Red Rock Multipitches that have fully bolted pitches
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Okay.... Hate to spray out another Red Rocks Multipitch question, hopefully this one is more specific. I will be in Red Rock with my Sport Climber friend. I lead trad up to 12s but my friend is just a sport climber. He would love to climb some MultiPitch with me so what Im curious about is finding Multipitches that are primarily trad but have some fully bolted pitches so he could get some leads in. |
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Levitation 29 (pitch 2,5,6,7 are bolted) |
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Prince of Darkness. |
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Last 2 pitches of Sour Mash are fully bolted, 10a |
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Unimpeachable groping is a 7 pitch sport clib |
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Not so extreme but for some sun with bolted anchors .... Birdland |
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Bill Lawry wrote: Not so extreme but .... Birdland Doesn't Birdland need gear on every pitch? |
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FrankPS wrote: Absolutely fits the bill, eh. Edit: Not. I see - OP includes a query for sport leading. My bad. |
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Last pitch of Risky Business is all clips, and the entire route is phenomenal. |
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Noah White wrote: Unimpeachable groping is a 7 pitch sport clib For the 8000th time, just because it's bolted doesn't make it a sport climb. |
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Why doesn't MP support "Trad bolted"? Or, why aren't routes that have traditionally bolted sections changed to just Trad? |
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Marc801 C wrote: True, but Unimpeachable is a sport climb albeit with a bizarre "tree climb" start. |
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John Wilder wrote: You've probably done it more recently than me and I'm sure you're right. I seem to remember placing one nut on that pitch and feeling OK about it. Still, calling UG a trad climb is a bit of a stretch imo. Edit: To actually contribute to this thread: Inti Watana |
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Daniel Winder wrote: ...calling UG a trad climb is a bit of a stretch imo. Why is that a stretch? Just because something's mostly bolted, even 95% so like Unimpeachable Groping, doesn't make it a sport climb. However both UG and Inti Watana do fit the original poster's requirements. As does Prince of Darkness.The problem some people (and contributors to the MP database) have lies in thinking that anything that has only bolts for protection should be classified as a sport climb. This is simply untrue. Routes like these should be listed as "trad" climbs in the database. |
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Josh Janes wrote: Well, when I climb a 7 pitch route and place one nut on easy terrain and clip 600 bolts the math just doesn't add up. I've noticed in RR the sport/trad line tends get blurry. It's all meaningless semantics anyway. |
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First off, of course your math doesn't add up - there are not 600 bolts on UG. |
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Josh Janes wrote: First off, of course your math doesn't add up - there are not 600 bolts on UG. I was being sarcastic but c'mon man, you've climbed the route. Every climber needs to consider the adequacy of protection for themselves and I would never try to dissuade anyone from bringing supplemental gear if they think they might need it, even on a sport route. BTW, Handren's guide lists UG as a sport climb. |
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I know you were being sarcastic with the 600 bolts comment - I only replied to it to make a joke. But when you say something like that, you almost make it sound like you thought UG was over-bolted which it is not. I know nothing about the OP's partner or ability, but I definitely wouldn't tell my friend who is new to climbing and only climbing 5.9 sport to go push his limits on UG ("Go for it - it'a a sport climb!")... But I would encourage him to get on any number of 5.10 SPORT climbs in the Black Corridor. |
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Here's another example: |
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Daniel Winder wrote:Sure, but on a sport route I expect a reasonable quantity and reasonably spaced bolts - certainly enough to keep from hitting ledges or the ground. I certainly don't expect the possibility of a 60+' fall. And I want to know about optional trad gear (or in some areas, not so optional, where the local ethic is no bolt if there's a trad placement at that spot).
And he's rather incorrect in that assessment. In fact calling UG a sport route doesn't even agree with his definition of sport route in the book: "A route that is protected exclusively by closely spaced bolts, with a fixed anchor at the top." |
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Ok - I’ll try again though possibly already mentioned: Big Bad Wolf (and, again, relatively low key in terms of difficulty). |