Moving: Portland, Reno, or Seattle?

Hello climbing friends,

I am looking at changing jobs and leaving the Fresno area. As you can imagine, a major concern is access to good climbing. Fresno is wonderfully located, as I can access great climbing areas year-round if I am willing to drive ~3 hours. I am a little afraid that I'm spoiled and will be terribly sad wherever I move, so looking to at least manage my expectations for the different areas I'm looking at.

My current potential areas are:
-Seattle
-Portland
and
-Reno

Can do research via other sources for stuff like cost of living, stuff to do, traffic, etc. But I really want to get my hands wrapped around what the climbing is like in those areas and could really use your experiences, especially if you have perspective on more than just one location and can help compare/contrast. I am not a super great climber, so the more easy/moderate routes, the better (5.easy - 5.10a/b).

What research has shown up so far is that Reno has convenient access to a wealth of climbing, AND good weather. Seattle and Portland appear to have access to DECENT climbing, but weather that can often be prohibitive, but I'm interested in your experience and insight on how true any of that really is...

Are you strictly rock climbing or is mountaineering, alpine climbing, and/or mixed climbing in your bag?

I can't speak to Reno but if any of the above are in your interests it would be hard to find a better place than Portland or Seattle for some of the best objectives in the lower 48.

Portland may offer the best of both worlds between Seattle and Portland due to the proximity to Smith and a few other drier locations in the winter.

Seems like you've already done your research on Reno but here's my take. Donner Summit and the greater I-80 corridor crags are 30-1hr drive (trad/sport/boulder). Day trips to the Leap and South Lake Crags are easy. Weekends, you have access to the Eastern Sierra and Yosemite. Mesa Rim is probably the best climbing gym in the area. In winter there is potential at Sugarloaf, Woodfords, Auburn Quarry (meh), and a few other smaller crags (Pigeon Cliffs in Susanville) for day trips and potentially Eastern Sierra depending on the weather of course.

It is getting more expensive here but I'm guessing that it's still cheaper than PDX and Seattle. Reno is a similar sized city to Fresno so there's that too. If you're at all adverse to long gray, wet winters then the PNW isn't for you.

Reno

If you're concerned about traffic, cost of living, and weather then you should just cross off Portland and Seattle

Thanks all for the info. To answer questions above:

-Strictly looking for rock climbing.

-Looking to consider climbing quality ONLY (partly to make discussion simpler, but job opportunities for me and my wife in each location almost balance out cost of living and commute considerations).

If you are not a skier or mountaineer I would go for Reno. The PNW winters can wear on you if you don't ski.

There is a lot of good rock climbing in Washington, but you will have to drive to do it. Nothing more than you are used to. Index is 1hr45min, Leavenworth and Darrington are about 2 hours, and plenty of cascade objectives within 2-3 hours. Washington pass and squamish are both about 4 hours away. The only place really doable for after work or quick day trips is exit 32/38, which has OK sport climbing. I moved away from the PNW to be closer to year-round climbing and more sun.  

Portland has smith rock and some other smaller spots, but I think the access is better from Seattle, in my opinion at least.

I’ve only lived in Portland, BUT I think it is a great climbing city. Three crags each with jug hauls, easy trad, hard cracks, and fun sport all within 30 min drive (Rocky Butte is 15 min from my house, broughtons, and carver cliff). Adventure climbing and scrambling? The gorge. Crack climbing? Beacon Rock, Trout Creek, Lower Creek at smith, wanker’s columns, Pete’s pile, all within a 3hr radius. Smith is obviously close too. Then there are the mountains. Ice cragging on hood, mixed scary stuff on Illumination, etc.. Portland is sick and there isn’t nearly as much rain as people think there is, and when there is there are lots of dry cliffs around and even within the city to keep you busy, as well as some really good gyms (PG, Circuit, PRG, Stone Works, MAC, etc.). 

Ashort wrote: If you are not a skier or mountaineer I would go for Reno. The PNW winters can wear on you if you don't ski.

Even if he is a skier Reno would still be high on the list, 8 resorts 30min-1-5hrs. Lots of backcountry and then Eastern Sierra and Shasta within 3-4hrs. 

The PNW is not a good place to be if you want to be rock climbing year round. Seattle is painfully rock-starved. Portland is a bit better, but the big dark drizzle is a real thing up here. Reno is a much better call if climbing is your focus.

Reno

I lived in Portland for decades. It's three hours to Smith and two to Hood.

Reno is 35 minutes to Donner Summit and a number of other crags.  Reno is 40 minutes to Squaw Valley.  You are a couple of hours to the east side of the sierra. This is a complete no brainer IMHO.

One more vote for Reno. Tons of good quality climbing locally and east weekend trips to Bishop or the Valley. Plus the weather is much more conducive to climbing year round. I lived in Portland for years and ended up moving to have better access to local rock. 

1. If you line up a decent job, reno is head and shoulders above seattle and portland.  I lived in reno 7 yrs, then moved to seattle for better job prospects for my wife and I.  Reno is great for an outdoors location, tough on careers though unless you deal cards or sling boxes in warehouses.  Living there is great though. 

EDIT: If you have kids and want them educated, move to seattle or portland.  NV basically battles mississippi for #50 educational system every year.  True.. 

Portland local, I'd say Reno for straight up rock climbing.  Portland has good access if you're willing to drive 2-5 hours for the good stuff (Smith, Trout, Leavenworth alpine rock).  Some good local crags with fun climbing but nothing to get overly excited about and the winter weather does put a damper on what we do have.  Seattle has amazing access to the mountains in general.  The alpine rock and Index are high up there in terms of quality but I think you run out of options a little quicker than Reno maybe (not positive about that).  Smith is good to go in the winter, but in Reno you probably don't have to drive 3 hours for that. Just my 2 cents.

Hey, thanks everyone for the great insight. This is really helpful.

It seems like the general consensus is that of the three options: Reno, Portland, Seattle, that Seattle is conclusively the worst, Reno is conclusively the best. Portland has enough climbing to keep one busy and happy, if they're willing to drive 2-5 hours depending on season, and possibly shut out altogether weather-dependent.

one thing to consider about moving to Portland...

you will never stop feeling utterly strange about the rule that other people have to pump your gas for you.
also the city has like zero infrastructure for snow/ice, so anytime an actual winter happens, the city is a clusterfuck.

"On average, there are 144 sunny days per year in Portland."  think about what that will mean for weather conditions.
 also, the further north you go... the less daylight you get.  
"the average sunrise after 7:40am and the sun gone by 4:30pm "
and Seattle will be even darker overall...  and then in the summer it's light out til almost 10pm which can also be mentally draining..

meanwhile in Reno... "Reno gets some kind of precipitation, on average, 23 days per year. On average, there are 252 sunny days per year in Reno. "..   climb on !

Beau Griffith wrote: Thanks all for the info. To answer questions above:

-Strictly looking for rock climbing.

-Looking to consider climbing quality ONLY (partly to make discussion simpler, but job opportunities for me and my wife in each location almost balance out cost of living and commute considerations).

Portland isn't that awesome for pure rock climbing.  What kind of jobs? Wenatchee may be a better fit for rock with easy access to Leavenworth and Index and WA Pass a 2.5 hour drive away.  

I'd rate it

#1 - Reno

#3 in a tie for last place, Seattle and Portland. It starts raining @ October (with a few good days) and proceeds to rain until the early summer. (with a few more good days tossed in). It can drive you nuts if the good weather day is when you are working and it rains all weekend. Maybe I'm laying it this way because it's been pouring for a while now in the Pacific Northwet. In previous years I'd just go skiing up on Hood, but now my leg is too gimpy for that and I'm watching the rain....I will say, if you wind up in a #3 ranked city, it's still better than a lot of other choices you could have picked. Rainy Seattle you can drive to Leavenworth with some fantastic granite and Rainy Portland theres Smith.

Chase G wrote: Reno

If you're concerned about traffic, cost of living, and weather then you should just cross off Portland and Seattle

second this. Portland traffic has gotten significantly worse in my short time here.

but then again, if you move to Reno, then you live in Reno 

You going to the burn, braw?

Menna Mourad wrote: but then again, if you move to Reno, then you live in Reno 

I get what you're saying but you could just as easily say "but then again, if you move to Portland, then you live in Portland."