Time to stockpile Testarossa's

La Sportiva are "updating" the design of the classic Testarossa and are fucking with the heel and ramping up the price to an eye watering $199.

Maybe i'll finally get some when the old stock goes cheap.

I've already stashed a brand new pair in case I hate the new ones. Might need to stash another one. "Wider heel" are not the words I want to hear about my favorite shoe...

Anonymous wrote: Why would one not go with the Genius for that price?

No edge blows apart on granite and can't edge as well, No edge is kind of a master smedger it can just stick to features like nothing else can but when you have sharp tiny edges it just doesn't perform like a edged shoe does, if you have any no edged shoes just go and stand on a small (6mm or smaller) angular edge in the gym and then stand on the same hold with a shoe with and edge you will immediately notice a huge difference.

These are a huge upgrade, sorry dude. The only weakness of the heel has been solved. I've had cases where the heel and pressure is right on the lorica and not the tiny piece of rubber.  I wish they had gone with a bigger toepatch. Otherwise I can't see the shoe climbing any differently.

I asked a LS Pro about these. He said they fit and feel exactly the same. Don't make a big deal out of nothing. There is no conspiracy here.

Karl Walters wrote: These are a huge upgrade, sorry dude. The only weakness of the heel has been solved. I've had cases where the heel and pressure is right on the lorica and not the tiny piece of rubber.  I wish they had gone with a bigger toepatch. Otherwise I can't see the shoe climbing any differently.

I asked a LS Pro about these. He said they fit and feel exactly the same. Don't make a big deal out of nothing. There is no conspiracy here.

I Don't have any Testarossa's my self but from what I have heard the biggest appeal with the Testarossa's heel was how soft it was, they have now changed the heel into a stiff chunk of rubber. Lots of toe rubber is pointless they're not a bouldering shoe they simply wouldn't benefit from it just how they don't benefit from a heel covered in rubber. They're more like a highly adjustable different fitting Miura vs than a lace up solution.

Well, I have two pair for sale. One with a brand new, never used resole for $80 and the second pair at $40 with some use. Size 40.5. Buyer pays shipping. 

that guy named seb wrote:

I Don't have any Testarossa's my self but from what I have heard the biggest appeal with the Testarossa's heel was how soft it was

You started a whole thread bemoaning a design change to a shoe you don’t even have?  Also, anecdotally, the only comments I’ve ever heard pertaining to the Testarossa heel from my friends who use them have been universally negative.

Mark Paulson wrote:

You started a whole thread bemoaning a design change to a shoe you don’t even have?  Also, anecdotally, the only comments I’ve ever heard pertaining to the Testarossa heel from my friends who use them have been universally negative.

I started the thread saying they're fucking with a classic design, I even said i don't have them in the initial post, learn to read. The heel isn't a bad heel it's just a specific heel some people it fits well some people it doesn't I have heard plenty of people like the heel of the Testarossa's and geniuses (same heel).

Cool man, I don't actually own this shoe either nor have I ever used it but oh no! It's going to be different and IT'S THE END OF THE WORLD!!!11

Time to stop using apostrophes for plurals.

rkrum wrote: Cool man, I don't actually own this shoe either nor have I ever used it but oh no! It's going to be different and IT'S THE END OF THE WORLD!!!11

As a result of this thread I am now stupider!

Thanks MP!

Another classic tome filled with insights and expertise, questions and concerns from those with no experience with the gear involved whatsoever.

"I know a guy who knows a guy that liked the heel for the hook on Apricot Dome (Direct, you punters!) except on tuesdays when he feel's fat after too much schnitzel gruben in the beer garden on Lady's Night."

Much Content. Much Wow.

Merry Christmas!

Anonymous wrote: Why would one not go with the Genius for that price?

Because they aren't the same last nor precisely the same style of shoe ie a Testarossa is higher volume than a Genius.

La Sportiva has a huge lineup of shoes because they have a variety of lasts, soles, midsoles etc throughout the range so there is never going to be one best La Sportiva for everyone for every style of climbing.

that guy named seb wrote:

I Don't have any Testarossa's my self but from what I have heard the biggest appeal with the Testarossa's heel was how soft it was, they have now changed the heel into a stiff chunk of rubber. Lots of toe rubber is pointless they're not a bouldering shoe they simply wouldn't benefit from it just how they don't benefit from a heel covered in rubber. They're more like a highly adjustable different fitting Miura vs than a lace up solution.

The heel softness doesn't really matter, it's the way it holds it's shape. For me that soft part ends up slightly stretching and creasing.

They're a great bouldering shoe. I know about a half dozen people who use ONLY them for bouldering and prob a dozen who take them out for certain types of problems. If there are no super strenuous technical toe hooks there is nothing that they do not do extremely well that is unique to bouldering. Also, lots of sport climbs have heel hooks and heel hook rests.

Anonymous wrote:

Thanks HB. I realize it's a very different shoe. 

My comment was a lazy way of questioning the increase in price, now that they're more than the Genius, which was one of the most expensive shoes on the market (although I think it's been surpassed by other brands/models now.) I should have been more clear.

Anyway, I am curious to try both shoes. As you know, I like a soft shoe for smearing but, I do need to learn how to take advantage of shoes that edge well and get better at edging just in general.

Your foot volumne is so low you aren't going to do better than Tenaya's for any sort of face climbing.

If anyone on this thread is still looking for old Testarossas (size 41), I'm selling some. See link below.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/117521465/fs-testarossa-size-41

I just picked up a pair of the old ones cheap from that Alpenglow sale. I wish I had purchased them before, fits great everywhere but toebox better suited to my foot than the Genius. Heel better fit also. Seems a bit stiffer than the Genius also, but maybe they soften as they break in. Too bad the sizing is not the same on the new model, these seem to fit perfect ( 41, my SS size 10 ).