain a rope wrench in layman's terms?

It’s sort of an ascent/descent device. It’s non-life support, and without a hitch it won’t hold your weight. It helps share the load with the hitch, and acts as a heat sink by putting a 90 degree bend in the rope. 

Conor Mark wrote: ..and without a hitch it won’t hold your weight. It helps share the load with the hitch...

Thanks, that was the part that I was missing.

Between this and the Fancy Schmancy Anchor thread...

"and the award for overcomplication of the simplest of tasks goes to..." 

Sam Sala wrote: Between this and the Fancy Schmancy Anchor thread...

"and the award for overcomplication of the simplest of tasks goes to..." 

True. But, this is applying highly utilitarian techniques from a completly different disciple to rock climbing, a context in which they seem silly. 

i think this is what happened to the last guy who used the theoulieuwenee method.  go ahead and ff to 1:30.  hipsters with big beards may wanna take some notes....  :)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4q5aprqreSk

slim wrote: i think this is what happened to the last guy who used the theoulieuwenee method.  go ahead and ff to 1:30.  hipsters with big beards may wanna take some notes....  :)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4q5aprqreSk

Hardest I’ve laughed all day....thanks slim! 

slim wrote: i think this is what happened to the last guy who used the theoulieuwenee method.  go ahead and ff to 1:30.  hipsters with big beards may wanna take some notes....  :)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4q5aprqreSk

Would have been fine if it was a simul rap

Forgot about this video

Slim..... thanks for link! Funny as heck.

One should know how to rapell even if naked....

Conor Mark wrote: I’ve been on a rope wrench for two years now, love it. Really only use drt with my lanyard anymore, can’t even tell you last time I used a blake’s hitch. Tried a prototype akimbo three years ago, pretty cool. However, my company still won’t allow mechanical hitches. Shame, the bulldog bone is awesome.

I guess you could tie a vt with a shoulder lenght sling in a pinch. I would also be tempted to tie a bachman knot to prevent the hitch seizing. 

Rope wrenches and all srt climbing has been the ultimate tree climbing game changer for me over the last ten years of its development. I'm sure some big wall guys with a bunch of $$$ will buy an akimbo and find some awesome uses for it. ($300 mid line attachable ascender, descender, belay device by Rock Exotica designed for tree climbing rope work).

Also, yearly tree conference is in Knoxville of all places next year. I've never been out there but best place yet for some after conference rock time. Should get the international collection of tree climbing/rock climbers out for a day. 

Kesto Pesto wrote:

Rope wrenches and all srt climbing has been the ultimate tree climbing game changer for me over the last ten years of its development. I'm sure some big wall guys with a bunch of $$$ will buy an akimbo and find some awesome uses for it. ($300 mid line attachable ascender, descender, belay device by Rock Exotica designed for tree climbing rope work).

Also, yearly tree conference is in Knoxville of all places next year. I've never been out there but best place yet for some after conference rock time. Should get the international collection of tree climbing/rock climbers out for a day. 

Oh SRT is definitely a game changer! You can incorporate a basal anchor aerial rescue system, don't have to isolate primary suspension point, 1:1 energy exchange, option to use canopy anchor, can pass the rope over multiple branch unions to spread the climber’s weight, more ergonomic, less wear and tear on the rope, etc.   

I wish I could make it out for the ISA conference - maybe I'll find a way! Been waiting for the akimbo for a while now, and while I really want one, they haven't published the full specs or acquired CE certification yet as far as I'm aware.

I wonder about the utility of incorporating a lowerable system in a basal anchor.  Circumstances would need to be perfect to be lowered- laynard off, clear path to the ground, not over structures or electric lines, ect. Plus extra gear/set up time. In the rare occurance I’m working from, and not just ascending on a basal anchor, I’ll tie a butterfly in the running end just above my running bowline for a rescue line to be clipped on. 

Ironiclly, Jamie Merritt, inventor of the Akimbo, works for Davey Tree and there’s no way they’ll ever allow it on job sites. 

The basal anchor hasn't really done it for me (but the butterfly for rescue is a good idea for accidents on the ascent). Overall the base anchor is more trouble than it's worth. Everything else, oh yeah! I have a feeling the CE will go through, it is just another test that takes time. The main idea is that this tool would be fully certified and comp/work ready. I've been working and climbing on a proto-akimbo for the a last three years or so. Ironically, now that the real one has finally come out, I rarely even climb any more at work, so I guess I have no need for one besides a fun climb.