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Red Rock Multipitches that have fully bolted pitches

Original Post
Spraynard Krueger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Okay.... Hate to spray out another Red Rocks Multipitch question, hopefully this one is more specific. I will be in Red Rock with my Sport Climber friend. I lead trad up to 12s but my friend is just a sport climber. He would love to climb some MultiPitch with me so what Im curious about is finding Multipitches that are primarily trad but have some fully bolted pitches so he could get some leads in.

Lemme know what, if anything,  comes to mind!

Cheers

nathanael · · San Diego · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

Levitation 29 (pitch 2,5,6,7 are bolted)

Edit: also I think some stuff on Black Velvet wall would qualify, haven't done them but I believe some fully bolted pitches on several of those routes 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Prince of Darkness.

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

Last 2 pitches of Sour Mash are fully bolted, 10a

Eagle Dance - I haven't done it but my understanding is that there are some fully bolted pitches

Noah Fox · · Bishop, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Unimpeachable groping is a 7 pitch sport clib

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,814

Not so extreme but for some sun with bolted anchors  .... Birdland

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Bill Lawry wrote: Not so extreme but .... Birdland 

Doesn't Birdland need gear on every pitch?

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,814
FrankPS wrote:

Doesn't Birdland need gear on every pitch?

Absolutely fits the bill, eh.

Edit: Not. I see - OP includes a query for sport leading. My bad.
Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66

Last pitch of Risky Business is all clips, and the entire route is phenomenal. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Noah White wrote: Unimpeachable groping is a 7 pitch sport clib

For the 8000th time, just because it's bolted doesn't make it a sport climb.

NegativeK · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

Why doesn't MP support "Trad bolted"? Or, why aren't routes that have traditionally bolted sections changed to just Trad?

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101
Marc801 C wrote:

For the 8000th time, just because it's bolted doesn't make it a sport climb.

True, but Unimpeachable is a sport climb albeit with a bizarre "tree climb" start. 

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101
John Wilder wrote:

And 30’ between bolts on the first pitch. 

You've probably done it more recently than me and I'm sure you're right. I seem to remember placing one nut on that pitch and feeling OK about it. Still, calling UG a trad climb is a bit of a stretch imo.

Edit: To actually contribute to this thread: Inti Watana
Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,245
Daniel Winder wrote: ...calling UG a trad climb is a bit of a stretch imo.

Why is that a stretch? Just because something's mostly bolted, even 95% so like Unimpeachable Groping, doesn't make it a sport climb.

However both UG and Inti Watana do fit the original poster's requirements. As does Prince of Darkness.

The problem some people (and contributors to the MP database) have lies in thinking that anything that has only bolts for protection should be classified as a sport climb. This is simply untrue. Routes like these should be listed as "trad" climbs in the database.
Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101
Josh Janes wrote:

Why is that a stretch? 

Well, when I climb a 7 pitch route and place one nut on easy terrain and clip 600 bolts the math just doesn't add up. I've noticed in RR the sport/trad line tends get blurry. It's all meaningless semantics anyway. 

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,245

First off, of course your math doesn't add up - there are not 600 bolts on UG.

Second, just because YOU placed one nut on "easy terrain" doesn't mean I might not place more than that. You're a 5.12 sport climber, so of course climbing UG without a small rack would be no big deal to you. But I would never recommend this to a sport climber whose limit is 5.10 and has never touched a piece of trad gear before. Hence, this route is a trad climb. It requires traditional skills/a margin for error to safely climb. You have that, but not every sport climber does.

Third, this is far from meaningless semantics. If you're a climber, this stuff is means something, and indeed, is worth debating.

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101
Josh Janes wrote: First off, of course your math doesn't add up - there are not 600 bolts on UG.

I was being sarcastic but c'mon man, you've climbed the route. Every climber needs to consider the adequacy of protection for themselves and I would never try to dissuade anyone from bringing supplemental gear if they think they might need it, even on a sport route. BTW, Handren's guide lists UG as a sport climb.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,245

I know you were being sarcastic with the 600 bolts comment - I only replied to it to make a joke. But when you say something like that, you almost make it sound like you thought UG was over-bolted which it is not. I know nothing about the OP's partner or ability, but I definitely wouldn't tell my friend who is new to climbing and only climbing 5.9 sport to go push his limits on UG ("Go for it - it'a a sport climb!")... But I would encourage him to get on any number of 5.10 SPORT climbs in the Black Corridor.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,245

Here's another example:

Green Tide

150' pitch. No trad gear needed - bolts protect. Sport climb?

Or This One.

You might need some gear for the first and last pitches, but that second pitch is all bolts. Sport climb?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Daniel Winder wrote:

Every climber needs to consider the adequacy of protection for themselves and I would never try to dissuade anyone from bringing supplemental gear if they think they might need it, even on a sport route.

Sure, but on a sport route I expect a reasonable quantity and reasonably spaced bolts - certainly enough to keep from hitting ledges or the ground. I certainly don't expect the possibility of a 60+' fall. And I want to know about optional trad gear (or in some areas, not so optional, where the local ethic is no bolt if there's a trad placement at that spot).
 

BTW, Handren's guide lists UG as a sport climb.

And he's rather incorrect in that assessment. In fact calling UG a sport route doesn't even agree with his definition of sport route in the book: "A route that is protected exclusively by closely spaced bolts, with a fixed anchor at the top."

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,814

Ok - I’ll try again though possibly already mentioned: Big Bad Wolf (and, again,  relatively low key in terms of difficulty).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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